I borrowed the picture from another forum. That shiny cover just back of the front tires came loose and was dragging on the ground. I stopped and pulled it off. What is it? Does it need to be put back on? There were no fasteners anywhere so I'm not sure how it goes back on. Thanks, Bob
The areas you've marked are actually just part of a single larger piece, per this mark up: There's four 10 mm (socket size) bolts at the front, and an assortment of plastic fasteners down the sides, and across the back. I'll attach a pdf with some info. Yeah I'd get it fixed. If you're missing just a portion, you can't replace just that, would need to get the whole thing. Is the car dealer serviced? Or maybe you ran over a curb?
If you're talking about the under tray, yes, it should be put back on. It uses plastic "push pins". Better take it to a dealer to get the pins and maybe have them put it on for you. It may be damaged.
Unless it was just the so-called "oil change door" which is part of the larger engine undercover. It is more likely this is what the OP is referring to, since it has been an issue in the Gen III.
That makes a lot of sense. That flap is here: Again, same thing applies, it's part of that larger piece. The "hinge" basically cracks/fails after a bit of use by dealerships or whomever, changing the oil. The plastic is too thin/brittle. If you get a new undercover, and want to preserve it: never use that flap, take the whole panel off, it'll last then.
If you do manage to resecure it, either with zip ties, or some sorta tape, the fasteners that are needed are two of the larger, grey-headed ones: (excerpt from the pdf attachment up the page) I had another idea, which was to unscrew the coil binding from an exercise book, then drill a series of holes to suit, on either side of the hinge, and screw the coil onto it.
You can re-attach the oil change flap using various fasteners. These fasteners also make oil changes much easier. Link to great thread with directions, and a YouTube video.
Yup, once it's broken there's things you can do. I prefer to just take the whole cover off each time tho. I've done nothing but DIY oil changes, maybe 10 so far, and it goes pretty quick.
Do you pull that apron off with the car on jack stands, or do you have a lift? Because it's a pain to do when you're lying on your back. I like the idea of putting a hinge on the door and using rare earth magnets to hold the door. Then I can pop the oil flap right off and change my oil.
I just have the front end up on jack stands, albeit fairly tall jack stands, 6 tonners fully bottomed out, they just squeeze under. I find it's best to remove the rearmost fasteners first, then work your way forward, finally remove the 4 bolts at the front. Install is the opposite, just leave the bolts loose till all the fasteners are pushed back in, helps with alignment. Also, religiously wash out the plastic fasteners in hot soapy water any time they're off. Doing this every 6 months, I've yet to bust a fastener, and removing the whole panel takes 5~10 minutes tops.
Oooh, REAL hinges! And maybe Dzus fasteners? Mine hasn't broken yet, and I fold it right up against the car when open (there is provision for using the push pins to hold it there). I even "crease" the hinge. Maybe they used better plastic in the 2012 "redo"?
Sorry for the confusion. The photo I borrowed had some places marked. The piece that fell off is the shiny metal piece in back of the engine cover and directly between the jack stands. Here's a picture.
That's pretty uncommon. You can purchase replacement fasteners from your Toyota dealer -- they just snap in -- and easily reinstall it yourself. Make sure your car has cooled off before you crawl under it.
That's a new one. First time for everything, i guess. As mentioned, just get some new clips and reattach...
Boy did I go off on a tangent. Expect sticker shock when you pick up the fasteners from the dealership. You can phone several dealership, there can be a range of mark up, some are better.
