2010 oil burning fix

B100 when you say in europe it only means netherlands not a whole europe because in united kingdom we have poor oil but I agree with you netherland petrol is much better. Therefore I always use shell vpower premium petrol for prius.

 

there's no fix for this except to replace your short block. it's a defect. the piston bores expand and oil leaks around the valves.

 

LOL, you don't know how ICE works, do you?

 

Give Me a break.....please! .......

 

I did a long piston soak with an ounce of seafoam in each cyl and plugs lightly seated on a 2011 honda crv that burnt oil (known issue and free fix in usa but not Canada =( apparently the small oil drain holes in pistons are prone to clogging with carbon like on the 3rd gen prius) after 4 days i checked the cylinders and the seafoam had drained into the crank i then installed the sparkplugs and went for a brisk drive , changed the oil and no noticeable oil burning in 1000 kms .. so its worth a try.

 

Another update, at ~1700mi the oil looks used but not black and I'm down a little more than a quart. I added a quart of 10w30 to make up the loss. I still feel pretty good at it being at 110k and using oil but still running strong.

 

With ~2800mi I'm half way on the oil stick which means .8 quarts which is basically no change in my book as far as oil usage. Oil still looks used but not black. I'm putting in more 10w30 to fill it back up. I think it's possible thicker oil may help a little. Oil still looks really good after the treatment but any change in usage with 10w30 added is negligible at this point.

 

I have added 2 quarts of 10w30 synthetic since I have been tracking and I'm back at full now. So what was once about 1k a quart has turned into ~2 quarts for 3200mi after a recent road trip. The engine has been pretty smooth for 111k now and I have no complaints about the seafoam or using heavier weight oil. Averaging about the same mpg but we are going into the summer heat.

 

I've noticed that with ours, consumption increases significantly at highway speeds.

 

I don't have much of an oil consumption issue to speak of, but I am currently 2500 miles into an OCI with an engine oil which advertises to be specifically formulated to help reduce oil consumption related to piston deposits.

valvoline premium blue restore

"Can potentially reduce lubricating oil consumption rates on engines outside of the warranty or extended coverage period by removing carbon deposits from pistons, piston ring lands and other engine components. The dissolved carbon enables the first and second piston rings to move freely restoring oil control."

it appears that Cummins ISX engines are having quite the problems with oil consumption which they've determined to be at least partially related to carbon buildup on pistons and rings and this oil is the prescribed fix, er, well the fix you try before a teardown/re-ring job.

Sounds similar enough to what we've seen anecdotally on the 2zr-fxe, particularly coupled with the numerous examples of carbon fouling in the EGR circuit.

Once I finish the prescribed 5k mile interval with this oil, I'm going to do the full IM/EGR/EGRCooler cleaning and then switch to an ACEA C1 rated oil for the low SAPS. I have a theory that along with moving the EGR draw port to post-catalyst in the Gen 4's, Toyota should also be or have been speccing 'cleaner' oils more inline with the ACEA C series because the EGR cooler is acting like an exhaust aftertreatment device, not unlike a DPF or GPF in our case.

 

I'm surprised Cummins is not getting on the 'Piston Soak' band wagon to help with oil consumption due to carbon buildup in the oil control rings and grooves.

Thanks for the oil talk!
I found this so far: ACEA Engine Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org
But there is no list of approved oils, or a description of SAPS.

I totally agree with your theory on the EGR cooler catching crud, especially for slow speed/tip toe drivers and prii with high oil consumption.

 

Curious if you've been able to locate this product for under $70 ?

 

Sadly no, you gotta pay the piper, it’s officially licensed by Cummins and only available at Cummins dealers / service centers or Ryder fleet products which is where I got it. The price is hard to swallow considering how cheap the 5 quart bottles of Mobil1 are at Walmart, but not terribly out of line with boutique brands sold by the quart bottle.

 

Low SAPS

• If you have a modern turbodiesel car that has a diesel particulate filter (DPF) in the exhaust then you must use low SAPS oil.
• SAPS stands for 'Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous, Sulphur' and it's often referred to as simply low ash oil.
• In Europe, according to the ACEA, low ash oil is labelled as C1 (0.5% ash), C2 (0.8% ash - better suited to higher performance engines) and C3. In America there's CJ-4.
• So an engine oil labelled 5W30 C1, C2 or C3 is a 5w30 grade oil suitable for cars fitted with DPF’s. If your car has a DPF be sure to check if C1, C2 or C3 specification oil is required.

Obviously I know we aren’t driving turbo diesels nor have DPFs but I do believe our engines, and specifically the EGR circuit and catalytic converters May benefit from low saps oils. Fortunately the Mobil1 0w-20 that I and many other prii owners are using is already at 0.8 for sulphated ash, but I’m not sure what the TGMO 0w-20 is. Still I’m looking for something even cleaner which is proving to be hard to find in the USA since the ACEA specs are Euro and the common specs in the US have higher SAPS tolerances pretty much across the board. There’s a comparison tool on the Lubrizol site that is helpful for comparing the ratings, like API SN versus ACEA C1 for example.

 

I don't know the specs of Valvoline Premium Blue Restore, but it's my understanding that most diesel oils have traditionally had a high zinc content because it's a good extreme pressure lubricant. Which is great for valve tappets and other areas, but creates problems with catalytic converters. Not a problem for traditional diesel engines since they weren't equipped with catalytic converters.

Maybe this isn't an issue with the cleaner modern diesels... do they have catalytic converters?

 

The indeed do. The European ACEA C specifications (C1-C5, C6 forthcoming ) are specifically meant for catalyst equipped vehicles, it's what the C stands for in fact.

There haven't been any VOA's done on the Valvoline restore oil that I could find, but the bottle says that it has same or similar additive pack to what the API CJ-4 formulation of Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme, which I saw a UOA for with approx 1400ppm zinc, which isn't crazy and when I look at the verbiage behind the API CJ-4 spec it says:

"New emission standards for heavy-duty engines will be phased in between 2007 and 2010. Engines meeting these new standards will be equipped with advanced emission control technologies, including diesel particulate filters (DPF) and in most cases exhaust gas recirculation (EGR). The new API CJ-4 performance category was developed to address both the unique needs of these new engines and to protect older engines while enhancing the life of the emission control system as required for regulatory compliance."

Not a sure thing I know, but I feel quite comfortable to run it in my car. Also I notice that there are oils out there that are API CJ-4 and SN rated, SN (or SN+ or SN Resource Conserving) being what TGMO and many other 0w-20's are rated at, again I don't know if this an across the board equivalence, but seems to me that at least I know a CJ-4 oil isn't automatically a bad choice for our cars.

Mine seems quite happy at the moment, in spite of the thicker 10w-30 viscosity I'm not seeing any drop in gas mileage that can't be accounted for or cancelled out by adjusting the nut behind the wheel, and in truth I'm currently experiencing some of the best mileage my Prius has returned but I am driving more conservatively these last couple tankfulls. Again lending credence to the idea that the notion of MPG gains/losses based on oil viscosities are probably in the noise of everyday driving demands/conditions changes.

 

10W30 used to be the go-to oil.

 

Last update, Essentially 1k per quart still even with 10w30 full synthetic high mileage. We either idle or drive on the highway but we believe it doesn't really matter at this point. No check engine lights and no other issues we will drive it until it doesn't want to drive any more.

 

So back to where it was? What's the miles now?

See it was 107K in February.

 

It wouldn't hurt to try BG EPR just before your next oil change. Some members have said it really worked well for them, I plan on doing it at my next one.