Brake Actuator Replacement

It's been two days... Running a Health Check with Techstream displays no DTCs. 12V battery is fine. Can't jump car.

 

Sounds like now would be a good time to recharge the new 12v.

 

As I understand it, I should still be able to jumpstart the car if I have a weak battery. In my case, jumping has no effect. So I'm skeptical that the battery is the issue.

 

Is the above an accurate summary of your car’s current status or have some of the warning lights changed? What about the MFD display, what appears on that?

 

The red triangle showed up after we disconnected the 12V battery. Ran a scan and found P0A0D. So I checked and rechecked the orange safety plug - it's definitely installed correctly.

Other than that, yes, it's an accurate summary of my car's current status. Along with the red triangle on the dash, there is a red car symbol on the MFD display. That's new too and related to the P0A0D code I presume. Otherwise, it's just displaying my consumption screen (aka operating normally.)

 

Just in case..


What was the HV battery state of charge (SoC) when you first tore into the actuator for replacement?

 

I didn't think to check, so I'm not sure. On my "Consumption" display, the battery is ~2/3rds full. Is there a better way to check the state of charge?

 

Post #46 shows you that the orange traction switch lever has to be slid down to lock it in place. Did you do that?

That DTC points to a fault in the installation of that orange switch lever, or the inverter cover was not correctly installed, as a interlock switch is located below the cover.

Since you had to mess with both interlocks, there is a high likelihood that one or the other is causing this particular problem (additional problems might also be present.)

 

Found the culprit of the DTC code: the little plug on the inverter cover got bent during installation. Fixed that, and my car is running!!! All the lights are gone. No DTC. Sounds great! Here I was checking the orange plug a million times when the inverter plug was the issue.

 

Huge thanks to DrDoug and all who posted info in this thread. Reading this gave me the last bit of confidence needed to do the brake actuator swap in my 2005.

 

I just did this over the weekend based on your write up. I purchased an actuator on EBay as well as some more tools. It took me all weekend because I have never worked on a car other than to change the oil and to replace a side mirror. It’s fair to say I know nothing about cars. It was definitely a challenge but I persevered, and everything so far has turned out perfectly. I really appreciate you taking the time to write all that out. I used it with the manual I got at datadiy. The inverter coolant plug is actually 24mm by the way. I failed the initial brake bleeding process bc I loosened the brake drain plug instead of the valve(like I said I know nothing about cars) so I had to redo that part. I also drained my 12v battery while doing the process! I didn’t realize my headlights were on, so I had to go and buy some jumper cables. That was probably my lowest moment of it all, but I kept slogging. I also had the problem that the main relay was malfunctioning. It was bc I didn’t push down on top of the orange safety plug after reinsertion. You were also right about the manual not saying anything about how to get the brake fluid out of the lines. I performed the “zero down” then just opened both brake plugs. Seemed ok. Did I mention it was over 90degrees outside? ALL WEEKEND. I felt like I was in way over my head at many points, but once the actuator was actually in, putting it all back together was pretty easy. I didn’t even really have to refer to the manual about most of it. Anyway, thank you again.