Removing rounded hex

Gonna have to drill out and retap

 

Use oversize key allen and hit it with a hammer until it goes into the nut

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A stud remover might work.

 

Cut a slot into the bolt head and use a flat head screw driver

 

An easy-out might get it. You may have to drill a hole to get one in there, though.

 

What drain plug is that?

Drill it out and use a screw extractor.

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-53535-Extractor/dp/B00004YOBF?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

I like the idea of pounding a large allen key but the part it goes into looks like sheet metal and probably wouldn't seat very well and
may bend the part it is attached to.

Looks like the whole cover could be removed also.

 

What is that btw? Is it the coolant drain bolt under transaxle??

I would try getting it out with a stud extractor, one of those drills with aggressive reserve thread. You might be able to get the stud extractor to bite sufficiently as is. If not, drill right through and (after everything drains, try again. Be as careful as possible, to stop drilling just as you get through, try to complete it with the stud extractor bit.

Before getting into it, buy the replacement bolt. Don't get fancy, just get one from the dealership, make sure you've got the right one.

You know, open letter to Toyota: why oh why do you use hex sockets on the drain bolts. How about 3/8" square holes? I know that's all I've ever seen on Hondas, never a problem.

 

Bolt extractor might work.

 

That's brilliant!

Yeah, looks to be the transaxle coolant drain bolt, probably the same drain bolt as the ATF WS fluid drain/fill bolts, but don't guess.



Maybe that panel could just be replaced, with a fresh drain bolt, if it comes to it.

 

Bolt extractor (easy out) is trickier than it seems. They break very easily and make things more trouble than before. If not experienced with those, i suggest avoiding.

 

If the part it screws into is easily removable I disagree. If you break a bolt extractor you just remove the little pan.

 

First thing I'd try would be a Torx bit socket that's just a little too big to fit in the hole.


Pound it in with a hammer and use a ratchet or breaker bar to remove the plug. That will probably work, but if it doesn't, then I'd use a Dremel to cut a slot across plug head and use a cold chisel at an angle to make it move counter-clockwise rotation.

 

Belts and braces: hammer something in, like a torx bit, or a hex socket, then tack weld weld it in two or 3 places, before applying torque.

Just guessing: maybe 3/8" (9.525 mm) allen key was used initially, in place of of 10 mm? Stanley for one makes a nice set of metric allen key "sockets".

 

This discussion reminds me of a day when I was at work and the guy I was working with wanted to do the job his way and I wanted to do it my way.

He looked at me and said, "There is more than one way to get to ten", I looked at him kind of puzzled and then he continued. " 5+5=10.
6+4=10, 9+1" . There are many ways for him to get that plug out now he will have to decide what works best for him.

 

Vice grips - just be careful not to grip the case. Alternately tap it both ways, harder in the counter-clockwise rotation, until it loosens.

 

I couldn't tell how much was sticking up from the picture.

 

I think if it comes to drilling through the drain bolt, I'd use the car as much as possible first, get a replacement bolt, replacement washer, coolant and whatever. Then to drain the inverter, take that whole panel off. That way you avoid getting drill shavings into the transaxle.

When you're getting supplies, get the Toyota form-in-place gasket specd, assuming that's what's required.

I've been looking through repair manual for info on that, so far no luck.

You don't want to try wrenching those drain bolts with a regular length ratchet wrench: use extra long handle wrench, or impact driver.

 

Too: having that plate loose, with the stuck drain bolt, you could run it over to a machine shop or garage, let them do the extraction, with all the knowhow and tools.