<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Herb @ Aug 28 2006, 07:44 AM) [snapback]310473[/snapback]</div> There aren't really ANY that are nearby. This one's about 45 miles south. There's another about 70 miles NE and another about 55 miles SW. This service department seems like the most reliable. Like I said, I haven't actually talked to the tech yet. The tech is ALWAYS very eager to try and help me with any problems and takes the time to talk to me before he submits his completed paperwork to the service manager. He even tried to see if he could find the service menu that has the "override" button on it. (If there's a way to get to it, the techs don't know it BTW) The battery thing IS very strange. The tech thought so as well. He looked pretty extensively for any sort of parasitic draw on the battery and didn't find one. I DO have the EV switch and the VAIS SLI for my iPod but these things (according to the tech) shouldn't have caused the battery to die. I guess if the final answer the tech gives doesn't make sense I'll HAVE to look elsewhere! I'll know more later today...
Ok... so the service manager MUST have been confused... As best the tech can tell, one of the terminals was loose on the 12v battery and would cause this intermittant problem... because after tightening the terminals, they have yet to have any issues. Seems like such a simple thing. Hope this can help someone in the future-- if the car slips out of ready out of ready mode-- check your 12v battery connection and make sure it's tight!
indeed, there are a *whole bunch* of strange things that happen when the 12v is low or when there's a bad connection. there's one more to add to the list. thanks for the follow up.
For some added closure, I'm attaching the actual invoice with this one. Looks like there originally might HAVE been some DTC's. The tech said that it was spitting out a BUNCH of codes that didn't make sense (prior to him tightening the terminal on the battery) like low voltage to the VSC system, and some others. So far, so good... I'm guessing it MUST have fixed! [attachmentid=4695]
My 2006 Prius has been having the same problems as described above. We took it to the Toyota Dealership Service Dept (5 star award winning service). The first time they replaced the brake switch just in case. The problem reoccurred so we had to have it towed to the dealership again. That time the technician could not get it to "fail to start." They held it overnight and still couldn't get the problem to reooccur. They checked the 12 volt battery to see if it was low. It was fine. The technician is puzzled and I can't find solutions online yet because evidently this is not a common problem. We have three Prius (including new Plug-in), so we are experienced at putting our foot on the brake and starting the car. We need help from anyone who has diagnosed this issue. I video taped the problem this time to take to the dealership. Here's what happens. When I push the brake and then push the power button. The clock flashes and changes time. The warning lights all light up on the display. The power light is "red" and there is no ready light on the display. When I push the power button again, the power light turns green and some of the display (P/N/D/R/B transmission lights and the navigation screen) remains on, and it won't release the FOB. The warning light on the display states "Caution: There is a problem with the transmition P lock system. Park the car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." So . . . the onboard computer recognizes that the transmission is not engaged. Sometimes, the car will start again after a 10 to 15 minute delay. When we released the emergency brake, it squeaked as if it hadn't been released. The GPS "destinations" now is stuck on a different region of the country and will not allow us to return to our region, and the upper 1/3 of the screen is black. Sometimes, we can't shift into "P"ark. This last time we could not get the car to turn off at all (no engine sounds, just display on the dash). Fortunately, it happened in the garage. We returned several times to try again, no luck. Finally, the battery drained, and we were able to remove the FOB key. We are having it towed this morning. Any ideas? My thoughts right now are to replace the 12 volt battery, verify tight cables, and to reboot the onboard computer and the GPS system.
Teri, those are classic symptoms of a worn out 12v battery. If you use the search feature, there is a posted testing procedure on PriusChat. For some reason, most dealerships cannot or do not properly test the 12v. If you still have the original in your 2006, I would change it before going any further. Joe
+ 1000 Teri, we see so many reports like that here, and so many cases where the 12V battery is diagnosed as good but is in fact the problem. Seriously, you almost certainly just need a new 12V battery.
BTW Teri. You can conduct your own 12V battery test real easy (using the Priuses own onboard computer). See this link :Weird stuff happening? MPGs dropping? Test The Battery | PriusChat , and report the voltages measured here.
Teri, FWIW, a fully charged AGM type battery (what goes in your Prius) will measure the following if you run the test that is linked above. Auxilliary Mode: 12.6 Volts or higher Ignition On Mode: 12.4 Volts or higher Ready Mode: 13.8 to 14.2 Volts Ron