What would you tell someone who is intimately familiar with Gen2 about the Gen3 to "catch them up"?

- more annoying oil changes - filter moved from the easy-to-reach side of engine to the hard side. Jack or ramps required. Get the socket that fits the filter cap.

- more annoying spark plug access - no sneaking them out without cowl removal first (except on right-hand-drive models, apparently).

- simpler cooling system - no separate radiator cap - the plastic jug is no longer just an overflow tank but part of the pressurized system with coolant circulating through it when warm. Air bleeding relatively painless. No more separate electric pump for the heater when engine is stopped; the engine's own water pump is now electric and serves both purposes. No belt on the engine. No more thermos with its pump and valve to cause trouble.

- price of no more thermos is an EGR system with exhaust-to-coolant heat exchangers to fuss with when they gunk up.

- hydraulic valve lash adjusters never need adjustment (only possible replacement if one stops working) - much more approachable for DIY.

- all three HVAC damper servos are now on the hard-to-reach side of the heater, instead of just one of them. But they're of a new design that shouldn't get jittery the way gens 1 and 2 can.

- ejector cycle A/C is even more efficient.

- inverter circuitry for the A/C compressor is now in the compressor instead of the inverter assembly. Inverter assembly is now less money; the compressor, more.

- no more handy unpluggable connector back at the aux battery

- learn how the rear disc brakes work.

- stock tire width increased by 10 mm.

 

Gen3 has 3-ft3 more space, much in the hatch area, so it is the cargo space king of cars in that size.
There is a plug-in version that retains moost of the cargo space.
Some like the gen2 better as far as the console between driver and front passenger.
Some say Gen2 is better built, but balancing that is the Gen3 fixes/improves a number of generic issues with Gen2. Gen2 the front seats do not go back very far, which gives the impression of more rear seat PAX space, but part of that is just because the front seat does not travel as far back.

 

pretty much the same car with a horrible flying bridge, a nice active hybrid synergy drive screen which helps improve mpg's, power/normal/eco drive options. and an ev button that is next to useless.
big loss of storage areas

no gas tank blatter!

 

PS- Reminds me that there is a terrific 2010 technical presentation YouTube video by Toyota when Gen3 came out detailing all the changes.

Too bad we can't keep getting presentations like that

 

Maybe this:

Prius Technology Video | PriusChat

 

Right, that, too. And hand in hand with that, fuel pump and level sender that you can even replace without replacing the whole tank! Don't even have to drop the tank ... there's a panel under the rear seat cushion for access to the pump and sender.

 

BUT, oil change interval increased to 10,000 miles with 0W-20 oil! Oil capacity increased to 4.4 Qts, so buy a 5 Gal jug at Walmart. Any brand 0W-20 is fine, even Walmart generic. Has new paper oil filter cartridge instead of metal spin on, and requires a new "socket" that fits the canister cap. Still need to replace the drain plug washer each time. Buy the 5-pack cartridges and 10-pack washers at Amazon.com

 

It needs to be Synthetic oil. And walfart brand is not a good choice. Castrol or Mobil1 would be a good choice.

 

You lose the spare tire with the plugin and most of the lower cargo space.

Mike

 

Neither of these are part-of-the-car; you can pick your oil and interval: double-up, go a bit heavier weight, whatever.

Yeah that does take a little extra care, can be finicky. O-ring can jump out of the groove when you're screwing the cap back in. And, a biggie: it is possible to put the cap back on without a filter inside. And when something's possible...

I didn't get that "memo", do just fine with my old Honda socket. It doesn't extend down onto the stiffeners with tricky extra slots, but doesn't seem matter. Fits Mazda oil filters too, lol.

Can't bring myself to do that: just buy them as I need them, from dealership. I did buy a pack of washers once, but returned them, they looked slightly like the Toyota washer, but more crudely made, rough edges, decided not to go there.

 

At least back when I first bought the car, in my looking around I was unable to find anyone offering a 0W-20 oil that wasn't synthetic. So that criterion seems easy to meet. In my market, I also didn't find any 0W-20 for less money than the full synthetic from the dealer in the bottle that says Toyota.

But also check the maintenance recommendations for the oil change interval in what's considered "severe service", which includes frequent short trips. It doesn't only mean autocrossing in the Sahara. My ordinary commuting usage qualifies as severe service, and I'm changing at 5,000 miles on the dot, pretty much like the old days. My oil has always noticeably darkened in that interval.

-Chap

 

Toyota USA or Canada don't say it has to be synth in the literature, not that I've seen anyway. They "allow" 5W20, which does come in non-synth, and again: no synth stipulation. Toyota Australia (for one) recommends 0W20, but also tips a hat to pretty much every weight, and once again, no mention of synth.

 

Was the bladder in the gas tank mentioned?

 

Nothing wrong with changing at 5000 miles, or using Toyota oil.
My oil just starts to change color around 8-9000 miles. I could probably change it at 15,000 and it would be fine.
But 10,000 is good for me. It's easy enough to do and inexpensive.
I think every manufacturer recommends synthetic oil. And the cost difference between it and non synthetic if minimum.
So it's worth it to run synthetic.

 

Maybe just on the dipstick. I'll wager if you drain a cup after 3000 miles and compare to new it'd look black as ink. Still, that just indicates it's doing it's job.

I've searched my 2010 (North American) Owner's Manual, the term "synth" appears twice, but referring to synthetic leather.

Checked also a 2017 Honda Fit Owner's Manual, it specified a grade and spec. Then at bottom of page says "You may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal
and is the specified viscosity grade". Not exactly a stipulation.

Checked also a 2018 Mazda CX-5 Owner's Manual: no mention of "synth".

 

But while not explicitly stated, 0w-20 is synthetic oil.

So by the transitive property, they are recommending synthetic oil.

 

Nowhere in Toyota's spec does it use the word "synthetic" That isn't to imply that you can find a 0W-20 that is not full synthetic. I realize that talking about oil or tire brands is as dangerous as talking about "religion" or "politics," but I stand by my statement that "store" brand 0W-20 is just as good as a "name" brand. They produce it at the same processing plants that produce the "name" brands, and sell it for less without the expensive advertising and branding...if you want to pay for all that advertising, be my guest.

 

Engineers that design the engine specify a certain spec for oil, just follow or exceed it and the engine will have a long happy life.

 

Meh, hair-splitting. They also mention the use of 5W20 (which can be either), and the Oz manual has pretty much the full gamut of oil. Second gen North American too, with 5W30, same story.

But then, changing the oil every 4~5K kilometers, I guess I could be using Maple Syrup, lol.