ABS, Slip and both brake warning lights stay on after replaced rear hub assemblies.

I have a 2012 Prius v two that started to have bad bearing noise in the rear after about 137K. I asked at my dealer, and the cost there for me was prohibitive (~$450 for parts + $250 labor for each side). I ended up going to local Autozone and getting a pair of their Duralast DL590464 hubs for what the dealer was asking for one OEM hub.

I am not afraid to tackle the repair, so one Saturday got to it, got it done, but one crucial (crucially stooooopid) mistake I made is on the right hub I forgot to disconnect the ABS/Skid sensor and ended up tearing the cable. No biggie or so I thought, but I could not get that harness the same day and ended up ordering it. This is my only car, so I had to drive it to/from work while the harness was en route. The ABS, Slip and both brake warning lights were understandably on, since no sensor input from the right rear. I got the harness, installed it (OT: whoever designed that should be sentenced to be replacing it for the rest of his/her life...) and with great anticipation drove it to work, only to find that all those lights are still on.

I researched it online, there were a number of (not so) helpful finds. I did find at Priuschat a way of resetting the ABS light with the jumping pins 4 and 13 of the OBD connector, pumping the brake and such. While I was doing that I noticed though the ABS error codes it was flashing, 33 AND 34, (33 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Malfunction, 34 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Signal Malfunction)! Needless to say, the lights did not get reset, they stayed on.

Frustrated, I conceded defeat, took it to the dealer, where the mechanic was actually very helpful and took me into the work are and showed me the on the diagnostic, if he connects a 'genuine Toyota' hub the car recognizes it immediately, and when he connects the harness back to the Duralast hub the computer basically shows an open circuit - ON BOTH SIDES. So this little exercise cost me $120 to confirm my suspicion that both sensors are either bad or ???.

I wrote a letter to Autozone explaining my situation, they were actually very understanding - they offered me to give me the 'other' option they carry, a set of hub made by Moog, whch were priced at $350 each, at the same price as the Duralast, i.e. a straight exchange.

So another Saturday, replace the Duralast ones with the Moog ones (made SURE the sensors are taken care of), excitedly get in the car to take a test drive, ... and all the lights are still on. So I drive it a little longer (20 miles) just to make sure, but lights are still on. I do the OBD pin 4-13 short to check the codes, and - still 33 AND 34.

I am at a complete loss at this.

I am reasonable with troubleshooting electronics (I have an EE degree, but been doing software for the past 20+ years), but for troubleshooting, one needs a place to start from, a schematic or guide, which I have been unable to find.

I wonder if any of you out there might have any pointers for me?

 

Thank you!

 

Sorry for not getting back any sooner....

As it turned out the OBD pin 4-13 short shown both codes 33 and 34 was INCORRECT.

Being a cheapskate and not wanting to spend hundreds at a dealer - I ended up getting a 'Techstream' knockoff connector/USB cable with software on e-bay (WELL WORTH IT!) which showed only the right side being open circuit!
That made a lot more sense, so I removed the tire (that's the easiest way for me to access the connector) and looked at it again.

I removed the outer shell, and it still looked good, but I figured why not - tried pushing on it just to make sure - and it popped into place - albeit it took quiet a bit of pressure - more than I thought it should have. After that it took only about 1/4 mile before the lights on the dash were shut off!

NOTE: for people looking for manuals, electronic diagrams etc, I finally found (through priuschat) techinfo toyota (TIS) - they offer a 2 day subscription for $20 - and if you do a little bit of research AHEAD of time on how to print pages automatically to pdf files, you can download the entire Maintenance Manual the techs use (albeit 1 page/section at a time) and a lot more.
If you have Acrobat you could assemble a single pdf file of it in a short amount of time...
Also, if you time your subscription right, you could get well over the 48 hours, since subscriptions expire at midnight on the last day.

It took me a Saturday and part of Sunday + $20 to get a really good manual, all service bulletins, wiring diagrams, technical training documents plus some other misc technical information about my Prius. (One of the places suggested to me earlier charges $225 just for the schematics...)