Fitting mobility 12volt AGM battery.

Allowing a battery to run down does not constitute failure. Also, the fact that battery can be charged and holds a charge would make it highly improbable that the reseller/manufacture will judge it defective. I think Jen's evaluation is correct.

I don't consider 4 years a longtime, in fact, I consider it premature failure. Even Milkman acknowledges this by using the word "only". Given that the warranty is only one year on this battery, you would be hard pressed to convince this manufacturer of that.

It is not surprising that it has failed though, as this battery is 10 Ah under-rated.

 

apparently, you did not read all of her posts

 

I actually did. I don't comment unless I do. Not everything is stated explicitly and sometimes you need to read between the lines.

I did forget to mention that a trickle charger is not adequate for recharging a flat battery. They are, by design, to keep a full battery full.

 

what i see is a battery in constant need of charging

 

If that is the case, then that would add weight to your conclusion.

 

UPDATE: I had an extra 12v regular car battery and connected it to the battery cable in the Prius and left it connected till my new battery came. New battery arrived so I removed the extra battery and jumper cables, remove the old 12v 12350 AGM battery from the car and installed the new 12v 12350 battery and hooked up the cables and the left turn signal lit up, not blinking, left signal arrow lit up, same problem as before. About three or four years ago, I installed a Curt hitch and wiring kit, it was hooked to the bolt on the positive cable. I disconnected the trailer wiring kit from the positive post bolt and the left turn light is now off and car operates like it should. Seems there is a short in the wiring to the trailer plug and ran down the old 12v 12350 battery, I charged it up and it is good as new. I now have an extra AGM battery.

 

Hello All,
Newb here. I purchased a 2008 Prius one month ago with 112,500 miles on it. One owner car-all dealer records.
I will need to replace the 12 volt battery soon, and I have the SKS key...If I purchase the following battery and make sure it is fully charged before installation, will this be up to the task?
From Amazon: the Powersonic-PS-12350NB-35Amp-Sealed-Battery :B07BR7QL5Y
I will add adapter terminals

OR this one?

Again from Amazon Mighty-Max-Battery-Internal-Replacemen B01HDO79P

Thank you for you help!

 

Go with a 55ah battery.

 

Thank you, is there one that may be recommended?

Best,
Griswald

 

That battery will work, may be a little small in the holder. The 12v battery only fires up the electronics/computer/keyless entry.

 

As I understand it, the SKS versions have a bigger battery (45Ah or something) and the NON-SKS have a smaller one (33Ah?). Logical as the SKS system is constantly polling for the presence of a key.

With some effort I fitted a 55Ah in my NON-SKS. With this I am hoping never to have to replace the battery ever again. It survived a 9 week stop with no issue.

 

It works fine in my '10 with SKS, over 4 yrs and still going, on Amazon $64.99 and free shipping.

Powersonic-PS-12350NB-35Amp-Sealed-Battery

 

I was looking up batteries, and Batteries Plus sells a battery for the SV21 medical cart, which seems to be the same battery as the RA12-55. Looking up SV21 medical cart, I found Gel versions:

Gel version:
http://www.amazon.com/SigmasTek-SPG12-55-Gel-Cell-Battery/dp/B01GDZE2Y0
SPG12-55 SigmasTek genuine GEL Battery (12 Volt 51 Amp)

AGM version:
SV22 Styleview Cart Ergotron Medical Battery (12V 55Ah)

Note: The Gel version claims "50% longer runtime", but has fewer AH (55 for AGM, 51 for Gel)

Any thoughts?

 

4ah difference seems pretty minor overall, I wouldn't worry about it. Price difference? Stated life?

 

As I've said before I bought my Batteries Plus wheelchair battery in December 2012... And though it's dipping down in to the 12.5v range and nearing the end, it's been a good long run for it and it might just make it to seven years if I can get 5 more months out of it.

 

I've been running a mobility AGM 35AH for almost 5yrs. Six or eight months ago, I had a trailer wiring kit malfunction and ran down the battery, I ordered another AGM 35AH before I discovered the malfunction, the original mobility battery is now doing service in a zero turn mower.

 

I really need to replace my original 2007 12v, but I have jumped a few times from a 7ah SLA battery. Works perfectly. I might use that as my main battery, with the proviso of putting a resistor in to slow down the maximum rate of charge

 

How is this gonna work?
From what I gather, starting up the computers takes up to 20A of current, and once that is done, the 200VDC=>12VDC DC-DC converter takes over (I mostly see a 14.1V output) and you could, in theory, replace the battery with a 'small' capacitor (I might try this with a 21V 1F cap I have, or a few 22mF 16V caps).
Any resistor should either be low enough to still deliver >10V @ 20A or it should be bypassed on startup.
But you may have better ideas (as you're active and knowledgable in plenty of areas on here), so I'd love to hear them.

 

Non sks version I hope. Have you measured any load/drain with key removed from vehicle. Non sks batteries are 30ah batteries I believe. I'm sure Toyota would have used lower capacity battery if they could of.

 

I don't know if this is to me, but it might be, because my idea of using a small 7AH battery for the 12v is ridiculous - exactly the reason I think it would be fun to do!

I have actually connected that 7AH 12v SLA battery to the jump start points at the front of the car. It gave a spark due to the dead 'big' 12v battery, but booted up the car, even when it was also dumping charge into the 8-9v '12v' standard battery.

I need to work out how to do it, but the main issue I see is that the DC-DC convertor would overcharge the tiny battery and perhaps make it burst. I know the car can start fine when the 12v is about 10.1 volts (not advised but, it works). So, if I calculate the correct resistor so that during peak load, the voltage drops to 10.8 volts during the startup, that should solve the problem of the DC-DC convertor charging the battery too fast once the car is running.

Come to think of it, adding a capacitor to a small battery could solve the problem more gracefully, allowing a smaller battery to do 'burst' loads such as when booting up, more easily. I could also make a circuit with a diode, so that the battery can output 'any' current, but when charging, it goes through the resistor to limit the rate of charge. I might do this over the next few days. I will post again if I get this done. My car will thank me as my 12v battery is 11-12 years old and terribly worn - it probably has less than 1Ahr on a good day...