Had a 2006 come in with the typical HV replacement codes including P0A80 and P3015 the owner bought a used HV from a salvage yard when I recieved the used unit half the case was taken apart and I had to take cover bolts and nuts off the old battery and put them on it. Now here is where it gets interesting the car cranks and shows charge on the HV but after driving the car it goes into limp mode sputters and accelerates then slows down can't get no kind of steady acceleration and had to limp the car back with the emergency flashers on. Here's the new codes list P3016 P3030 P0A80 P0A78 P0AC0 P3015 P0301 Now take into consideration the car was drivable before this fiasco now it's a dead stick I'm figuring I'm going to have to pull the HV again and check the harness and all connections.
I'm a bit unclear about when it was driveable. They drove it to your shop with it half taken apart, right? And at that time it was perfect with no codes? That would be hard to believe if they went any distance. P3015 and P3016 says portions of the battery is damaged or has bad wiring. (As well as the P0A80) Could also have damage or issues with the battery ECU or current sensor if I'm remembering P0AC0 correctly. You've got some work to do. Feel free to call me if you want to talk.
The owner of the car dropped the car off driving it with the original HV battery and 2 codes P0A80 and P3015 then he purchased and brought me the other used salvaged HV battery the car could be cleared and drove previously but now with this salvaged battery its pulling all those codes. I'm guessing it's a faulty harness issue where the salvage yard banged it around
"...car could be cleared and drove..." How long? For a day? A week? A month? If it was a short time, then it sounds like the other salvaged battery is junk. It has bad modules. Or bad wiring. Or a bad computer. Or all of the above.
With the previous battery it would be drivable after clearing the codes while driving it the triangle and check engine would come on the car could drive till you shut it off then you would have to clear the codes again to start it. But with the previous battery it never had all these codes
The old battery would only drive around 2 miles before it would throw the lights on it would allow you to keep driving it until you cut the car off then it would not restart until you cleared the codes
Sounds like the battery, wiring, or computer is damaged on both packs. The customer is driving with a damaged part in their car. The car will act unpredictably until fixed. The car could be damaged even more if it keeps being driven with a bad pack. Time to figure out what is wrong with the packs if you want to fix them. It will take several hours of diagnostic time, parts ordering, dismantling, reassembling, testing, etc (Or throw in the towel and spend the big bucks for a NEW battery pack?)
I'd be happy to chat. If you have rebuilt them, then you'll be able to figure it out. Methodically go through it. If you have a free basic diagnostic tools it helps. If you have some chargers it helps. Still got to spend the time and figure out how much to charge the customer. So hard if they are looking for a cheap fix.
They always look for cheap fix that's why he went to a Salvage yard and paid 600 for this one with no warranty instead of me ordering one
Testing new and used parts before installation is generally a smart idea, unless the customer is paying for every turn of your wrench Someone must be loving that salvage yards business model
but to be honest I've had good luck with salvage yard traction batteries but I'm also the one who removed them Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
He basically spent almost 1/2 the price of a new battery. Battery - 2004-2009 Toyota Prius (G9510-47031) | Tracy Toyota
I concur and without a warranty his ideology of this was to save money but in the long run I'll be either rebuilding this one from both batteries or he'll be buying another....... also guys I changed one the other night that the owners son had been playing with do not ever put the car in drive and brake torque the engine to charge the traction battery
Your statement and picture do no correlate. Charging the battery via engine is normal. Exploding modules is not normal. Two footing a force charge is no different than normal driving operation.
If my post is not valid let me validate further the car this battery came from was already throwing codes for faulty traction battery as well as the fan not working due to dog hair and trash meaning it was already charging incorrectly and not cooling the cells also you can burn up your mg2 stator charging the traction battery in this method the best way is in park charging itself. I'm open for correction on this matter by all means I love the discussion Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
This is why a damaged battery shouldn't be driven on for a long time. It's the battery that has already thrown codes and then kept in service that makes it an issue. Not the act of force charging itself. This can happen to a poorly battery just decelerating down an off ramp
I'm thinking the next wrecked prius I get for the motor and cvt if the battery is not throwing codes I may experiment with the theory or I could always build one for the theory I have enough spare parts Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
No experimentation is needed. When the cell is dead it gets very hot as current passes through it. When a pack is dead and you/customer then clear the codes the car thinks all is well and sends 120A through the pack. Dead cell gets hot, it vents. In the prismatics that vent ontop doesn't really do anything as it is meant for normal venting which never happens. For catastrophic venting it isn't enough. It is usually enough that it is the tops that explode, not the side or bottoms since that's where the pressure relief is. It is like poking a small hole in a pie. Now you know where the pie filling is going to come out. This is a problem as old as NiMH batteries and why when the car tells you there is a problem, it is time to start fixing the problem. You can usually continue driving for a few weeks or months but as the pack gets worse and worse and the codes are continually cleared, this type of failure is more and more common.