This is how i connected the hose that went to the s pipe. It's the factory lower hose connector that came with the engine I purchased from a 16 prius two. The piece is made of plastic and has a water temp sensor that is o-ringed and held on by a metal clip. I removed the sensor and the plastic that the metal clip snapped into then tapped the hole to 1/8th inch npt. I got a 1/8th in npt to 3/8" hose barb fitting to finish the connection point. It will also bolt to the trans with a little cleanup on the plastic mount flange.
I've created a new thread in the Prius v Accessories and Modifications section Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v | PriusChat
Yeah, I just want to say thank you (plural) for the input. The idea of putting a 4th gen engine into a 3rd gen car had crossed my mind. But I don't have a lot of extra time, or patients sometimes!! I think I'll look for a fairly low mile engine and probably change the pistons/rings, gaskets, and water pump in hopes of eliminating any similar problems in the near future. I did just order a pair of leather front seats from a 16 model that I hope will be living in my 06 model soon!
Changed the oil in mine today at 2950 mile since install and it caused a huge problem. I can't read the oil level on the dipstick anymore!!! LoL Going on a trip in two weeks and weather was perfect for changing the oil today. Don’t know what it’s going to be like in two weeks.
Pull the dipstick, and wait 5 minutes before putting it back in for the check. The Prius dipstick tube is prone to draw the oil up when you remove the the dipstick the first time. With that wait you'll at least have a more distinct level; view it in good light, try both sides. When I do an oil change I tend to put in the proscribed amount, and don't check it right away, wait a day or two at the least.
It’s too clean. I have to wrap a paper towel around it and measure how far it goes up the towel is what I meant.
I did find casting sand in the filter I took out. Just a very small amount. Leads me to believe the short block had not made it to its first oil change before ending up in the salvage yard. That means it should power my Prius for a very long time.
I bought 2017 prius 2 engine for my 2010 prius one. Mine has cylinder 2,4 misfire. I have couple of questions. 1- what is the torque on flywheel and damper 2- how does the engine and transaxle align with it self. Does it take lot of force to trun the crankshaft by truning pulley?
This thread is the best thread ever. Anyone want to do the swap for me when the time comes? I'm in CA.
Read through this thread: Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v | PriusChat I know I asked that second question myself, and the answer's in there, fielded by @cnc97 I believe. It's virtually self-aligning, maybe giving it a bit of a jiggle, and/or turning the crankshaft slightly, and it'll mesh. Also, @Ragingfit lists most of the torque values, for sure all the critical ones, in the course of the videos (15 of them). If you're still stumped up I can look it up in my pdf manual, post whatever you need.
I started tearing apart the wire harness and i know i shouldnt have done to the fuel rail but its junk anyways i didnt care. The intake manifold was full of oil and coolant mix which same color can be also found in the oil fill port. The bolts for the engine cover on bottom are all rusted and took an hour to get off. Next is the coolant and then the stupid dreadded bolt for the egr
I stripped the transmission bolt. The botls are so rusted. I did let pb blaster on there for good 15 minutes but still wouldnt budge. What are my options?
Anyone from cali who can help me source out a cheap prius 4 engine and also can do the swap for me? Just got a prius gen 3 and the seller didnt tell me it has gasket leaks and has an hv battery issue. So im too much money deep into the car and bow im running without a thermostat just to not overheat. Im planning to just do the gen 4 engine swap so i can keep the prius.
I had 2) of mine break on my first swap. I decided to remove the engine before addressing the broken bolts. 1) Remove the engine, 2) heat the broken bolt with a torch, 3) remove bolt with vice-grips.
My only suggestion is to heat the trans housing near the bolt, not directly on the bolt. The bolt is already stuck, don’t make it expand and bind tighter. I guess my car having been a Florida car before I got it means I only had to deal with falling sand and not broken bolts. LoL