Inverter coolant and engine coolant flowing through the same radiator?

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Separate loops.

Be sure to check the under the radiator cap, as the coolant overflow container can offer a false sense of radiator liquid level.

Have you already fixed the lower radiator hose leak?

 

Looks like one radiator, but it's sectioned. The loops stay separate.

 

I am not aware that the inverter coolant system has a valve. The engine coolant system has a coolant valve which routes coolant to the coolant heat recovery system canister and to the cabin heater core.

How about providing some sharp photos. Also is it possible that both of these leaks relate to the engine coolant loop?

 

I suggest you replace the leaking hose and hose clamps with new parts. Make sure the hose spout at the radiator is clean.

 

Engine coolant and inverter coolant are in the same radiator but 2 different containers in that same rad. Engine is on the top of the rsad and inverter coolant is on the bottom.

Engine coolant loop consists of the radiator, the 3 way valve, the engine water pump and the chrs thermos & pump system.

The inverter has no valves just the white plastic reservoir and the inverter coolant pump that pumps inverter coolant through a huge cross section of aluminum heatsink under the inverter then its routed into the transmission for transmission cooling then routed through the lower rad.

 

As far as the leak have never seen those oem style compression clamps leak not ever.
They are superior to the old screw type clamps. The fact that there rusted may be an issue but the leak is probably coming from a leaking valve which is common. So don’t bother with the clamps only just replace the valve and the clamps.

 

I've read too: screw style clamps create a "point load", where the screw mechanism is, can lead to cracking of plastic spigots.

 

Now you can see definitively: ONE radiator, TWO independent cooling systems (engine and inverter).

 

Siamese twins and dub it done?

 

3-way coolant control valve is part of the engine cooling loop. You just tried to purge air from the inverter loop unnecessarily.

I recommend you revisit your bleeding method. Did you perform these steps:

Car at an incline or have front of car on jacks.
Engine should have been put into Inspection Mode (Read Post #5).
CHRS (Coolant Heat Recovery Storage) pump should have been activated in short incremental bursts of time, as needed, to help purge air.
Heater on HIGH.
Squeeze the radiator hoses to try and force any air to the radiator.
Monitor and top off the radiator, for a few days, after the engine/coolant has cooled overnight, as it takes time for the air to work itself out. Top off radiator=remove radiator cap and check/add Toyota SLLC if needed. Radiator overflow bottle is assumed to be at Full level.
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READ in ENTIRETY to LEARN how to bleed engine coolant loop: How to replace engine coolant pump and thermostat | PriusChat

PAY ATTENTION to posts #22 and #42 as well as the surrounding discussion in the following thread discusses how to change engine coolant. Changing engine coolant | Page 2 | PriusChat

 

The steeper the angle the better. Thus the front of car on jackstands, to help any bubbles get to the radiator quickly/easily. For you, should likely be fine w/ steep driveway.

You can activate the CHRS pump as many times as you feel necessary: 5xs for 10sec/20sec/30sec, 10xs for 10sec/20sec/30sec, etc. Duration of each running of CHRS pump is your call; personally I would not exceed 45sec, since you will be force activating it 5xs, 10xs, etc. Number of times you force activate the CHRS pump is your call too.

Monitor and top off radiator will be done over the course of days (one week minimum). Engine/Radiator MUST BE COLD! Thus the recommendation to check in morning, after car has sat overnight. The longer it has sat, the better.

EDIT: Do NOT EXCEED 30sec duration, of force activation, of the CHRS pump. Referenced the repair manual, and the normal activation duration of the CHRS pump by the car is for 30sec.