Just replaced my brake actuator now have C1345 & C1368

Try braking in neutral for a few stops. The lockup feeling should go away

 

Do you have any Detail Codes (INFs) to go along with those thrown DTCs?

Here is the workup for C1345/66 and C1368/67 :

https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Prius%20Service%20Manuals%202004/%E4%BF%AE%E7%90%86%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C/04pruisr/05/21avn/cic13456.pdf

 

If you are interested in another experience. When I calibrated my actuator assy after my install it also made noises you are describing then it calibrated fine.
If you bought a used actuator this can complicate matters as you now wonder if it is another problem or the actuator.

I bought a used actuator off ebay and immediately sent it back after receiving it. It did not meet my expectations. I had studied this job and knew exactly what it involved and decided to bite the bullet and order a new one from Oalthe Toyota for $1,134 after seeing a used actuator assembly. The new uniit came with a new resister to match the supplied brake actuator.

If you replaced yours you know how complicated this job is. I would not buy any other parts or proceed until you know without a doubt you have a good actuator in place and no issues that were introduced during installation.

Your symptoms - not being able to calibrate the actuator point to the actuator as the problem. When my original failing actuation was in place I ran the calibration procedure just to familiarize myself with the procedure and see if it would clear the codes I was getting for the failing actuator. My results were what you are experiencing now.

Others have installed used actuators with some mixed results. I think installing a used actuator is a little like playing the lottery. As you are finding it introduces all sorts of unforeseen variables.. I do understand the cost considerations of a new actuator and hope your situation turns out for the best.

 

She might be right albeit from a very different point of view.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Didn’t someone else here have that same problem? I think he had to disconnect the battery after clearing the codes then run the linear offset I believe.

In fact I think the guy brought it to the Toyota dealer to bleed the brakes and they could not even fix it.

 

Here is the thread I was thinking of.

Failed To Air Bleed brakes with Techstream | Page 2 | PriusChat

Hope it helps, let us know either way.

 

That's great news. I am glad everything worked out for you and were able to fix your car. It is a big job to replace these actuators.You saved a lot of money doing this yourself.

 

How much was the replacement, and who was the ebay seller?

Thank you for updating!!

 

I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would share my experience. I bought a 07 prius from auction with codes C1256 and C1391. Identifix showed several people fixed the problem by either adjusting the rear brakes or performing the brake bleeding procedure with a scan tool, so I tried that first.

The Autel scanner I used would get almost to the end of the bleeding procedure and exit out before finishing (tried twice). The car drove the same after that, codes would come back after about 15 min. of driving. Then I tried to relearn the liner valve offset. this time, the procedure would not end. you are supposed to watch 3 amber dash lights (I think ABS, traction control, and (!) - it's been a while). while the procedure is running 1 light will be blinking slow and the other 2 will be blinking fast and you'll hear all kinds of noises. When it's done, all 3 lights should blink fast and then turn off. In my case the Autel showed "please wait", the lights were blinking 1 slow / 2 fast, and I could hear the pump and other clunking noises. It kept going for 15 minutes. I had to stop it before it killed my battery.

After that I got the C1345 and C1368 codes and my brakes almost completely stopped working. It seemed like the scanner was the problem, so I got a VCI cable with TIS software off Amazon. With techstream it kicked me out of the brake bleed procedure sooner, but completed it on the second try. when relearning the linear valve offset, it would get down to about 40 seconds and you would hear a loud clunk, the lights would stop blinking, procedure still failed.

I got a used ABS actuator assembly from pick-n-pull for $75. After installing it, the bleeding procedure and linear valve offset completed on the first try. It's been running good for over a month now.

 

Yeah.. right about at the 38s remaining mark is when mine gives up also.. Just like in the video from the OP. It seems it's sampling the pressures and tries multiple times to get an acceptable result but cannot. I have another used actuator arriving on Monday... fingers crossed.