Speedometer display not working

I have a 2007 Gen II Prius and the upper front display quit working. This is the one with the speedometer, odometer, and gas gauge (HUD?). This has happened before and come back on it’s own but after a month of not working it appears permanent.

Clues and info:
1- The smart remote quit working around the same time but not exactly the same time. I have to use the hard key to open the door and insert the fob to start the car. (And yes, I have checked the battery and tried my 2nd fob)

2- When I start the car, the yellow check engine icon lights up on the dash for a couple of seconds then disappears. After starting, the only light on the dash display that is lit is the far right airbag light.

3- With the exception of the missing dash display, the car shifts and runs fine.

4- The center (MFD?) display works fine except the consumption/MPG functions don’t change (stays on the MPG when it quit working).

5- When I turn on the headlights, the center square display (MFD? radio, climate, etc) dims.

6- About 50% of the time, I have to hold the power button down for 8 secs or so before it shuts off.

7- I have checked as many threads as I could find but have not found a good answer to this problem.

Things I’ve ruled out:
1- both batteries, the hybrids and 12v, are less than 10 months old.

2- nothing is blocking the dash display.

3- the dimmer is all the way bright.

So any ideas as to the problem and the fix?

The easy answer is the display needs replacing. But if that were the case, why do I need to to hold the power button down several seconds (emergency shutoff) in order to power off?

 

Isn’t the combo meter part of the MFD (center square display above radio)? Since my Multi Function Display works (climate, radio) how would this affect my forward speedometer display? The only problem with the MFD is the info/MPG part doesn’t work. Are you saying that if that 1/4 of the MFD doesn’t work (but the other 3 work fine), then the entire forward dash display (speedo, fuel level, odo) all stop working?

And to reiterate, the 12v is new, installed by the local dealer, tests perfectly, and is NOT the problem.

 

If a faulty display turns out to be the culprit, how difficult is it to remove? I try to do most of my own work as well. But if they display is bad, why do I have to hold the power button to turn off?

 

Go away Skibob, you’re rude and unhelpful. I’ve spent weeks looking through posts trying to find answers to no avail. The sole reason for forums is to help others and you are not very good at it.

Comments such as; “If you look through the posts you will see your problems many times...Do some homework” are just non-answers from forum elitists attempting to flaunt some sort of delusional superiority. I am the OP and created this thread precisely because I couldn’t find answers in previous posts. If you don’t have the problem and solution yourself, let someone who knows the answer contribute.

To those of you who have ACTUALLY had this problem AND solved it, what did you do?

 

Thank you very much! Just what I needed. I’ve already taken the left side of the dash off when I hardwired my radar detector (see my post for info) so I know a bit about the fragile vents and plastic.

Thanks again- both of you!

 

Just an add-on note re. getting by until replacement.

I found out that if I fiddle with the car power/start button, I can get the speedometer (combo meter) to come on for a day or two. If you turn the car on WITHOUT pressing the brake first and THEN turn it on with the brake pressed, the combo meter will come on. It usually doesn’t work when it’s really cold (first start of the day) but will usually work after I have driven it around awhile. By doing this I’ve been able to get it to come on every day whereas before it wouldn’t come on for weeks.

I think the diy route is more than I want to get into right now so I am going to buy a refurbished combo meter and have the local Toyota dealer put it in ($300 labor).

Does anyone have a recommendation for a refurbished combo meter seller? From what I’ve read, the problems may be caused by a bad capacitor that faults when it gets too cold. I assume some sellers replace these using better parts and would like to get an “improved” version.