This is my step daughters 2015 car that was purchased from Texas via carvana and it has been residing in San Luis Obispo for the last 2 years. First time i noticed something strange was i was not able to remove the aluminum wheel from the hub when it had a flat. Tire shop was able to remove the wheel (i wasn't present) so unsure if additional tools were needed. There seems to be known issues posted between steel hubs and aluminum wheels sticking. Areas of oxidation/slight rust observed: Lower nut on door jambs Lower Control Arm connections to strut Inverter area Other engine areas: hose clamps Nut on hood to hood latch. Calipers Should i be concerned with this?
If rust gets to the frame then its structure will be compromised. Carvana has a 7 day money back guarantee refund policy, look into that if it’s still within the time frame. If not, I’d still find a way to get my money back in full.
From your pictures, I'd say you have no worries. That's very minor. I found the rear suspension components the most rust prone, in particular at the welds, and nuts/bolts. Brushed on boiled linseed oil worked wonders for me. For the stuck-on wheels: when they're off, brush the loose rust off the hub, then apply a very thin coat of anti-seize compound. An old toothbrush makes a good applicator. When I've got a stuck wheel in my garage, with the wheel just clear of the slab, set a timber block against the inside face, leave one lug nut on, loose, at 12 o'clock, then swing a sledge hammer into the timber blocking. With a moderate smack it will break loose. If you're at side of road, same scenario, install all lug nuts loosely, then lower the car down. That'll likely break it loose. If not, try bouncing that corner. That should do it, and if not: try driving it back and forth a foot or two. If that doesn't work, shoot it!
It's a car. Rust happens. None of that looks out of the ordinary. My usual wheel-off trick now is to stick a vinyl-dipped plier handle in through the wheel spokes and pry against the caliper bracket. Much less drama than other methods I had used before. Is there a big steel "skid plate" over the top of that inverter? When did that start? My 2010 doesn't have one.
If rust freezes a wheel on a hub and you're stuck on the side of the road, use the spare as a hammer to knock the flat off. If you're worried this was a flood car? Check the rails and springs under the front seats. Automakers typically use cheap untreated steel there, so swiping a clean rag would bring back a lot of orange powdered rust. Your pictures don't strike me as those of a flood car, more like one that was in a humid coastal environment.
I'd research the "Car Fox" to see where the car was previously registered. That's a lot or corrosion for a 2015. It has either lived on the seacoast or the rust belt for a while. I'd also look at the interior, especially on the bare metal parts under the dashboard and under the seats. If there is any corrosion there, the car might have been under water or in some sort of flood. The electrical connectors may be another giveaway.
Pitting/white corrosion on aluminum parts is OK, will not result in failure of the parts. Rust on steel hose clamps, bolts, suspension components will only get worse. But where you are it should be minimal and really not an issue. Be glad you don't live where they salt roads in the winter. Toyotas are rust buckets here in 10 years. If you are concerned, buy a spray can of Fluid Film. Spray it on any visible rust and it will greatly slow down the corrosion. You don't need it on the aluminum parts. You can also spray parts that still look OK and they will remain rust free.
My less than two years old car driven on notorious salt belt looks worse than yours. At your location, I would not worry about it. If you are worried, apply some rust protection spray DIY.
Kinda topical, there's some research into a molecular "cage" that can catch salt molecules in water. One big concern is road salt salinating fresh water bodies. Was listening on CBC radio, and the mentioned it could even be used as a rust-proofing coating on steel. Convervatively: 20 years down the road. One google result: Building a better salt trap: Scientists synthesize a molecular 'cage' to trap chloride
I am not much of a chemist, but 20 years down the road, they may have something stronger than steel that does not oxidize? Or I guess, they already have them, but it cost too much. I have a >30 years old carbon steel knife that has developed very nice patina which effectively prevents rusting. I wonder why don't all other steels reacts like that?
On the radio, they said something along the lines of "we say 20 years, just to be cautious, but with so much at stake we will try to speed that up". I think their main focus is rising salt levels in lakes and rivers. Appreciate I'm getting off OP's topic too, sorry.
Is that a big steel skid-plate-like-thing over the top of that inverter? When did that start? There isn't one on my 2010.
You should the rust on every bolt in my engine from living in the rust belt. Salt spray is hell on cars.
