How to Program a New Key Fob for Full SKS Functionality

One more successful Chicken Dance. Thank you to all who posted in this thread, and especially to usnavystgc who got the whole thing going.

 

And another successful chicken dance - after the dealer said it was a defective key!

I bought a NEW key on Amazon from Conicelli Toyota in PA. I took it to a local dealer to get it programmed to my car (along with a used key that only worked in the immobilizer). Since I did not have a master key, I knew that they had to do the re-seed and expected it.

After working on the new key and my original key for over 2 hours, they came out and said that they could not program either one. they said it was because my original key was used and the new key was also probably a used key. They happened to have a key for my car in stock and they tested by programming it and it worked fine. They then said that if they had both keys (the new one they programmed and my "defective" new one) in the car at the same time, the car would not start via proximity - the key needed to be in the slot. If they removed my "defective" key, their key worked correctly. This proved that it was definitely my new key and it was most likely already programmed to another car.

So, I decided to buy their new key (they even threw in laser-cutting the backup key at no charge) and then return the key I bought from Amazon.

After I got home, I decided to try the chicken dance on the "defective" key to verify it before returning it. Imagine my surprise when it programmed correctly on the first try and all functions worked! So, for all you smart people, any idea why they couldn't originally program it? I know it is different making it the first master key and adding it later, but could it have an issue where they can't program it with Techstream as the first key but I could add it with the chicken dance as the second key? They did say over and over that they can't program a used key, even with a re-seed. Of course, I didn't have any Techstream directions with me to give them to show them how.

 

My Chicken Dance worked, eventually. The embedded videos helped me get Procedure A down correctly. I was waiting a couple of seconds between insertions and removals of the good key and then I saw in the video that he was just putting the key in and out about as fast as he could. Once I did that I managed to get the anti-theft light to go steady on.

In Procedure B the locks cycled almost immediately after Step 9a and then after 9c, the timing was such that I didn't think it worked. I'm not sure which iteration of Procedure B actually worked...

 

It perfectly worked for my 2008 Touring Prius.
I just want to mention one thing is, I thought I got stuck with non-working key after doing steps for engine start /stop function (I bought from Amazon used it was half the price and only one available).

Reason is after finishing those steps , I was trying to start a car without inserting fob into slot. But late I found from somewhere that after first set of steps done it works with inserted key only; as we are still left with steps for smart key program.

Once I inserted key in slot it worked fine, and I was able to finish smart key program also in first try.

Thanks a lot for very very accurate steps and guidance.

 

Welcome to PC and congrats!
Are you saying that you bought a used silver logo key from Amazon and were able to program it for full SKS functionality (after doing parts A & B)?

 

There are two stages involved in adding a SKS key to the system. The first is setting the Car ID into the fob, and the second is registering the fob to the car. Setting the Car ID requires either a new, never previously programmed, fob OR a seed reset which allows use of a previously programmed fob.

The dealer apparently succeeded in setting the Car ID into the "defective" fob, but then failed to register it to the car. With a good Car ID, the chicken dance worked.

 

AH! That makes sense, Thanks!

 

I lost my full sks proximity remote while traveling. My spare was a used fob and only starts when inserted in slot but does not have remote or proximity.

If i buy a NEW Fob from toyota can i program it to work as remote and proximity as well as in slot using my existing fob?

Thanks!

 

Welcome to PC!
Sorry, in order to use the "Chicken Dance" for full remote and SKS functionality, you need:

1. at least one fully functional SKS key and
2. a new SKS key.

If you are missing either, you need a licensed locksmith with a Toyota compatible computer or the dealer (and $$).

 

@RobH - Sorry I didn't respond earlier. I just got back online.

Yes, that sounds about right. However, the issue is that the dealer said that the fob could not be registered to the car. They did the re-seed but said that Techstream would not recognize the keys when they tried to do the registration part. They tried this with a known used key and a brand new key from a Toyota dealer. However, when they took one of their brand new keys and tried it, they said that Techstream immediately recognized the key and registered it to the car. The only difference, according to them, is that they registered it to the car before programming it to start the car in the slot (which I didn't even know was possible) to see if it would work.

So, assuming that they weren't lying to me, why would they not be able to register those two keys to the car? Why would Techstream not recognize them? From what I have read, even if I had a master key, the chicken dance shouldn't have worked on a used key. Since it did, it validates that the key was in fact a brand new, never used key without a defect, doesn't it?

 

@usnavystgc

Just wanted to throw my thanks into the mix. The "new to us" 2005 I purchased for the family only came with one key. The previous owner had lost one of his two keys, had a new one programmed at the dealer and then promptly lost another one. He was very lucky that he had already purchased that one. I ordered a 89904-47011 SKS fob from McGeorge Toyota for $137.59 to my door. This one came without a hard key blank, but I have several from times where we ordered new FOB housings. I read through most of this thread, printed out your procedure and my son and I did a couple dry runs with him as the reader an me as the do-er.

We were done in just a few minutes and the key is working perfectly.

The only additional info I have that may help someone is:

Step 9b: I went ahead and just did it twice. It caused no problems.
Step 9c: I accidently pressed the lock button 2 times within a second or two of each other. it caused no apparent problem, as the lock/unlock cycle occurred just a few moments later.


I had planned to attempt programing the new key using techstream, but after connecting and looking through the screens, I became a bit concerned about doing something stupid and losing all functionality. Why risk it when the chicken dance was available? But, I was able to at least verify how many keys had been registered. This is a photo of that screen. I wasn't able to get a photo of the new screen, as my son had to use the car for an errand (assigned by mom , so that overrides anything I have going on).

Next chance I get, I'll connect back up to see how the new key registered and maybe figure out which key was the one the PO lost so I can unregister it....

Everything I've read says there can be only 5 keys registered, yet there are assignments for up to 8? Anyone have info on this?

 

Wow. Great info. My dealer wanted $175

 

Thank you to OP for the tutorial. It was so helpful. I do have a question.

The lock, unlock buttons on my old fob don't work. Is there anyway that I can program the new fob to lock/unlock doors remotely and have SMART KEY functionality with the old fob broken?

Thanks again!

 

Thanks so much! Just programmed a new chrome fob (start and proximity lock/unlock), and while it took a couple of tries for both routines it eventually worked.

Thanks again!!!

 

Is there a way around this step?
I only have one key and it suffered water damage. The smart functionality works, but any time I press lock or unlock button, it would go nuts and keep unlocking or locking the car multiple times. The red indicator also keeps blinking for a while.

I was thinking to try to do the reprogramming, but there is a big chance old key will be locking/unlocking the car multiple times after the step 9a.
Would I have to replace the whole system?​

 

No.

It sounds like one or more of your buttons are sticking in the "on" position. Maybe disassemble the fob and see if you can clean the switches. Who knows, you may be able to save yourself the cost of buying a new fob.

 

Hi

I was able to execute procedure A without problem. However, I am not able to get step 9C to work in procedure B. I have replaced the batteries in both the fobs. Does this mean that the new fob is not actually new? I purchased it on eBay from someone who said it was new.

Thanks

 

I was able to program a new key!
It worked just fine, even though it was sending additional open/close door signals after i pressed the buttons simultaneously.
Looks like it didn't affect anything.
I made my video for the process, using the steps from this forum, maybe it will be useful.

 

I lost my key the other day for my 2007 Prius, and my spare I dropped in water 8 years ago, so it starts the car (in or out of the slot), but the lock/unlock keys don't work. Does this mean even if I buy a new key I have to take to the dealer to reprogram from scratch, since the lock/unlock step is part of the chicken dance?

 

Short answer is YES. They need to reprogram new keys, any locksmith with the right credentials can do it too.