EGR Cleaning: What did I get myself into?

The longer you work on cars and the more you work on, you find short cuts.
parts they say remove, you don't always have to remove. Sometimes just loosen.
I've replaced many a/c hoses without removes parts that were supposed to be removed.
When you are flat rate, the less you can do, the faster you can do it, the more money you can make.
That panel is there so you don't have to remove the whole cover. I agree the plastic "hinge" will
eventually tear and brake off. You could always screw on a metal door hinge before it brakes off.

 

Much easier, in my experience, is to make it removable, using a couple of sheet-metal straps and screws. That solves the problem of the flap requiring the car to be lifted so high for adequate clearance.

 

I just take the whole panel off. Bent that little flap the first time, decided never again: the whole panel was flexing/fighting. Removing the whole panel goes fast once you're used to it, and allows you to check for engine/transaxle leaks, better view of the inner CV joint boots, and so on. Just take care removing the plastic fasteners, and rinse them free of grit before reinstalling.

 

where is it located
sir? may I get some pics?

 

Here's a picture from the Repair Manual. An actual picture is more-or-less impossible, it is so buried:




Watch @NutzAboutBolts video on EGR cleaning; it's just barely possible to get a finger tip on it. In the video he eventually (during reinstall I believe) reaches his left hand around, reaching around clockwise, and is able to touch it.

Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat
(video #17)

It's about halfway along the EGR cooler, there's a largish diameter engine coolant hose coming out right next to it, just ahead of it if I recall correctly. To the right of that area is a lot of obstructions too, so fishing in a ratchet and extension to break the nut loose is also maddening.

I've watched also @Ragingfit 's videos where he swaps in a fourth gen engine into third gen. He uses his third gen EGR system, and none of it's the bolt locations work with the fourth gen engine, so his EGR, the cooler, valve and pipe, is free-spanning, from the connection at the exhaust manifold, to the connection at the intake manifold. Basically a little "bridge".

What that says to me is maybe, once you get the cursed lower EGR cooler nut off, you could walk down your driveway, and fling it, hahahahah.

 

In the 6 or so cooler swaps I’ve done, I have developed a collection .

Guess what part I collect?

Might be doing another one soon, so the collection will be growing.

 

I put mine back on, and torqued it good.

But next time, if there ever is a next time...

 

Can you soak the parts in chem dip? That would get them spotless.

 

Yeah same here. Most everything except the EGR cooler can be done with just brake cleaner and brushes/rags. I try to minimize use of that stuff, use less spray and more scrubbing. It's nasty stuff: the chlorinated is more carcinogenic, the non-chlorinated more flammable.

With the cooler, going straight to strong/hot Oxi-Clean solution soaks, it's less toxic and more effective: win-win. Oxi-Clean (water soluble, powdered laundry additive, moderately basic) is very benign.

Be careful with the EGR valve too: it has electronics under the black-plastic cap, so don't spray anything directly at it's seam. I wouldn't bother with disassembly either; it's screws are tough, and the insides a little tricky/delicate.

 

No electronics under the cap, just metal and magnets.

And an impact screwdriver takes those screws off.

The whole job is fiddly, but the removal of the cap and spring allows for moving the plunger of the egr to ensure the chamber of the valve is cleaned.

 

I managed to work around, gently pry the valve face off the seat, spritz in brake cleaner, run a rag tip around. It's more fiddly, but reachable. I know, but I just figured let sleeping dogs lie.

 

What'd you use to pry on the valve face?

Know that when prying on the valve, you risk scoring the surfaces, then promoting "leak by".

While not as critical in this service, I work with things that you don't want leak by, so if there is a way to actuate the valve without damaging surfaces, I recommend that route.

A good practice.

 

Isn't most brake cleaner acetone based?

 

"Isn't most brake cleaner acetone based?"

Nope: Wiki

 

Sorry Bay Starter that I need your threat for some ERG cleaning experiences.

I'm about to clear my 97k miles EGR cooler need next week.

I don't have Hose Pinch pliers to pinch those coolant hose. Do you guys think it could drain out 1qt of coolant or more if without pinch it?
What size of E-torx socket to remove those Stud Bolts I need to buy?

 

Definitely let us know how it goes and how the EGR cooler looks. I'm at 98,500 on my 2010.

 

I'd say 2 quarts to be safe .

And E8 torx is what you want.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I purposely drained 2 liters before pulling coolant hoses off the EGR cooler, and this dropped the coolant level below the EGR system, didn't spill a drop. You do need to lift out the cooler without tipping: there's a little collant trapped at the lower/rear corner. Pour that into the previous drain.

When done, pour it all back into the coolant reservoir. I would suggest to leave the top hose off the cooler, to act as air vent, till coolant starts coming out, then quickly reconnect (2012 and onward don't have an air bleed bolt). Burp the main coolant hoses a bit as you pour, might help. Coolant level will end up slightly high in the reservoir, but should return to normal with a day or two driving.

FWIW: when you clamp the EGR cooler coolant hoses, then pull them off, you're then looking at all the coolant above, in the cooler itself, draining out...

E8 for the EGR studs. E6 is needed for the throttle body studs, if you are taking off the throttle body, doing the intake manifold. It is NOT necessary to pull coolant hoses off the throttle body by the way, they have enough play that you can just lift the throttle body off and tie it to the inverter.