HV battery cooling fan fault and fix

I think probably Ed the Fox was right on the cause. I forgot to mention, on heavy corrosion, one of those brass or steel brushes also clean up well. Nice Job.

 

The fan is speed variable, isn't it? So I can just stick it on 3 and will it be fine when it gets warmer? It wouldn't burn out the motor though? As the original fan was ''sticky'' or stubborn to move when low amperage was applied.

 

I only run mine on '6' (full blast), otherwise I let the ECU take over and self adjust as needed. I think of the fan as being cheaper/easier to replace then the HV battery.

After cleaning the fan, I think @edthefox5 mentioned taking the sticker off the spindle and applying a few drops of light weight machine oil. Might just keep it turning longer.

 

Well, I wonder if I could say if I spoke too soon. ... The problem is back, most likely from a combination of rain somewhere again and too vigorous of a wash out with the electrical cleaner. Tried to rinse and repeat the process. In doing so I found the connector damaged, I think. The brown wire is detached and the blue stuff (be it corrosion or filler) is gone.

 

Did you find the source of the leak?
The body seams near the top of hatch of the hatch are often the culprit. Use body sealant to cover the gaps.

 

I wasn't sure, all I had was my head up there and any light that got in. I did use silicon in a tube everywhere I went, and then I wrapped a small, clear plastic bag over it. Anyways, I think that's past recovery. It used to work when it got hot and dry enough, but after taking a break from driving this time of year whatever that did work doesn't now.

I only have to drive 30 miles before it gets to that 36C point. Looking at other pages here that existed long before:
Brake, VSC, ABS, ((!)) lights on | Page 3 | PriusChat
Battery Fan Problem - Can you help me save $600? | PriusChat
Master, VSC, Brake and Hybrid Indicators On - Help | Page 2 | PriusChat

I'm feeling quite daunted by what to do with what I have. Splicing wires, salvaging the harness. The car is still useful for 70% of what it does, but it's looking dire which it shouldn't for a perfectly mechanically sound car, even after 160,000 miles. And all because of a rusty wire behind the interior.

And of course, without this problem reliably fixed, I shouldn't even think of a HA balancer yet.

 

Hi guys, I watched a video on how to try and open the left rear side of the car.
After watching this link below at 4:11. It seems that connector is not connected to the fan operation. That's for the light right?, as mentioned by JC91006 in the first comment.

Can someone please clarify this as my car is the 2006 model.
I'm presuming it's the same design from 2004-09.
Thank you

 

The connector on the left is the light.

 

I think it's the connector on the right you want....does anyone have a diagram for the hatch wires? I wonder if you need to trace the wire to the next connector.

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08 was on the passenger side I only had two green pins

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Thanks Andy..you are a genius.. Had same problems...checked mine and same problem.I dumped connecter. 4 euro fix and problem sorted.. Thanks mate

 

Hi.this connector is for the hybrid system.just repaired mine.cut out corroded connector and used small connectors..this switched off warning lights on the dash.also enabled the fan to start operating again.have ran it for 8hour shifts last three days.and all seems fine..this connector is not for the lights.. It is coming from the hybrid battery where the bi metal switch is located to switch on fan when battery gets too hot..it is routed through the ECU beside the secondary battery on the opp side.beside the wheel well..

 

Picture?

 

Easy to prove, just disconnect it and you will see the answer on the dashboard... This connector definitely one of the main sources. Mine one wasn't even badly corroded as some above, only a thin film on the surface of the components and that was enough to stop the process. Even though I've been able to turn on/off the fan manually trough on the OBD interface did not started automatically.

 

I also have a corroded hv fan connector. How did you clean it? Did you replace it? Sorry if I missed your explanation in the text

 

Clean if possible, or bypass the wires with butt splice connector.

 

Hi Everyone
I have same problem and wondered if anyone know where to buy this culprit connector
Kind regards
Arshad

 

Sorry it is maybe too late, but same as others aid, as mine wasn't badly "rusted" I just used ordinary electrical cleaner and a brass wire brush. Then when I confirmed it was fixed, i covered with lanolin spray which keeps the moister out for a while. It worked me very well on boat electronics and seems to be ok on this one too.
I hope you sorted out yours as well.

 

if you not too fuzzy about to disconnect it in the future, and it is badly damaged, the easiest, cheapest and most effective way to skip the connector and solder the wires together. Obviously you have to insulate them ...

 

Hi
Repaired the faulty connector and drove around 10 miles and VSC light is back again. Please advise as I have also checked HV cooling fan and that was working ok. The light will go away overnight but will come back again anytime.