Uh oh... Hood cable broken! Is there an easy way to manually get the hood open?

You've confirmed it's not the lever underneath the driver's dash? On mine I accidentally dislodged the "ring" that seats the tensioner wire in the plastic lever to release the latch. There are two parts IIRC - one that holds the outer sleeve and one that holds the inner wire. I'd take a close look at this first.

Otherwise my first guess is to remove the bottom grill on the front of the car and reach in and up and see if it can be released this way. Also might search for the same problem for Corollas, Matrix's and Echos and see if something pops up. The Prius shares so many parts with these cars it might give you the info you need (I followed a tutorial for a Corolla to fix my clock spring and it worked great!).

 

I have exactly the same issue. I messaged nssdiver, but no response so far (this is why we should post solutions publicly). Did you finally get this resolved? I kind of need to get into the engine compartment.

 

I appreciate the reply. Can you explain the slit in the plastic shroud part? Does it involve getting something between the hood and the grille? I ask because I had hood latch corrosion issues despite regularly lubricating the latch and the hood sits pretty flush to the body where the latch is.

It's freezing temperatures outside and I'm a little hesitant to start the job until I have a pretty clear picture of what's going on.

 

I appreciate it.

 

You mean you don't want to go back out into the torrential downpour of slush? Agree, pretty rough!

 

The reason it broke was it was never lubricated. Spray lube the hell out of the new mechanism after installing it and then shoot some spray lube into the drivers side key hole on the door. Someday battery will die and you will need the mechanical key to open the door. Lots of folks then find that lock is hopelessly corroded.
Lube the door and hatch hinges and hatch lock. Hatch lock goes bad too from lack of lube.

Basic car maintenance 101.

 

Thanks for the reminder, edthefox5. It's only been 3 years with my 2016, but I better try the manual key and see if it works.
WD-40 is your friend. Locks & hinges.

 

Spray some lube in the hole first. It’s going to be cranky. While your at it go to Lowes and make a copy of that key and put it away or in a metal key hide box under the car. You lose the fob or fobs your screwed.
Shit happens. Apparently based on this forum it happens a lot.

Much much better product than WD40 it’s called Corrosion Stop Preventer available at Home Depot.
It doesn’t stink like WD and is a heavier viscosity than WD so it stays where you spray it. It’s grease unlike WD which is basicly kerosine, stinky kerosene. Very poor lubricant.
I use CSP constantly on my cars and the house and we buy it by the case at work. If it moves it gets sprayed. It does exactly what it says it does prevents corrosion.

It’s made by PB BLASTER and the can says CSP on it.

Spray all the house door hinges they will last years longer. I spray a little bit on my tools after using them.
In Florida you throw your tool in the tool box dry you go back 3 months later and it’s corroded.

I use it on my guns too. If you don’t keep your guns lubed up down here they corrode too.

 

Sounds good. Thanks very much.

 

I like to use up what I have. I have some garage door chain and roller lube, goes on liquid and gels. Think I'll take a look at ours, see if I can figure out where the rub points are.

 

For anyone else who needs to replace their cable, here is the part diagram:







Description:
2004-2009 Prius
Release Cable - Toyota
Part #53630-47030


A few random listings:
Release Cable - Toyota (53630-47030) | Toyota Parts
53630-47030 - Genuine Toyota CABLE ASSY, HOOD LOCK CONTROL

 

WD-40 is bad for locks! It dries and causes crap to stick. Use a light spray oil such as tri-flow.

 

I recall from my motorbike days: hang the (sheathed) cable vertical, create a little funnel with tin foil, drizzle in oil, a drop or two at a time, till it started trickling out at the bottom.

I don't think full removal would be warranted with an installed cable, but maybe a variation on that theme.

 

I want to thank @nssdiver and @Priusyipee for their help in identifying the three retaining bolts for the hood latch that need to be removed to open the hood.

Here are some well-lit pictures I took of mine for posterity's sake. I haven't actually removed them yet - my parts haven't come in yet at the moment.

Upper right and center bolts:


Left bolt: