Common 2G Problems, and What to Do About Them...

Hank Dietz · Dec 27, 2018

My daughter was driving my 2006 Prius when she heard a short sound and dash lights for problem came on, so she pulled over and stopped. After restarting, the car barely moved, so she turned it off again. When I arrived about 15 minutes later, I was able to start the car and drive it the few miles to home, and parked it outside. The rear seat fan was running full force -- even after sitting for a while, it turns on full force within 30s if I turn the car on. Here's what the displays show:

One of the tire pressure sensors died and hasn't been replaced, so that means nothing. Anyway, it's hard to read, but the car does have just over 184,000 miles -- all on the original battery pack.
So, I'm suspect the battery pack is dead. Two questions:

Should I just have somebody (e.g., Green Bean) come out and replace the battery pack?

Should I take it to the dealer to get things checked first and, if so, should I get it towed there?

Basically, I'd really just like this car to last another six months or so and I don't do any maintenance on it myself -- it's been all dealership serviced. The only regular problem for it has been burning a bit of oil, but next scheduled maintenance is at 186,000.

Stoner · Dec 27, 2018

Patrick Wong said: ↑

Evan Fusco had requested a compilation of 2G known problems, so I'm starting this thread to capture commonly-seen issues.

Problem: Car won't start
Symptoms: There are several possible reasons for a no-start situation. The most likely would be lack of fuel or a dead 12V auxiliary battery. If your fuel gauge shows two bars or less, then suspect insufficient fuel. If you note that cabin lighting is dimmer than normal or if the headlights are dim, then suspect a marginal 12V battery.
Frequency: N/A
Diagnostic: Variable, depending upon the root cause
Cure: Add fuel or replace the battery as appropriate. Note that if you add less than 3 gallons of fuel, the system may not recognize this addition. Then you'll have to disconnect the 12V auxiliary battery negative terminal for a few minutes, then reconnect. This will force the gas gauge to register correctly.
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: If the fuel level is sufficient and the 12V battery is OK, then more digging will be required. Open the hood and look for loose wiring harness connectors especially at the fuel injectors and the spark igniters.

If it has been raining recently, then it is possible that water may have dripped from the cowl onto the engine valve cover, and then into the spark plug wells causing engine misfire or no-start.

It is also possible that the throttle body interior and throttle plate require cleaning, if sufficient black gunk has accumulated. To inspect this, remove the air cleaner housing and rotate the spring-loaded throttle shaft while the car is IG-OFF. Use a flashlight to illuminate the interior of the throttle body, looking for this gunk on the throttle plate edges and the throttle body interior. If present, you can clean it off using throttle body cleaner (use the minimum necessary cleaner fluid, and don't get the mass air flow sensor wet. This is attached to the air cleaner housing and protrudes into the airflow leading down into the throttle body.)

The mass air flow sensor may require cleaning. A couple of screws secure this part to the air cleaner housing. Carefully remove the sensor and use MAF cleaner to clean off the wires and the bulb that senses ambient air temp. Make sure the O-ring is in good condition before reinstalling the MAF sensor.

Other reasons for no-start include oil viscosity which is greater than 5W-30 or excessive oil level. If the iridium spark plugs have not been replaced on schedule (every 120K miles) then this needs to be done. The engine air filter should not be excessively dirty.

If you see no obvious problem, then it is time to have the car towed to your local Toyota dealer.

Problem: Car won't shut off
Symptoms: When the car is READY and the POWER button is depressed, the car will not shift into P and move from READY to IG-OFF.
Frequency: Intermittent
Diagnostic: No DTC will be posted
Cure: For temporary relief, hold the POWER button down for several seconds until the car becomes IG-OFF. The permanent cure is to have the combination meter assembly replaced (this displays the speedometer, odometer, fuel gauge, warning lights, etc.)
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: This issue has been appearing on newer model years, particularly 2007-2009. Usually this problem will be accompanied by the combination meter going blank on an intermittent basis. The reason for the problem appears to be that the combination meter has an intermittent connection within and loses vehicle speed information. The POWER control circuitry will not move from READY to IG-OFF if the car's speed is indeterminate.

Problem: Car loses power. Master warning light (red triangle) appears. Brake and VSC lights may appear.
Symptoms: See above
Frequency: After car has been driven for a while, especially in hot weather
Diagnostic: DTC P0A93, Inverter Cooling Performance
Cure: Replace inverter coolant pump
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: This is a popular reason for Prius to stop dead, usually in hot summer weather. We've seen a sufficient number of inverter coolant pump failures so I would say that if you have more than 100K miles logged and you wish to keep your car in top condition, consider replacing this pump now as a preventive maintenance move.

Problem: 12V auxiliary battery failure
Symptoms: Unusual MFD warning messages. Weak cabin lights and headlights.
Frequency: May be intermittent initially
Diagnostic: Measure battery open-circuit voltage. 12.6VDC or greater indicates the battery is fully charged. 12.2VDC indicates 50% charge. However, note that battery voltage is not a perfect indicator of battery health as excessive internal resistance will result in the battery not being able to deliver sufficient current under load.
Cure: Replace the battery. The correct Toyota battery can be purchased at your Toyota dealer's parts counter. Note that two sizes are available; the smaller size is for base models while the larger size is for models with the Smart Entry / Smart Start system.

Some posters have been very happy with the Optima battery, but this requires installation of a new positive battery terminal connector and replacement of the negative battery cable.
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: If you have weird electrical problems and the battery is more than 3 years old, I suggest replacing it as a preventive measure and to rule that out as a cause of the problems.

Even if your car currently doesn't demonstrate weird problems; if you would be unduly inconvenienced by a dead 12V auxiliary battery, then I suggest you replace the battery every three to four years if you live in very hot or very cold climates; and every four to five years if you live in an area with moderate climate.

Problem: SmartKey-equipped Prius makes unusual beep sound upon shut down.
Symptoms: Beep sound is new, not previously heard
Frequency: N/A
Diagnostic: N/A
Cure: Replace fob battery
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: The battery costs around $5 or less at your friendly drugstore. If you like to do preventive maintenance, I suggest that you replace the fob battery every three years instead of waiting for the fob to stop working.

Problem: Traction battery failure
Symptoms: MFD traction battery or hybrid vehicle warning icon will appear. Engine will run more than normal.
Frequency: Will be a solid failure, not likely to be intermittent
Diagnostic: DTC P0A7F (which shows excessive internal battery resistance) and P0A80 (uneven battery module voltages) are likely DTC codes. P3011 through P3024 may also appear to show which battery block has failed.
Cure: Replace traction battery; consider purchase and installation of a salvage battery if cost of new battery is prohibitive
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: Need to ensure that the battery ECU or the inverter are not causing the problem.

Problem: MFD unresponsive
Symptoms: Unusual warning messages appear, having to do with the air conditioning system for example. The screen does not update as quickly as it should. The touchscreen controls do not respond to your touch.
Frequency: Initially intermittent, will eventually become a solid failure. Symptoms are usually worse in cold weather.
Diagnostic: N/A
Cure: Replace the MFD, ask the dealer to install a remanufactured unit to save considerable $$$.
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: This issue primarily affects 2004-2005 model year vehicles. If you wish to effect a DIY repair, look up Hobbit's website on this subject: Prius MFD
Click to expand...

Stoner · Dec 27, 2018

Patrick Wong said: ↑

Evan Fusco had requested a compilation of 2G known problems, so I'm starting this thread to capture commonly-seen issues.

Problem: Car won't start
Symptoms: There are several possible reasons for a no-start situation. The most likely would be lack of fuel or a dead 12V auxiliary battery. If your fuel gauge shows two bars or less, then suspect insufficient fuel. If you note that cabin lighting is dimmer than normal or if the headlights are dim, then suspect a marginal 12V battery.
Frequency: N/A
Diagnostic: Variable, depending upon the root cause
Cure: Add fuel or replace the battery as appropriate. Note that if you add less than 3 gallons of fuel, the system may not recognize this addition. Then you'll have to disconnect the 12V auxiliary battery negative terminal for a few minutes, then reconnect. This will force the gas gauge to register correctly.
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: If the fuel level is sufficient and the 12V battery is OK, then more digging will be required. Open the hood and look for loose wiring harness connectors especially at the fuel injectors and the spark igniters.

If it has been raining recently, then it is possible that water may have dripped from the cowl onto the engine valve cover, and then into the spark plug wells causing engine misfire or no-start.

It is also possible that the throttle body interior and throttle plate require cleaning, if sufficient black gunk has accumulated. To inspect this, remove the air cleaner housing and rotate the spring-loaded throttle shaft while the car is IG-OFF. Use a flashlight to illuminate the interior of the throttle body, looking for this gunk on the throttle plate edges and the throttle body interior. If present, you can clean it off using throttle body cleaner (use the minimum necessary cleaner fluid, and don't get the mass air flow sensor wet. This is attached to the air cleaner housing and protrudes into the airflow leading down into the throttle body.)

The mass air flow sensor may require cleaning. A couple of screws secure this part to the air cleaner housing. Carefully remove the sensor and use MAF cleaner to clean off the wires and the bulb that senses ambient air temp. Make sure the O-ring is in good condition before reinstalling the MAF sensor.

Other reasons for no-start include oil viscosity which is greater than 5W-30 or excessive oil level. If the iridium spark plugs have not been replaced on schedule (every 120K miles) then this needs to be done. The engine air filter should not be excessively dirty.

If you see no obvious problem, then it is time to have the car towed to your local Toyota dealer.

Problem: Car won't shut off
Symptoms: When the car is READY and the POWER button is depressed, the car will not shift into P and move from READY to IG-OFF.
Frequency: Intermittent
Diagnostic: No DTC will be posted
Cure: For temporary relief, hold the POWER button down for several seconds until the car becomes IG-OFF. The permanent cure is to have the combination meter assembly replaced (this displays the speedometer, odometer, fuel gauge, warning lights, etc.)
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: This issue has been appearing on newer model years, particularly 2007-2009. Usually this problem will be accompanied by the combination meter going blank on an intermittent basis. The reason for the problem appears to be that the combination meter has an intermittent connection within and loses vehicle speed information. The POWER control circuitry will not move from READY to IG-OFF if the car's speed is indeterminate.

Problem: Car loses power. Master warning light (red triangle) appears. Brake and VSC lights may appear.
Symptoms: See above
Frequency: After car has been driven for a while, especially in hot weather
Diagnostic: DTC P0A93, Inverter Cooling Performance
Cure: Replace inverter coolant pump
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: This is a popular reason for Prius to stop dead, usually in hot summer weather. We've seen a sufficient number of inverter coolant pump failures so I would say that if you have more than 100K miles logged and you wish to keep your car in top condition, consider replacing this pump now as a preventive maintenance move.

Problem: 12V auxiliary battery failure
Symptoms: Unusual MFD warning messages. Weak cabin lights and headlights.
Frequency: May be intermittent initially
Diagnostic: Measure battery open-circuit voltage. 12.6VDC or greater indicates the battery is fully charged. 12.2VDC indicates 50% charge. However, note that battery voltage is not a perfect indicator of battery health as excessive internal resistance will result in the battery not being able to deliver sufficient current under load.
Cure: Replace the battery. The correct Toyota battery can be purchased at your Toyota dealer's parts counter. Note that two sizes are available; the smaller size is for base models while the larger size is for models with the Smart Entry / Smart Start system.

Some posters have been very happy with the Optima battery, but this requires installation of a new positive battery terminal connector and replacement of the negative battery cable.
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: If you have weird electrical problems and the battery is more than 3 years old, I suggest replacing it as a preventive measure and to rule that out as a cause of the problems.

Even if your car currently doesn't demonstrate weird problems; if you would be unduly inconvenienced by a dead 12V auxiliary battery, then I suggest you replace the battery every three to four years if you live in very hot or very cold climates; and every four to five years if you live in an area with moderate climate.

Problem: SmartKey-equipped Prius makes unusual beep sound upon shut down.
Symptoms: Beep sound is new, not previously heard
Frequency: N/A
Diagnostic: N/A
Cure: Replace fob battery
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: The battery costs around $5 or less at your friendly drugstore. If you like to do preventive maintenance, I suggest that you replace the fob battery every three years instead of waiting for the fob to stop working.

Problem: Traction battery failure
Symptoms: MFD traction battery or hybrid vehicle warning icon will appear. Engine will run more than normal.
Frequency: Will be a solid failure, not likely to be intermittent
Diagnostic: DTC P0A7F (which shows excessive internal battery resistance) and P0A80 (uneven battery module voltages) are likely DTC codes. P3011 through P3024 may also appear to show which battery block has failed.
Cure: Replace traction battery; consider purchase and installation of a salvage battery if cost of new battery is prohibitive
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: Need to ensure that the battery ECU or the inverter are not causing the problem.

Problem: MFD unresponsive
Symptoms: Unusual warning messages appear, having to do with the air conditioning system for example. The screen does not update as quickly as it should. The touchscreen controls do not respond to your touch.
Frequency: Initially intermittent, will eventually become a solid failure. Symptoms are usually worse in cold weather.
Diagnostic: N/A
Cure: Replace the MFD, ask the dealer to install a remanufactured unit to save considerable $$$.
Other information/Alternate diagnosis possible: This issue primarily affects 2004-2005 model year vehicles. If you wish to effect a DIY repair, look up Hobbit's website on this subject: Prius MFD
Click to expand...

Hello...I'm new with chat and don't know all the acronyms you and others, are using.
Could you please direct me to an acronym library or spell them out at least once, in your fine post?
Much appreciated by all of us newbies.
Stoner

padroo · Dec 27, 2018

Stoner said: ↑

Hello...I'm new with chat and don't know all the acronyms you and others, are using.
Could you please direct me to an acronym library or spell them out at least once, in your fine post?
Much appreciated by all of us newbies.
Stoner
Click to expand...

Don't feel bad, they still make me scratch my head of some of them.

jerrymildred · Dec 27, 2018

Hank Dietz said: ↑

My daughter was driving my 2006 Prius when she heard a short sound and dash lights for problem came on, so she pulled over and stopped. After restarting, the car barely moved, so she turned it off again. When I arrived about 15 minutes later, I was able to start the car and drive it the few miles to home, and parked it outside. The rear seat fan was running full force -- even after sitting for a while, it turns on full force within 30s if I turn the car on. Here's what the displays show:
View attachment 162958 View attachment 162959
One of the tire pressure sensors died and hasn't been replaced, so that means nothing. Anyway, it's hard to read, but the car does have just over 184,000 miles -- all on the original battery pack.
So, I'm suspect the battery pack is dead. Two questions:

Should I just have somebody (e.g., Green Bean) come out and replace the battery pack?

Should I take it to the dealer to get things checked first and, if so, should I get it towed there?

Basically, I'd really just like this car to last another six months or so and I don't do any maintenance on it myself -- it's been all dealership serviced. The only regular problem for it has been burning a bit of oil, but next scheduled maintenance is at 186,000.
Click to expand...

Sorry, but this sounds a lot like like a failed traction battery. You'll need to have the codes read to be sure, though. There are other possibilities. The best case would be a bad inverter coolant pump. If the dealer is within a couple miles and the streets are low speed, you could try limping over there, but towing is safer since it could just quit on you in that condition.

Patrick Wong · Dec 27, 2018

Stoner said: ↑

Hello...I'm new with chat and don't know all the acronyms you and others, are using.
Could you please direct me to an acronym library or spell them out at least once, in your fine post?
Much appreciated by all of us newbies.
Stoner
Click to expand...

Hi Stoner,

If you compile a list of the acronyms that require definition, I will endeavor to tell you what they mean.

Stoner · Dec 28, 2018

Patrick Wong said: ↑

Hi Stoner,

If you compile a list of the acronyms that require definition, I will endeavor to tell you what they mean.
Click to expand...

Thanks, will do!
Stoner

padroo · Dec 28, 2018

Actually there needs to be two groups of acronyms.

One list for internet slang acronyms.

The second list pertaining the actual car acronyms.

Here is the list on the Prius.

"A"[/paste:font]
A
Amperes

ABS
Anti-Lock Brakes

ABRS
Air Bag Restraint System

AC
Alternating Current

A/C
Air Conditioning

ACCS
A/C Cycling Switch

ACCUM
Accumulator

ACCY
Accessory

ACT
Air Charge Temperature Sensor

ADJ
Adjust or Adjustable

ADV
Advance

AFS
Airflow Sensor

AI
Air Injection

AIR or A.I.R.
Air Injection Reactor

AIS
Air Injection System

Alt.
Alternator or Altitude

Amp./amp/amps
Ampere

ASCS
Air Suction Control Solenoid

ASD
Auto Shutdown

ASDM
Air Bag System Diagnostic Module

ASV
Air Suction Valve

A/T
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle

ATC
Automatic Temperature Control

ATDC
After Top Dead Center

ATF
Automatic Transmission Fluid

ATS
Air Temperature Sensor

Aux.
Auxiliary

Avg.
Average

AXOD
Automatic Transaxle Overdrive (Ford Models Only)

"B"[/paste:font]
BAC
By-Pass Air Control

BAP
Barometric Absolute Pressure Sensor

BARO
Barometric

Batt.
Battery

Bbl.
Barrel (Example: 4-Bbl.)

BCM
Body Control Module

BHP
Brake Horsepower

BMAP
Barometric and Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

BOO
Brake On-Off Switch

B/P
Backpressure

BPS
Barometric Pressure Sensor

BPT
Backpressure Transducer

BTDC
Before Top Dead Center

BTSI
Brake Transmission Shift Interlock

BTU
British Thermal Unit

BVSV
Bimetallic Vacuum Switching Valve

"C"[/paste:font]
Â° C
Celsius (Degrees)

Calif.
California

CANP
Canister Purge

CARB
California Air Resources Board

CAT
Catalytic Converter

CB
Circuit Breaker

CBD
Closed Bowl Distributor

cc
cubic centimeter

CCC
Close Coupled Catalyst

CCC
Computer Command Control

CCD
Computer Controlled Dwell

CCOT
Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube

CCW
Counterclockwise

CDI
Capacitor Discharge Ignition

CEC
Computerized Engine Control

CID
Cubic Inch Displacement

cm
Centimeter

CMP
Camshaft Position Sensor

CO
Carbon Monoxide

CO2
Carbon Dioxide

Cont.
Continued

CONV
Convertible

CP
Canister Purge

CKP
Crankshaft Position Sensor

CTS
Coolant Temperature Sensor

Cu. In.
Cubic Inch

CVC
Constant Vacuum Control

CV
Check Valve or Constant Velocity

CW
Clockwise

CYL or Cyl.
Cylinder

C3 I
Computer Controlled Coil Ignition

C4
Computer Controlled Catalytic Converter

"D"[/paste:font]
"D"
Drive

DC
Direct Current Or Discharge

DDD
Dual Diaphragm Distributor

Def.
Defrost

Defog.
Defogger

DERM
Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module

DFI
Digital Fuel Injection

Diag.
Diagnostic

DTC
Diagnostic Trouble Code

DIC
Driver Information Center

DIS
Distributorless Ignition System

DIST
Distribution

DLC
Data Link Connector

DOC
Diesel Oxidation Catalyst

DOHC
Double Overhead Cam

DOT
Department of Transportation

DPF
Diesel Particulate Filter

DRB-II
Diagnostic Readout Box

DVOM
Digital Volt-Ohmmeter

"E"[/paste:font]
EACV
Electric Air Control Valve

EATX
Electronic Automatic Transaxle

EBCM
Electronic Brake Control Module

EBL
Electronic Back Light

ECM
Engine Control Module

ECT
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

EDIS
Electronic Distributorless Ignition System

EEC
Electronic Engine Control

EECS
Evaporative Emission Control System

EEPROM
Electronically Erasable PROM

EFE
Early Fuel Evaporation

EGO
Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor

EGR
Exhaust Gas Recirculation

EOT
Engine Oil Temperature

ESA
Electronic Spark Advance

ESC
Electronic Spark Control

EST
Electronic Spark Timing

EVAP
Fuel Evaporative System

EVIC
Electronic Vehicle Information Center

EVP
EGR Valve Position Sensor

EWMA
Exponentially Weighted Moving Average (MODE 6)

Exc.
Except

"F"[/paste:font]
Â° F
Fahrenheit (Degrees)

F/B
Fuse Block

Fed.
Federal

FI
Fuel Injection

FICU
Fuel Injection Control Unit

FIPL
Fuel Injector Pump Lever

FLI
Fuel Level Indicator

FPR-VSV
Fuel Pressure Regulator Vacuum Switching Valve

Ft. Lbs.
Foot Pounds

FWD
Front Wheel Drive

"G"[/paste:font]
g
grams

Gals.
gallons

GND or GRND
Ground

"H"[/paste:font]
HAC
High Altitude Compensation

HC
Hydrocarbons

H/D
Heavy Duty

HO2S
Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor

Hg
Mercury

Hgt.
Height

HLDT
Headlight

HO
High Output

HO2S
Heated Oxygen Sensor

HP
High Performance

HSC
High Swirl Combustion

HSO
High Specific Output

HTR
Heater

Hz
Hertz (Cycles Per Second)

"I"[/paste:font]
IAC
Idle Air Control

IACV
Idle Air Control Valve

IAT
Intake Air Temperature

IC
Integrated Circuit

ID
Identification

I.D.
Inside Diameter

IFS
Independant Front Suspension

IFS
Inertia Fuel Shutoff (Ford)

Ign.
Ignition

IMRC
Intake Manifold Runner Control

In.
Inches

INCH Lbs.
Inch Pounds

in. Hg
Inches of Mercury

Inj.
Injector

IP
Instrument Panel

IRS
Independant Rear Suspension

ISC
Idle Speed Control

IVD
Interactive Vehicle Dynamics (Ford)

IVSV
Idle Vacuum Switching Valve

"J"[/paste:font]
J/B
Junction Block

"K"[/paste:font]
KAPWR
Keep Alive Power

k/ohms
kilo-ohms (1000 ohms)

kg
Kilograms (weight)

kg/cm2
Kilograms Per Square Centimeter

KM/H
Kilometers Per Hour

KOEO
Key On, Engine Off

KOER
Key On, Engine Running

KS
Knock Sensor

kW
Kilowatt

kV
Kilovolt

"L"[/paste:font]
L
Liter

lbs. (Lbs. when used in table)
Pounds

LCD
Liquid Crystal Display

L/D
Light Duty

LDP
Leak Detection Pump (Part of EVAP system.)

LED
Light Emitting Diode

LH
Left Hand

"M"[/paste:font]
mA
Milliamps

MA or MAF
Mass Airflow

MAFS
Mass Airflow Sensor

MAP
Manifold Absolute Pressure

MAT
Manifold Air Temperature

Mem.
Memory

MEM-CAL
Memory Calibration Chip

mfd.
Microfarads

MFI
Multiport Fuel Injection

MICU
Multiplex Integrated Control Unit (Acura/Honda)

MIL
Malfunction Indicator Light

MPI
Multi-Point (Fuel) Injection

mm
Millimeters

MPH
Miles Per Hour

mV
Millivolts

"N"[/paste:font]
NA
Not Available

NAC
NOx Adsorber Catalyst

NCA
No Color Available (Wiring Diagrams)

NGS
New Generation Star

N.m
Newton Meter

No.
Number

Nos.
Numbers

NOx
Oxides of Nitrogen

"O"[/paste:font]
O2
Oxygen

OBD
On-Board Diagnostics

OC
Oxidation Catalyst

OD
Overdrive

O.D.
Outside Diameter

OHC
Overhead Camshaft

OSS
Output Speed Sensor

O/S
Oversize

oz.
Ounce

ozs.
Ounces

"P"[/paste:font]
"P"
Park

P/C
Printed Circuit

PCM
Powertrain Control Module

PCS
Purge Control Solenoid

PC-SOL
Purge Control Solenoid

PCV
Positive Crankcase Ventilation

PFI
Port Fuel Injection

PGM-FI
Programmed Fuel Injection

PID
Parameter Identification

PIP
Profile Ignition Pick-up

PNP
Park Neutral Position Switch

P/N
Park/Neutral

PRNDL
Park Reverse Neutral Drive Low

PROM
Programmable Read-Only Memory

psi
Pounds Per Square Inch

P/S
Power Steering

PSPS
Power Steering Pressure Switch

PTC
Positive Temperature Coefficient

PTO
Power Take-Off

Pts.
Pints

Pwr.
Power

"Q"[/paste:font]
Qts.
Quarts

"R"[/paste:font]
RABS
Rear Anti-Lock Brake System

RECIRC
Recirculation

RH
Right Hand

RPM
Revolutions Per Minute

RWAL
Rear Wheel Anti-Lock Brake

RWD
Rear Wheel Drive

"S"[/paste:font]
SAS
Steering Angle Sensor

SBC
Single Bed Converter

SBEC
Single Board Engine Controller

SDARS
Satellite Digital Audio Radio Service

SES
Service Engine Soon

SFI
Sequential (Port) Fuel Injection

SIL
Shift Indicator Light

SIR
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint

SOHC
Single Overhead Cam

SOL or Sol.
Solenoid

SPFI
Sequential Port Fuel Injection

SPK
Spark Control

SPOUT
Spark Output

SRI
Service Reminder Indicator

SRS
Supplemental Restraint System (Air Bag)

STAR
Self-Test Automatic Readout

STO
Self-Test Output

SUB-O2
Sub Oxygen Sensor

Sw.
Switch

Sys.
System

"T"[/paste:font]
TAB
Thermactor Air By-Pass

TAC
Throttle Actuator Module

TAD
Thermactor Air Diverter

TBC
Body Control Module (General Motors)

TBI
Throttle Body Injection

TCC
Torque Converter Clutch

TDC
Top Dead Center

Temp.
Temperature

TFI
Thick Film Ignition

THERMAC
Thermostatic Air Cleaner

TPM
Tire Pressure Monitor

TPMS
Tire Pressure Monitor System

TPS
Throttle Position Sensor/Switch

TS
Temperature Sensor

TV
Thermovalve

TWC
Three-Way Catalyst

"V"[/paste:font]
V
Valve

Vac.
Vacuum

VAF
Vane Airflow

VAPS
Variable Assist Power Steering

VCC
Viscous Converter Clutch

VCRM
Variable Control Relay Module

VIN
Vehicle Identification Number

VM
Vacuum Modulator

Volt.
Voltage

VOM
Volt-Ohmmeter (Analog)

VRV
Vacuum Regulator Valve

VSS
Vehicle Speed Sensor

VSV
Vacuum Switching Valve

"W"[/paste:font]
W/
With

W/O
Without

WAC
Wide Open Throttle A/C Switch

WOT
Wide

Stoner · Dec 28, 2018

ah, very nice...thank you!
Stoner

KatHeath · Dec 29, 2018

Jmack111 said: ↑

What happened when you put the Prius in maintenance mode bypassing the battery and hybrid system
Is there 14v
note the 14v still coming from hybrid battery

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Click to expand...

Yes the battery always reads between 11 to 14

KatHeath · Dec 29, 2018

KatHeath said: ↑

Did they fix the problem? What was it because minr is doing same thing
Click to expand...

Did they figure out the problem?

jerrymildred · Dec 29, 2018

KatHeath said: ↑

Did they figure out the problem?
Click to expand...

The post you're asking about is over 9-1/2 years old and that person only posted six times total. I imagine they are long gone.

Jmack111 · Dec 29, 2018

jerrymildred said: ↑

The post you're asking about is over 9-1/2 years old and that person only posted six times total. I imagine they are long gone.
Click to expand...

Sorry I can reread the question but if he dropping to 11v and the car charging it at 14v then on it a bad 12v battey

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

hybridheidi · Feb 20, 2019

Hi...I have a 2007 prius, bought used in 2013 from one owner. It got a new battery in 2012 and it's doing well. I took it in due to the combo meter issue and also had a diagnostic test done. They recommended new spark plugs, water pump, drive belt, and the combo meter as items that need immediate attention. They also said I need to change the lower control arms within 6 months or so, and hybrid battery cooling system filter, inverter coolant pump, control arm bushings, and stabilizer bar end links in the near future.

My car is probably worth 1200 at trade in, and some more for private party. I'm not sure if I should fix all this, and possibly have more things to fix in the future that is not coming up now. Any suggestions/recommendations on whether to fix and keep or get a different car? If these are the only issues (estimating $2,700) and I can drive it for 300k miles, I'll keep it, but I don't know what else could happen and not sure what's the best action to take.

The mechanic said he has a 2006 prius with 330K on it and it's doing great with the engine and everything, but then again, he probably took excellent care of the car, fixing it with any signs of problems while me, not so much. :/ Any insight is appreciated!

jerrymildred · Feb 21, 2019

Welcome. I don't think anyone can say what you should do. I don't get too attached to stuff, so I doubt I'd invest that much in fixing all those issues. But I'll offer some thoughts on them. First, though, you said it got a new battery in 2012. But which battery? If it was the hybrid battery, was it new or rebuilt? Since it lasted this long, I'll guess new or else it was the 12V. If it was the 12V, you're still on the original traction battery so don't be surprised if it needs to be replaced soon.

Combo meter - it is not hard or expensive to replace. You can get a rebuilt one from Matt at Prius Speedometer Replacement. He's a well respected member here.

New spark plugs - if you're at or over 115,000 miles (iirc) they are due. Not terribly hard to replace on a Gen 2 Prius.

Water pump - I'd only replace it if it's leaking. Some people replace it after a certain number of miles just in case.

Serpentine belt - If it has cracks or even if it's at the age specified in the maintenance schedule, replace it. You do NOT want that to break. You won't know it happened till you get a light on the dash and by then the head will probably be warped. The belt is a $15 part.

Hybrid battery fan - It doesn't have a filter. The fan itself may need cleaning. Again, not hard to do.

Inverter coolant pump - Did they say why? That's another thing some people replace just in case. I've never done it and have had two Gen 2s with over 150k miles on them. If you can afford to replace something not broken, it will give you some assurance that the pump won't surprise you some dark, rainy night.

Steering parts - Well, if they're worn out, they have to go. Of all the stuff they mentioned, this is the only thing that takes anything like special equipment or skills.

So, if I was strapped for cash, I'd do the belt, clean the battery fan, and get a rebuilt combo meter from Matt right now. Those are things a do-it-yourselfer with access to YouTube can handle at home. Then save for the others or sell it.

I'm sure others will have other perspectives.

padroo · Feb 21, 2019

Paying a dealer on an old high mileage car for non hybrid work is expensive. I would find a local shop that has done work on Prius especially if just changing parts.

Karl Goh · Jul 20, 2019

Just noticed a mild electric burning scent in cabin of my 2004 base model. Smells similar to what u get when using a battery drill. What should i be looking out for?

Patrick Wong · Jul 20, 2019

Karl Goh said: ↑

Just noticed a mild electric burning scent in cabin of my 2004 base model. Smells similar to what u get when using a battery drill. What should i be looking out for?
Click to expand...

What warning lights if any are on?

What you should be looking out for:
1. The inverter coolant pump motor having a short and overheating.
2. A high voltage traction battery module overheating.

Karl Goh · Jul 20, 2019

Patrick Wong said: ↑

What warning lights if any are on?

What you should be looking out for:
1. The inverter coolant pump motor having a short and overheating.
2. A high voltage traction battery module overheating.
Click to expand...

No lights. The car was parked at the supermarket in the sun during winter and driven within 1 min and i notice the smell that lasted for about 10 seconds.

Other than my dad noticed it while he was using 1 day, and that time i was at the supermarket, haven't notice the smell since. i use the car 5 days a week mostly short distance and maximum 1hr highway trips

Karl Goh · Jul 22, 2019

would it be A/C blower motor about to go?

Common 2G Problems, and What to Do About Them...

Hank Dietz New Member

Stoner Junior Member

Stoner Junior Member

padroo Senior Member

jerrymildred Senior Member

Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

Stoner Junior Member

padroo Senior Member

Stoner Junior Member

KatHeath New Member

KatHeath New Member

jerrymildred Senior Member

Jmack111 Member

hybridheidi New Member

jerrymildred Senior Member

padroo Senior Member

Karl Goh Junior Member

Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

Karl Goh Junior Member

Karl Goh Junior Member

About PriusChat

Quick Navigation

Like us on Facebook

Buy us a beer!

Useful Searches

Common 2G Problems, and What to Do About Them...

Hank Dietz New Member

Stoner Junior Member

Stoner Junior Member

padroo Senior Member

jerrymildred Senior Member

Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

Stoner Junior Member

padroo Senior Member

Stoner Junior Member

KatHeath New Member

KatHeath New Member

jerrymildred Senior Member

Jmack111 Member

hybridheidi New Member

jerrymildred Senior Member

padroo Senior Member

Karl Goh Junior Member

Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

Karl Goh Junior Member

Karl Goh Junior Member