Engine swap question

That would be good enough to get you home if you got stuck on the road.
But I wouldn't trust it for long term use. You found cracks, did you get them all? Where else will they start showing up?
How much would a new housing cost?
But it's your vehicle.

 

The new housing cost $50 at my local toyota dealer. Its not the money issue but i will keep an eye. When lkq took the engine out, something probably nicked it thats why there was a little bit of plastic missing. I guess thats where the crack came from. I ll hunt on ebay for a new one but lets see it said it can hold up to 900 psi and 300 degree farenheit.

 

Good Luck. I hope it works for you.

 

You can use the thermostat from the old engine. They're the same.

 

The third bolt slot broke on the old one.

 

I agree with @ASRDogman because the expoxy may bond with the surface effectively if the surface was cleaned and prepped thoroughly , but it would not tend to penetrate all the way down into the hairline cracks. In long-term use over many heat cycles and vibration, I would expect those hairline cracks to gradually widen until they are leaking fluid. But I have had surprising outcomes using epoxy products like that, so best of luck to you!

 

What about ABS glue? A little late in the day, just a thought.

 

I did clean the surface and i found all the cracks. Also i let it cure for 2-3 hours in a warm room of my house so it helps bonding. Only time will tell i guess.

If anything i am planning on doing the thermostat housing and lower raditor hose. I used the 1” long galvanized pipe but not liking it since it has threads on them which are covered but i am still going to replace them with the 2016-2017 lower rad hose. Mine didnt come with it. I know @Ragingfit s engine came with it.
I took a 70 mile road trip and coolant level is same and with 55.3mpg.

 

I always find applying abs cement hard on the nerves: you have about 4~5 seconds, from putting the parts together, to that's all she wrote. It basically melts/welds the pieces. Again, not sure if it would be compatible, and you're already done.

 

He's already counted to ten

Pixel XL ?

 

I saw that glue at home depot,(e600 or something like that) the temperature range was only up to 180 degrees farenheit. Thats why i bought the jb water weld because the temp was 300

 

Update on the progress. Motor is in everything is hooked up. So there are two different water pumps. I took photos of the two to compare. I'm still having overheating issues. I'm pretty sure that head sealer clogged up my radiator. The hose coming from the water pump is cool to the touch. You can feel current in it. The hose coming out on the driver side is hot. Temps started to climb to 90 celsius. I shut it off. Heater blows hot, no exhaust smell like before. No bubbling in reservoir. The bleeder valve near firewall has coolant coming out and other times nothing coming out. My local dealerships wanted 6xx for a 2010 water pump and 285$ for a 2016 water pump. Going to exchange the one I purchased.

2016 water pump brand new on the car with the 2016 engine thermostat. I flushed out radiator and heater core prior to installing engine. The new water pump started to make some weird noise. I've attached a link to the video. You can hear the sound change when I put my hand directly on the water pump. I'm going to replace radiator next.

 

I just changed my antifreeze and my water temp light came on now and then for 5 days, 500 miles.
It's ok today. The light flashes when you hit 240 F and stays on above 250 F. Hope that helps.
Takes forever to get the air out.

 

Mine made a noise after 10 min of being on in maintanance mode when i raised the tank up. Then it started blowing hot. @Ragingfit do you think i might still have air? If so, whats the procedure to get the air out.

 

Every time I did a water pump, thermostat, coolant change on my Prius's, I'd get the temp light and the heat would stop working. Drove my crazy!
I did that video to remind myself how to get the air out.

Once the heat starts working it'll be OK.
As long as you have enough coolant.
Also, I think the old water pump may be better than the 2016-17. Mounting is the same.

 

You have a bleeder valve?????
I don't have a bleeder valve. I wish. Where?

 

Water flow starts at the water pump, flows into the engine. The radiator hose going into the thermostat will be the coldest in the system. The line coming from the EGR cooler to the thermostat will be the hottest. EGR cooler line bypasses the thermostat in the housing. if there's no water in that line, the pump won't pump. Hot water from the EGR cooler line opens the thermostat to let water in from the radiator.
You should raise the coolant tank to force the air out, if you haven't tried that already.

 

Is your old water pump bad? Look at the coolant tank if the return line is making bubbles. When i raised my tank to get air out, it made bubbles.

I would second that. Lkq sells radiator, so try a radiator. 30 day return so of it doesnt workout return it. I know how it feels when you loose gallon of coolant each time you take those hoses out. I raised my car as high as i could only on passenger side, then use the jack stand. so at least some stays in the radiator.

 

2010~2011 have bleeder valve, and it was nixed in 2012. The white cap is the top of it.