264,000 miles, changing the timing chain and everything else involved.

A blinking CEL is indicative of a serious misfire. This is usually a spark plug issue. You may want to check your codes before digging in too deep. I've had 2 Gen2s with ~290k each and they never had timing chains touched. Not saying the problem isn't the timing chain/tensioner, but it's best to check before tearing too deep into the engine.

 

I agree that it makes great sense to understand what the logged DTC are before you start replacing parts.

How long will the engine last? That is dependent upon the extent to which the engine was abused by prior owners, allowing the oil level to drop excessively, not changing oil at 5K mile intervals etc. Certainly at 264K miles on the odometer, any system might fail tomorrow, however any reasonable person would say that the car has already delivered an exceptionally long service life to get you to this point.

It is possible that the loose timing chain is due to the tensioner only and that the chain itself might be OK.

Do not underestimate how difficult it is to access that area of the engine while it remains in the car.

If you take too long on this project, the traction battery may fail due to non-use. Then you will have another problem to deal with.

 

This was my experience with a Gen 3, so the Gen 2 may differ slightly.

The HG failed at 213k. The timing chain was loose, but still tight enough that it could not jump on the gear. The tensioner was likely between two slots, or the lack of oil pressure caused the slack.

The car was apart for three weeks, and I have been driving it since July with no HV battery issues. I believe that even though the battery shows one or two bars, there is likely a reserve capacity, or a slight “no draw recovery” that occurs on an extended period of non use.

Trying to do a head gasket and/or timing chain with the ICE in the car is a challenge, but can be done. There are videos on YouTube showing that it can be. However, with the proper tools, the ICE can be removed out the top in a couple of hours. I don’t see any major obvious reason a Gen 2 would not be similar. In reality, the exhaust manifold, bellhousing bolts, coolant hoses, and passenger motor mount are the only things holding the ICE in.

 

If you were going to remove the engine wouldn’t it be better to just replace the engine with a lower mileage replacement?

 

Every Gen 3 engine out there in the used market is a) overpriced with lunar mileage, b) already suffering from a bad head gasket, or c) a core needing overhaul.

I rebuilt my Gen 3 head with new seals, and the valves scavenged from the head of the low mileage Gen 4 engine I bought to replace mine.

My Gen 3/4 Frankenstein now has about 7500 miles since install, or 13,500 total miles. No issues since install.

 

You can’t put a gen 3 engine in a gen 2. I meant a newer than 2004 1.5L with less miles. Could be as new as 2009.

 

probably just reading along on a phone, lost track of the forum.

 

Just passing on my experiences. Not meaning to imply putting a Gen 3 engine in a Gen 2. LoL.

Maybe someone could try putting a C engine in one?? LoL

 

After all, until July last year, it was thought to be impossible to use a Gen 4 engine in a Gen 3 car. I used the Gen 4 short block with a Gen 3 head, and @Ragingfit has put two complete Gen 4 engines in. One Prius and one V.

 

Why change the timing change?

If a spark plug well has oil in it the valve cover gasket must be replaced as that oil will short out the cop causing misfire. Spark plug well must be clean and dry any oil in it is bad. Because you cannot know how bad it’s leaking or track it’s condition Without pulling the cop out.

Rolling misfires usually indicate a blown engine especially in a Prius where so many people run there engines out of oil because no one checks there engine oil correctly or periodically anymore. High mileage car requires hyper maintenance.

One good low oil event that throws the RTOD usually kills the motors. The RTOD is thrown with zero oil pressure. See lots and lots of those on this site.

 

Toyota coolant is orange, not clear or yellow. It is highly recommended to use Toyota orange coolant in this engine. Inverter takes the same stuff, but that's a different topic.

 

In my car, the SLLC is pink.

 

Mine too.

 

Yep stock coolant for both the inverter and the engine coolant is Toyota SLLC and it’s pink.