I thought of that myself. 100 ft lbs is a lot of torque, and those bolts are under a lot to stress. The heads are begging to pop off at that torque.
When you said "stripped", it 1st sounded like the threads were gone, but now it sounds like you really meant rounded. Okay. Other ideas from a 3 decades Aerospace Machinist. After the rounded bolt has been thoroughly soaked with a penetrant/fluid if there's room, use a little angle grinder to make your hex a little smaller, then use the next size or 2 down socket with breaker bar. Or, what's sure-fire, is to heliarc a big as practical peace of Steel onto the top of the rounded hex - then you have a decent way to grab ahold - with an open- end wrench or whatever. Plus, a lot of time, the weld Heat will significantly help with loosening a frozen Bolt. .
Same thing. Heliarc a Allen wrench into the round out out hole & you'll be good to go. That way you'll actually be able to put 2 wrenches box, ratchet, whatever on it (one on top of the other) - turning & pulling like they're a T-handle. Here, just took a picture .
I like it, but I think the OP is looking for something a little less high tech. Like stone knife and bearskin simple.
The issue is the head bolt is deep inside the the cast and there is no way to get a grinder in there. Welder is not available at this point. I did get the bolts (2) to do the first crack and then they rounded off. Having worked on many engines over the years from the 4 cly, 6 and 8's I know the meaning of a shagged bolt - theses are shagged 100% sure of it. I did try jamming feeler gauges in and hammering the allen shaft into the bugger. It just split the high grade steal lol... when I put the breaker bar on it. So I will go with what I have and thats the drill and some quality tipped drill bits - seeing as the bolts are rounded already If I kill it off so be it. I have plenty of parts to fit into the next oil burner/clatter case Prius motor! Plus all the photos to come will be worth it!
Yeah - It was an all angle tool bit I first used.... I really thought I had id done at first - but no it needed 2 cracks to undo! I got the right tool in the end and that worked on the others... just! Funny thing is the crank pulley came of easy and I was expecting that to be hard...
I like hills suggestion. Couple that with my impact gun gimmick and it will come out. It may take 30 mins of bumping the impact gun but eventually it will come loose. Patience.
The rope in the cylinder is a soft fill of the combustion chamber that the piston stops on allowing you to crack the crank bolt undone. The rope then pulls out with no damage to piston or valves.
When I was changing the clutch on my wife’s 4 Runner I broke off 2 exhaust studs on the drivers side exhaust manifold. I tried a stud extractor first and broke them both. Then i removed the manifold and tried welding bolts to the studs. No joy. Wound up having to drill them out. Sometimes the hard way is the only way. At least I had the option of removing that exhaust manifold.
So the head bolts drilled out just fine with small battery drill and some quality drill bits. A broken oil ring was the issue.. mashed up the piston and head a little. Crank looks fine.
Great photos, very interesting to see how much carbon accumulated at 278K miles. Did you have a chance to look at the camshafts to see what wear was present on the bearing surfaces and the cam lobes?
The bore looks great and still has cross hatch marks and almost no ridge to speak of. I think a quick hone and new rings and bearings will do just nicely to have a short motor ready to go. (and a replacement piston)
The camshaft bearings all looked very clean. The only bearing in the whole motor to have a score mark was 1 shell of No 3 main cap. I will do detailed photos in the next week or so with proper digital camera of all the parts. Seems not many motor pulled apart at this sort of miles for others to see.