Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

Very well done. I did not/could not video mine, but did extensive write up of my swap.

To think that my swap came to pass simply because someone said no, and I had to “prove them wrong” still gives me chills.

It just goes to show anything is possible if you put your mind to it.

 

Nice work

The v has a higher numerical final drive ratio to increase load rating and has a modified AC system to increase btus

 

Curious, I thought the V set up had like 20 more horsepower because of it's size car. I'm sure it's in the computer programming anyhow.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

@Ragingfit needed to transfer the flywheel over, when doing the swap with Prius v. IIRC his first swap was Prius/Prius, and I got the sense he wasnt expecting the need to swap the flywheel. So maybe that different flywheel in a v is at least part of the different "gearing"?

 

Nice! It's 10 Parts now with more "in the can". It may top out at 25 parts. Lots of editing. I just let the camera roll.

 

Ah, you're not done.

 

Episode 11 uploaded, thanks.

 

Looking good. Seeing all this makes me feel like I “cheated” reusing my head over again.

Waiting for the next installment.

 

I rebuilt and destroyed the old engine in my black 2012 Prius v. My oil pump failed to prime. I can tell you, rebuilding the engine was way harder and added about a week to the job. I would not recommend an engine rebuild for a newbie.

 

Watched that, like the "special place in hell" comment, lol.

I keep thinking there's another motor mount (or two?), down at the bottom, fore (and aft?). They're kinda like torque arms. Are they involved when removing the engine, or do they connect to the transaxle? I'm going to do my fall oil change in a week or two, mean to take a look, but curious to know.

 

Only the top / crank end motor mount. All others are on the transaxle.

 

@Tideland Prius , episodes 12 through 15 are now uploaded on YouTube, I think that's it, @Ragingfit ?

One more quote, maybe paraphrasing a bit:

"I think we're out of the woods..., but, sometimes I like it in the woods..."

 

That's it for now. Maybe a condensed version after more editing.

 

Stupid question, buy hey:

When you disconnect the engine from the transaxle, and then later reconnect them, I have this recollection that you just remove all the connector bolts, separate the two, and vice-versa when putting it back together. That's it, just putting them together, the two interfaces lock or whatever? The orientation of the internals sorts itself out?

 

There are two large dowel pins at the top of the transaxle case that line up with cast holes in the top of the engine block. The top of the engine lays back almost 30 degrees, or somewhere close to that.

 

So that aligns the cases, and that's all that's required? What I'm wondering about is the "innards": just bringing the engine back in contact with the transaxle , everything is as it should be, meshes? It must be: I did say it's a stupid question, lol.

 

Oh, one only needs to get the splines engaged between the transaxle damper and the transaxle input shaft. I rotated the crankshaft by the pulley bolt as my assistant watched the gap between the engine and transaxle. It closed up on it’s own as the splines lined up.

 

@Ragingfit : Could you just disconnect the tail end of the exhaust, leave the EGR valve and cooler connected (just take off the egr pipe with intake manifold), and lift the engine out complete with egr and exhaust? Or does complete EGR removal improve access, say for the bolts hold transaxle to engine, hoses, whatever.

Addendum:

I think there's a clue, in the way the salvage engines come, complete with exhaust and egr still bolted on.

 

You can leave the exhaust and EGR on. It will clear with a little “wiggle” room. I chose to take the exhaust off mine when I extracted it. But yes, seems most yards pull them with the exhaust, UNLESS they drop the whole assembly out the bottom and then separate them.