How to flash a new calibration file update to the ECM (PCM)

i thought only the dealer could do that. maybe tech stream?

 

Problems of attempting to do it yourself:
* Is the file you got from the INTERNET legitimate? You would be very BRAVE to trust such a file, for something so critical.
* Will the hacked copy of Techstream be able to perform the flash?
* If the flashing gets messed up, you will likely have a vehicle in WORSE shape than before. "Do you feel lucky?" (DirtyHarry)
* Is the $100-$300 guestimated labor cost worth all this risk?

Be "pound wise, penny foolish."
Pay the Toyota dealer diagnostic fee ($90-$150) to determine if your car needs this. If the Toyota dealers screws-up the flashing, they are on the hook for the subsequent repairs. The diagnostic fee would get applied to the total repair bill, should you choose to have the dealer perform the service. Call various Toyota dealers to see how much they charge. Search various Toyota dealer websites for service discount coupons; nearly all Toyota dealers accept other Toyota dealers discount parts/service coupons. Look into AAA, AmEx, and Costco, Toyota dealer discount service coupons.

Since the Vehicle is OUT of Emissions Warranty, you could always ask Corporate Toyota for Good Will gesture: maybe Toyota will pay for this or cover a percentage of the final bill. Good Will gesture requires a diagnosis by a Toyota dealer. If the vehicle has seen a lot of paid service, at a Toyota dealership, by you or previous owners, you stand a better chance of Toyota extending Good will. However, they can still say NO.

 

My approach sounds like this: "Hello, Toyota dealer? I'm looking at this TSB for a P0125 code I'm getting, that suggests to update my 2005 ECM to calibration 34705400. When can you fit me in?"

In theory, you can do it yourself. If you sign in at techinfo at the professional/diagnostic rate ($65 for a two-day period, rather than the standard $20), you'll be able to download the calibration file and get a license key that unlocks the flash functions in Techstream.

However....

Most of us regular mortals using Techstream are using it with cheap dongles (Mini VCI or VxDIAG or Tactrix Openport, etc.), and when we get random "lost communication with vehicle" errors in the middles of things, we shrug and say "well, if I wanted glitch-free operation I could have spent $500 on the dongle Toyota uses."

But knowing that a glitch in the middle of a reflash leaves my car a brick, and my porch is brick so I've got plenty of those but just the one car, makes me quite content to leave that particular operation to the dealer.

If you really do want to try it yourself, take careful heed of all the steps in that second TSB you linked. You will see that all of them are aimed at making sure nothing surprising can happen during the reflash to brick your car. Making sure the GR8 power supply is attached to the battery, the battery is charged, all accessories are off, etc. I think that isn't even the most recent of the TSBs describing the process. They keep issuing new ones with longer checklists for avoiding more surprises. (I think one of the threads here about the E0E / F0R recalls had a link to a more recent one.) Like, making sure the brake pump had just run before starting, so it's less likely to decide to run during the reflash. That TSB also specified a couple of fuses to just pull before starting. The last time I took my car for a reflash, I made sure I pulled the fuse for my add-on air compressor, since otherwise they wouldn't have known about it and it might have kicked on during the flash.

If you go to the dealer, you can save them some time if the hatch area is empty, since they'll need to take out the deck boards to attach the GR8 cables to your battery.

Also, to be completely kosher, the reflash should be finished up with an Authorized Modification Label added under the hood to indicate what new calibration was applied and when, and those only come in packs of 25, and I bet Toyota won't sell them to you.

 

You can use a Drewtech MongoosePro cable or a Cardaq Plus 3 to link the pc to the vehicle. You also need a clean, stable power supply to maintain system voltage at 13.5v.

If you are only flashing a single vehicle, having the dealer do it is the most cost effective method. Or you can rent the drewtech rap2:

http://drewtech.com/pdf/sell%20sheets/2018_RAP2_Sell_Sheet_EMAIL.pdf

 

Never heard this one discussed here.
Why bother?
In other words, why do you have to idle for so long? and why does it matter to have the code, just ignore it.

 

With a check engine light on, he cannot pass emissions inspection.

 

I am not sure the tarheels have inspections, but if so the owner could clear the code and take it in code-free, assuming it is possible to operate the car in a manner to avoid getting the code. However. I did this once and you have to be careful to run the car a while before you take it in, because they know if there has been enough run time for the codes to be reset after clearing.

 

all the best!

 

Hehe. Yes, it's a respectable measure of empowerment just to know that you're making your own choice to delegate something and you're doing it knowledgeably for reasons of practicality.

 

Also consider the P0125 can be caused by cooling system, coolant temperature sensor, and/or thermostat issues

 

Even the labor time on the TSB is only valid for warranty repairs. The labor time charged for customer pay repairs is at the technician’s discretion.

 

Did you find an indy shop to do it for you? What time did they charge?

I could almost see it taking .9 if somebody comes in with the back all full of stuff and they have to dig it out to get to the battery.

 

I take it you checked the version shown in Techstream, and it's the recommended one now?