....than it would with normal use... Deep cycling the HV battery kills it. Here are the things I've found deep cycles it: 1. parking the car overnight with the battery at or near two bars. Because: If in a hot climate the A/C uses alot of power at startup and deep cycles the battery upon startup. Solution: don't park the prius with a nearly dead HV battery indicated. 2. Hitting the button and taking off right away. Because: the engine will not rev up if cold and you press less than halfway into the pedal. You will suck down the Hv battery and the A/C will further deep cycle it. Solution: Either wait for the engine to warm up some before taking off or pound the gas pedal fully momentarily to overcome the programmed idle-til-warm mode. 3. Leaving your A/C on when someone takes your car through the car wash. They put it in neutral and ignore the low battery alarm. When they put it back in drive or park the alarm stops. You get in and known not what they have done. Solution: turn the A/C off for the car wash. Avoid these things that deep cycle the battery to help it last longer. Anybody have any others?
does the nimh battery like being fully, medium, or discharged? otoh, the longest lasting batteries seem to be northern taxi drivers, who beat the living dickens out of them.
Your thinking what the screen shows is the actually charge level rate and it's nowhere close to what it says. It is software protected so it won't allow hyper discharge or hyper charge.Toyota has done all the work for you. The cars software will not allow the battery to get anywhere near deep cycle depleted to prevent The battery from seeing excessive heat Only way to deep cycle the battery is to manually discharge It using a system like Prolong. Same for the charge cycle.
Have to agree with edthefox5 here...from using my scangauge the AC draw may have dropped the SOC from 39% charge when parked at the lowest I ever did to maybe 36% for a split second. The car does its best to protect it...probably the only real concern to worry about mentioned in the OP is the car wash scenario and even then it would take at least a few minutes to get to very low levels. For option 2, at very low SOC (around 40% or 2 bars) the startup seems to work differently - the engine doesn't wait 10 seconds to come on for example. I would worry more about parking it for hours in the heat at a higher SOC, like 70% (7 bars) as it could become heat soaked.
Yes the top and bottom charge buffer levels for the Hybrid battery are very conservative. They do not want constant topping off or deep discharge which is heat...tends to distort the battery cases and eventually they fail. When you see zero battery charge level its really got about 35 % soc left so you can't kill it try as you might. It won't allow you to use it to protect itself from you. Same for the top charge when you see full its still about 25% away from 100% full. Again...to protect itself from you. Normal charging causes heat on these battery's thats why the battery vent fan runs all the time too. So low you can't hear it but its running. It runs faster as the battery's heat up. If you ever hear that fan running in the back its because you have let the cabin temp become excessive. Charge wise There's nothing you can do to hurt the battery if its unhappy the engine comes on. Unless of course if you leave it in neutral. No one can help you there. Eventually the car shuts off. Only thing that you can control is like Kram says the one big enemy is heat exposure. Want to help your hybrid battery life get the darkest tint you can and always use a sun shade in the windshield to limit cabin heat. The HEAT SHIELD they sell here at PC Shop is the best it is insulated and form fitted to the windshield. I don't get out of the car without that in the window. It cuts cabin heat dramatically. It will keep the interior looking brand new.
Yes, but even partial cycling will decrease battery life because there are finite numbers of cycles. You can have either hundreds of deep cycles or thousands of shallower cycles, but there is no free lunch. You forget heat kills battery and northern climate is like keeping them fresh in fridge. Another point is, If you need to move, one needs to press that gas pedal hard and wake up the ICE. EV and creeping starts eat battery unnecessary. In city, I do pulse and glide (no EV effort) all the time.
I agree with the OP ... but the simple way to say it is, warm the car up a few minutes before you pull out is a good idea, especially when you think the HV battery is lower. Where I see it is if the car is sitting say a week, and you just pull out with A/C on, yes you will quickly be in the purple bars on a Gen2. So in that case what you want to do to be easy on the battery: turn car on, optionally maybe turn A/C off, and sit there while the system turns the ICE on for about 2 minutes, then the ICE goes off, now pull out.
The way I do it, I press the gas pedal as soon as I start up the car. This way ICE warms up while I slowly drive out of garage or parking lot.
Internal Combustion Engine. When it runs, it not only provides traction but it also charges your Hybrid Battery.
ICE is more succinct than engine, cus you never know: someone mighta dropped in a steam engine or similar.
Yeah, we could be even more succinct and only use the "E" of "ICE," considering the last car with an external combustion engine was a Stanley Steamer. People like to be pretentious, though.