Engine swap question

Masked the engine problem with a bad battery. Double whammy. Hope it was cheap

 

Would you be able to help me . I can pay you for doing it obviously. And for torch, do you mean the regular propane torch or acetylene one?

 

Think I should day that there are propane, MAAP gas, and acetylene torches available , but what is important is not the fuel burned so much as the TOTAL HEAT OUTPUT of the torch which depends on the design of the head and total flow rate as well as how hot the basic fuel burns. I have heated rusted nuts to get them loose enough to unscrew, but I have not heated a crankcase in order to get a broken bolt out of it, so I cannot advise you on what heat range of torch would work best for that exact situation.
(Especially with an alloy crankcase, there may be a danger with the very highest heat range torches such as a large oxy-acetylene torch, that the crankcase would crack or even melt if you held that torch on it in one place too long. Also, please ensure that there is NO possibility of gasoline fumes coming down to the torch area—a relative lost his eyesight when a gas tank blew on a car he was welding on.)

 

Propane torch should be plenty. I'd maybe even start with a heat gun, much more gentle.

 

Another option: drill it out and try a bolt extractor? If that doesn't work, then progressively (and very carefully) drill bigger holes: this may allow what's left to contract a little, break the bond with a little twisting. You've really got to watch though, stay within the thread ID.

 

I would combine putting a penetrating oil on the point where the bolt enters the block, and letting that soak in a bit, with then trying the bolt extractor approach.

 

We would use the yellow bottle. I can't remember which one it's called though because it's been a while.
Go to the plumbing section to get it from Lowe's or home depot. The nozzle on the yellow bottle will wrap around
the bolt because it's used to heat copper pipes to solder. It will heat more evenly.
Heat the case for 20-30 second in a circular motion, have vise grips on the bolt then tighten and loosed it a little,
back and forth. You could also tap on the case or bolt to maybe shock it free. You want to expand the case
to pull it away from the bolt so it will loosen.

 

What do we with this sensor. @Ragingfit

 

I was wondering the same thing.

 

You start your swap yet?

 

Engine is in. Just gotta hook up all the coolant lines and accessories. Well figure out which way I want to run coolant lines and oil catch can. I ended up breaking this part. The fitting comes with the hose.

So close !

 

Just put a T and you will be fine.

 

I broke 3 engine/transmission bolts and they were all pita. The bolt extractor only works if its newer but its its rust Then better heat it with propane torch and 10in stanley fatmax vise because regular vise teeth are not deep enough to bite i guess.

 

@cnc97 @Mendel Leisk @Ragingfit
How to clean the egr cooler. The car i bought has the original and never cleaned. I used purple power degreser half and half water. It broke the carbon deposit loose from the surface. I am having trouble cleaning the fins inside. I put the cooler in hot water 3 days and changed water every day. Today i used power wash and still its not breaking loose. The water goes through it but its slow. Should i let it sit in vinegar?

 

Use a PRESSURE washer and you won’t have an issue .

I’ve cleaned a handful (that's at least 5) with a pressure washer and it works like a charm each time and in 15 minutes including setup.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Oxi-Clean worked for me. Three responders, 3 solutions, lol.

Mine only had around 50K miles accumulation. First I used brake cleaner soaks, while running a wire through. That kinda cleaned, but seemed to be stalled, around half clean. Then, on suggestion of @mjoo, I plugged one end, mixed up a more-or-less saturated solution of oxi-clean poweder in the hottest tap water I could get. Poured that in, let sit an hour, pour out and rinse thoroughly, and repeat.

About 5~6 repetitions thus, it was like new. Again, this was with low accumulations, only 50K miles.

 

Oven Cleaner. Spray it in one end and then cover with your palm, forcing it out the other end, or in your case, force it in the cracks.
I recommend wearing rubber gloves. Then do the other end. About a 30 minutes soak should get rid of most of it if not all.
Then as raytheeagle said, use the pressure washer. I just used the hose with a tight stream from an attachment.
I didn't think about the pressure washer until after I had cleaned it. But I will use it next time.
I only had to use the oven cleaner once, but yours seems to be fully clogged so it may need a second dose.
I also used GUNK, NOT the crappy foam version. The gunk will soften it up if you let it soak.

 

@Mendel Leisk @ASRDogman @cnc97
Mine is 281k so its all gunked up.