2nd DIY Inverter coolant pump replacement: No inverter touched

This is for my Gen 3 2011.

Before I write the short and easy way I did this, I need help.

Can some one confirm where the two hoses from the reservoir (Top and Bottom) go to???

I need that for the write up as well.

There is a long one that wraps around to the front and short one that attaches to the inverter.
I got them mixed up in my original attempt to do this.

I can not find clear pictures anywhere on-line.
Thank you so much in advance.

 

NOTE: THE DIY - PROCEDURE I PROMISED Part 1:

This procedure takes the removal of six 10mm screws and two hoses. The plastic clips from the shield don't count in my book.

I live in the very salty environment as you can see by the rust. I have 155K but the cold and rust have done a number on my pump.

I got the P0A93 code and POC73 code on my scan guage. (NOTE: The problem that cuased these codes is the coolant all leaked out.)

The car showed a danger triangle and it said OVER HEAT. Next while still running the car went into limp mode. The gas peddle was not fully responsive. I would press it but it would not move faster. The car ran but not very good and the mph on the dash did not feel like it was the correct speed. Very strange feeling. The dash image where the car battery and electric motor and arrows showing energy flow STOPPED working. No regenerative No engine moving arrows. The car did keep running.

Got to work and saw no coolant in the reservoir. Bone dry.

Next I chose to replace the pump and rusted spring clips on most hoses.

Remove the under car shield look up and remove the connector. I used a screwdriver to push the connector and press the tab with the other hand. Here I show the connector that you need to press remove but you can't see the TAB from the bottom. Small hands will help. (no jokes from the peanut gallery please.)
Here is the @#$%% of a connect that is hard to remove.



Look at the next picture to see the tight spot from below.
If you get the connector off you can move on to do the rest.
Next, losen but do not remove the two 10mm screws in the red circles. See image.
That is because you also want to loosen the top third screw in yellow from above or you will have a tough time getting traction to turn the screw from above.


Move to the top next.
We remove 3 inverter hold down screws to make room to reach the 3rd top pump screw with a socket.
We only move the inverter back to use a long extension socket with a 10mm,
Move/push it 2 inches back toward the coolant tank. I used a piece of wood 2" wide.


Go back to the bottom after you loosen the top pump screw.

Now get ready to remove the two bottom screws but be ready to catch a bracket that holds the 2 threaded nuts together. Here it is removed.


Be ready to catch the bracket that is attached to these screws.

 

Part 2:
Ok now remove the bottom hose of the Coolant Reservoir, it's the long one that wraps around to the front of the inverter down to the pump.

HERE IS THE TRICK,
Bend the corner of the bracket to make room to move the pump past the radiator hose. Here is a picture of it bent.


Now just pull the pump out and it will hang under the car like this with one side of the hoses disconnected,

Follow the exact postion of the hoses when you connect the new pump. There are paint marks on the hoses.
Old and new pump ready for swap.


Next reverse all steps.
I filled the coolant and drove the car. So far that is all I have done and I hear the noise again from the car when the ICE shuts down. Little gurggling and high pitch noise. YAY

6 screws and two hoses. That is it. Thank goodness no inverter wires were disconnected or harmed during this operation.

Oh yea, special Thank You to AzWxGuy who gave me the correct hose location that I messed up.

 

From the bottom of the car looking up I used one hand to hold down, postion the bracket for the screw and a second hand to start and thread by hand to get the bolt started. Very tight spot, I know.