I see a portable jump starter/compressor on sale today and am thinking about buying one for my Prime. As long as the terminals are connected correctly, does anyone foresee any possible harm being done by such a device (to the electrical system of the vehicle) if I ever find myself with a depleted 12V battery? Thanks in advance.
This is the Key "if connected improperly the alarm will sound, alerting you to switch the clamps before turning on the unit." if you don't turn on the unit until the clamps are in place, it will warn you that you have done it wrong. Mind you, if you turn it on first, before attaching the clamps, it can still damage electronics with the jump starter. It is safer than jumper cables.
Jumper cables also won't cause any problem if instructions are followed correctly. But the smaller portable jump starters can take a lot less stowage space than jumper cables, and you can use them without waiting for a good Samaritan to come along.
That’s what I love about my NOCO. About the size of a radar detector, but packs a punch for multiple starts. Totally safe too. I loved pulling up to a kid in a Bronco with my PRIUS, and then pulled out the device to start his car. No need for air pump, waste of space. Fix a flat in a pinch or AAA.
When the 12v was moved to the engine bay, was its size also increased? Can a Prius safely jump another car now?
There is already an air pump hidden somewhere in the trunk of the Prime. And a tub of goo. Not sure if the battery is any bigger. I still wouldn't jumpstart another car from the Prime with the hybrid system on. It's not worth the risk of damaging the DC-DC converter. Probably ok wowi it off. But a jump starter might be useful if you want to help others who might need it. As an engineer I'm still skeptical of lithium jump starters. It can't be good for the lithium battery, and most of them are poorly designed and low quality. But I have to admit I don't think I've read anything bad about them.
Nice timing, I had this happen yesterday, a buddy needed a jump. Was the first time I used this: NOCO Genius Boost Plus GB40 1000 Amp 12V UltraSafe Lithium Jump Starter It's been sitting in the back of my car for almost 3 years, never checked it since the initial charge. Worked just fine. Even after that jump it's showing 90% charge left so I'd bet there's more than a couple more jumps left if needed. Got mine after some idiot I was trying to help almost killed my car by hooking up jumper cables wrong. Not sure what he did but the second he tried starting his car mine died completely. Since then I've refused to let anyone hook up cables to my car. I'll still help but I'm not putting my car at risk to do it.
My husband's retired engineer friend got us a bunch of the EC5 connector cables with the clips, cut off the clips and installed ring terminals on them. Here's a photo of one on our lawnmower. Now, we have them for the 12 volt on all of our cars. It really comes in handy, and there is no confusion when we need a boost. Just plug in, turn the key or push the start button, and we're good to go,
The warnings are still in the Gen 4 book. The inverter is not sized to charge a second battery, especially one that may have a dead cell..
Thanks for all the responses. Decided against the bulky version with the (unnecessary) built-in compressor. See this guy on sale today for < $50, so going for it... Suaoki U10 800A Peak 20000mAh Car Jump Starter $45.49 - Techbargains
Do we know how much 12v power is needed to power the electronics so the main battery & one of the motor-generators will crank the engine?
Somewhere I read that 8 D cells would work fine. All you have to do is get the hybrid system controller to boot up. Once the car gets to Ready mode and the main battery is online, the DC-DC converter will provide 12V to other systems. And if there is sufficient charge in the main battery, the car will then just run in EV mode anyway and not crank the engine until the main battery is drained.
does anyone have an actual description of how one of these 8 battery pack solutions is built and used?
Pretty simple. Wire them in series and attached two alligator clips; red to positive and black to negative. You can easily solder them together with some stranded wire or use D cell battery holders. Easier would be to use two 6 volt lantern batteries wired in series and taped or strapped together with wire ties. If you cut open a 6 volt lantern battery, there will be four D cells connected in series inside.
Some members have measured; if I remember right, one saw an initial spike of up to 30 amps for a fraction of a second, then dropping to under 10. 30 amps at 12 volts is 360 watts, but the brief spike means it's probably less than 100 watt seconds. If the brake accumulator pressure is low at the time, that pump will try to run, and that's a heavier load that can last for several seconds. It can be helpful to pull those relays before trying to start with a limited power supply.