1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Just replaced my brake actuator now have C1345 & C1368

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by timthecyclist25, Dec 9, 2018.

  1. timthecyclist25

    timthecyclist25 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2011
    47
    27
    0
    Location:
    Wetumpka, AL
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    I have a 2007 toyota prius with 204,000 miles on it, I was getting the following codes prior to replacing the brake actuator, C1391 & C1256.

    I have tech-stream and a yearly subscription to alldatadiy.com. I did everything according to the information on alldatadiy.com, I bled the actuator and reset the ABS. First I got the C1345 code, which I was just about to do the linear offset, once I did it. The C1345 & C1368 code is now there. My battery is good, I fully charged it prior to doing the bleed and linear offset, so I'm ruling that out. But there is something strange I must mention when I do the linear offset, when you go through the process and it does the 120 second countdown. The car was making all kinds of weird noises which sounds to be within the brake lines, clicking and knocking sounds. At approximately 37 seconds remaining of the linear offset, the abs & VSC lights stop flashing as well as the sounds within the brake system. the computer continues to do the count down. I have attached a link so you can see what I'm talking about. Now, apparently the C1368 leans towards replacing the skid Control ECU. Which to me doesn't make sense since before replacing the actuator. I wasn't getting this code. So, do ya'll think I should just replace the Skid control ECU and see if that fixes the problem, or is the used actuator from ebay that I just put in actually bad? It came with a 6 month warranty so that is a plus.

    link to video:


    I didn't realize you can't see the 12 volt battery voltage in the video, but it was reading 12.1-11.6 volts during the linear offset.
     
    #1 timthecyclist25, Dec 9, 2018
  2. timthecyclist25

    timthecyclist25 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2011
    47
    27
    0
    Location:
    Wetumpka, AL
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    On the plus side, I went to drive it around today and the actuator pump wasn't making the pumping sound every few seconds like it did before and the brakes worked but, they seemed off. As in, when you were almost to a stop they seemed to lock up. I didn't drive it far just down the street of my neighborhood and back.
     
    #2 timthecyclist25, Dec 9, 2018
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2013
    16,525
    8,428
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles, CA
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Try braking in neutral for a few stops. The lockup feeling should go away
     
    #3 JC91006, Dec 9, 2018
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2017
    5,302
    4,241
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    #4 SFO, Dec 10, 2018
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  5. timthecyclist25

    timthecyclist25 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2011
    47
    27
    0
    Location:
    Wetumpka, AL
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    The only detail code I get is 505 associated with C1368, no detail code given for C1345. I contacted the seller on ebay and they said I need to have it programmed by the dealership. I may take it into the dealership tomorrow and just bite the bullet on a few hundred dollars. I'm doing everything right, Once the actuator was installed. I recharged the 12v battery using a 2amp charger, took all night to do so, then I immediately did the brake bleed, actuator replaced part through tech stream. Then I reset the memory, turned the car off for 3 seconds and back on to IG only, not ready mode and went into the linear offset mode, from there like I said previously. The system makes all kinds of noises when its doing the calibrating till about 37-40 seconds remaining then it stops. No more flashing of ABS or VSC lights, the tech stream software continues to do the countdown and once done, it reads once the lights flash and stop then the calibration is complete. which like I mentioned before the lights stop with 37-40 seconds remaining of the calibration.

    I see the C1368/505 code could be assoicated with the Skid control ECU, which luckily I was able to pick one up from a pull a part shop in Birmingham, AL today. I still think its not the Skid control ECU but maybe I'm doing the programming wrong.
     
    #5 timthecyclist25, Dec 10, 2018
  6. John321

    John321 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2018
    1,285
    1,276
    0
    Location:
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    If you are interested in another experience. When I calibrated my actuator assy after my install it also made noises you are describing then it calibrated fine.
    If you bought a used actuator this can complicate matters as you now wonder if it is another problem or the actuator.

    I bought a used actuator off ebay and immediately sent it back after receiving it. It did not meet my expectations. I had studied this job and knew exactly what it involved and decided to bite the bullet and order a new one from Oalthe Toyota for $1,134 after seeing a used actuator assembly. The new uniit came with a new resister to match the supplied brake actuator.

    If you replaced yours you know how complicated this job is. I would not buy any other parts or proceed until you know without a doubt you have a good actuator in place and no issues that were introduced during installation.

    Your symptoms - not being able to calibrate the actuator point to the actuator as the problem. When my original failing actuation was in place I ran the calibration procedure just to familiarize myself with the procedure and see if it would clear the codes I was getting for the failing actuator. My results were what you are experiencing now.

    Others have installed used actuators with some mixed results. I think installing a used actuator is a little like playing the lottery. As you are finding it introduces all sorts of unforeseen variables.. I do understand the cost considerations of a new actuator and hope your situation turns out for the best.
     
    #6 John321, Dec 10, 2018
    Raytheeagle and SFO like this.
  7. timthecyclist25

    timthecyclist25 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2011
    47
    27
    0
    Location:
    Wetumpka, AL
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Thank you for that response, you just saved me a trip to the dealer which I was planning to do tomorrow. Your right, I was just about to order a brand new actuator during the black friday sales they had at toyotasouthatlanta and it was $1008 with free shipping. My wife talked me out of it and now I'm regretting it, lesson learned and now I know I can probably change out the actuator in half the time now.
     
    #7 timthecyclist25, Dec 10, 2018
    SFO likes this.
  8. James1964

    James1964 Member

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2018
    177
    83
    0
    Location:
    Vashon Island, WA
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    She might be right albeit from a very different point of view.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #8 James1964, Dec 10, 2018
  9. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2018
    2,912
    1,497
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Didn’t someone else here have that same problem? I think he had to disconnect the battery after clearing the codes then run the linear offset I believe.

    In fact I think the guy brought it to the Toyota dealer to bleed the brakes and they could not even fix it.
     
    #9 Skibob, Dec 11, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2018
  10. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2018
    2,912
    1,497
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    #10 Skibob, Dec 11, 2018
    SFO likes this.
  11. timthecyclist25

    timthecyclist25 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2011
    47
    27
    0
    Location:
    Wetumpka, AL
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Just an update, I sent the used actuator back and purchased another used one off of eBay with a 1 year warranty. This one worked perfectly! Thankfully it was the actuator.
     
    #11 timthecyclist25, Jan 30, 2019
    SFO likes this.
  12. John321

    John321 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2018
    1,285
    1,276
    0
    Location:
    Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    That's great news. I am glad everything worked out for you and were able to fix your car. It is a big job to replace these actuators.You saved a lot of money doing this yourself.
     
    #12 John321, Jan 30, 2019
    bobodaclown likes this.
  13. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2017
    5,302
    4,241
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    How much was the replacement, and who was the ebay seller?

    Thank you for updating!! (y)
     
    #13 SFO, Jan 30, 2019
  14. 1ADAM12

    1ADAM12 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2019
    2
    1
    0
    Location:
    San Antonio
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would share my experience. I bought a 07 prius from auction with codes C1256 and C1391. Identifix showed several people fixed the problem by either adjusting the rear brakes or performing the brake bleeding procedure with a scan tool, so I tried that first.

    The Autel scanner I used would get almost to the end of the bleeding procedure and exit out before finishing (tried twice). The car drove the same after that, codes would come back after about 15 min. of driving. Then I tried to relearn the liner valve offset. this time, the procedure would not end. you are supposed to watch 3 amber dash lights (I think ABS, traction control, and (!) - it's been a while). while the procedure is running 1 light will be blinking slow and the other 2 will be blinking fast and you'll hear all kinds of noises. When it's done, all 3 lights should blink fast and then turn off. In my case the Autel showed "please wait", the lights were blinking 1 slow / 2 fast, and I could hear the pump and other clunking noises. It kept going for 15 minutes. I had to stop it before it killed my battery.

    After that I got the C1345 and C1368 codes and my brakes almost completely stopped working. It seemed like the scanner was the problem, so I got a VCI cable with TIS software off Amazon. With techstream it kicked me out of the brake bleed procedure sooner, but completed it on the second try. when relearning the linear valve offset, it would get down to about 40 seconds and you would hear a loud clunk, the lights would stop blinking, procedure still failed.

    I got a used ABS actuator assembly from pick-n-pull for $75. After installing it, the bleeding procedure and linear valve offset completed on the first try. It's been running good for over a month now.
     
    #14 1ADAM12, May 3, 2020
    SFO likes this.
(You must log in or sign up to post here.)