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No one seems to be installing 16 AMP Charger

Discussion in 'Prime Plug-in Charging' started by cleverchimp, Sep 8, 2018.

  1. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    I extend a GFI client port outlet with 12/3 wire (to avoid using extension cord) and just realized that I might as well go for L2 charger since the state give $250-$500 credit but it seems that no one really doing 16AMP chargers...

    I have to go with that since I have the 12 AWG wires already. This is for OUTDOOR plug, I do not have a garage.

    - 2 pole 20 AMP GFI breaker (outdoor outlet)
    - Clipper Creek LCS-20, 16 Amp Level 2 EVSE, 240V, with 25 ft cable with NEMA 14-30 plug
    - NEMA 14-30 receptacle (they dont make 14-20)

    1) Do you guys have any suggestion for a better charger then Clipper Creek?
    2) Do I need a disconnect box? Do I need GFI breaker?
    3) Is there any better price for Clipper Creek other buying directly from them? $395 for 16AMP L2 seems rather expensive.
    4) My understanding is this charger should be the maximum that Prime can handle, which going to cut charging time to 2.5 hrs roughly right?

    Thanks
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    1) there are other L2 evse threads, you can search pip threads as well, same evse.

    2) no and no

    3) $395. is decent these days unless you go chinese on alibaba, but you won't get clipper creek.

    4) correct. the charger is actually inside the car, and is 12 amps max. L2 (240v) will cut time in half.

    5) all the best!(y)
     
  3. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    Thanks!
     
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  4. Colorado_Hiker

    Colorado_Hiker Junior Member

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    I also just recently bought the LCS-20. Got from amazon direct with free shipping. My only comment would be to not use a 14-30 receptacle since you only have 12/3 wire. By convention the 14-30 receptacle tells others that the circuit is rated for 30 amps. Since you have 12/3 wire and a 20amp breaker your circuit is limited to 20 amps. At some point in the future some one else could connect a 30amp device to the circuit and it could pull more amperage than the wire is rated for. I’d put in a 20 amp rated receptacle and use an adapter to the 14-30 plug.
     
  5. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    Thanks for the tip, it does cross my mind. I’m planning to put 20AMP max label on the plug, because I did a halfway run on 12/3...not from the panel, but to the closest electrical outlet. Tapping into the client on the gfci outlet, my plan is to run 4 new 10 AWG wire from my sub panel and wire nut it with 12/3. In the future if I need to upgrade to 24 amp charger I just replace the 12/3 with 10/3. Its a bit more expensive in Amazon due to shipping then getting it straight from the manufacture.

    At the moment this is how it looks...the brick dont come with the hook as mentioned on the manual, I have to improvise with cable ties.
     

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    #5 cleverchimp, Sep 8, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2018
  6. Old Bear

    Old Bear Senior Member

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    If you put in a 30-amp receptacle and you are protecting the circuit with a 20-amp breaker, you still can plug anything you want into the receptacle but the breaker will trip if it draws over 20 amps. The receptacle itself would not be a problem.

    Here's the interesting part: even if you plugged in a 40-amp L2 EVSE, it will not draw more current than the charging circuit in your car is calling for. So, you could plug your Prime into a 40-amp EVSE wired to a 20 amp circuit with no problem. But when your friend plugs his Tesla into the same EVSE, the 20-amp circuit breaker would trip and shut of the power to the EVSE.

    You are right about the code and safety limitations imposed by the 12/3 wiring, but it is being protected from being overloaded by the 20-amp circuit breaker.

    While some of the cockamamie schemes which have been discussed here to convert a 240-volt outlet to accept the 120-volt plug on the Prime's factory-provided portable EVSE are downright dangerous (because someone could unwittingly plug in a 120-volt appliance), using a receptacle with a higher amperage rating is only "false advertising." It's the circuit breaker which provides the over-current protection.
     
  7. triggerhappy007

    triggerhappy007 Active Member

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    If you something cheaper than Clipper Creek, get this:
    16 Amp Electric Vehicle Charging Station| AmazingE
    It has service and tech support from Clipper Creek. If you buy from Amazon, it says sold by Clipper Creek. :)
     
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  8. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    Thanks for the tip, looks like this is more suitable for indoor/garage use. Mine will be on the outdoor and a lot of sun exposure, my city use Clipper Creek...that what sold me to the brand.
     
  9. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    Correct. The breaker doesn't know the size of wire its connected to or anything else besides that its only job to protect circuits based on its amperage rating.
     
  10. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    Hm...with all the things I need to do...I might as well do straight 10/3 run from the panel and get LCS-30 instead. The cost difference is not that much but from 16 AMP to 24 AMP it does make a difference if I do get other electric car in the future.
     
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  11. ziggy29

    ziggy29 Member

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    It doesn't make a lot of economic sense, IMO, to specifically run a new 20 amp service for the purpose of charging an EV. Might as well go with at least 40A, if not 50. A charger/EV that takes less current can step down, but one that wants more can't exceed what that circuit is rated for. And with a 50A circuit, you could draw 40A reliably at some point in the future. It won't cost that much more and you wouldn't have to pay a second time for a retrofit.
     
  12. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    That's true, I should have research it more before doing the work. The problem is my conduit is just 1/2 inch EMT..I cant go more than 10AWG with the current situation also another consideration is I'm using 1 inch conduit from my sub panel, which actually intended for another "Future" sub panel if I decided to build garage later on.

    Its probably more feasible to leave current setup and run new #4 and leave some slack (for future sub panel if needed) down at my crawl space and use that to install new plug for 50 AMP EVSE...more money but I have a backup 120V plug if anything happen on 240V and a future proof 50 AMP chargers.
     
  13. Old Bear

    Old Bear Senior Member

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    You're absolutely correct. If you're running wire, the cost is mostly in the labor and not it the per-foot cost of the material. For the small incremental cost, you're much better off to plan for future needs.
     
  14. JimBinDallas

    JimBinDallas New Member

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    Perhaps just my point of view, but having been on this earth 7+ decades I have learned that buying a product with a maximum value it can handle, and then running it always at that ragged edge of what the specs say it can do is a recipe for trouble and early failure.

    I have a Prime that only needs 16 amp, but I built a 40 amp capacity EVSE and installed it with a 50 amp breaker set, 6-50P plug, #6 gauge wiring with not only an eye for the future, but knowing the more current you put through a breaker results in more heat & accelerates its eventual failure.

    Big wire stays cool and provides minimal resistance and voltage drop. I want my EVSE with 50 amp relays that won't degrade quickly with only 16 amps going through the contacts. Trust me I do understand saving money, but buying a 16 amp max EVSE that you plan to run at 16 amps every time you turn it on, using minimum gauge wire and breakers that are just above what you plan to draw is asking for issues. The 80% "rule" for breakers is based on safety, not whether the part will last as long as you hoped.

    So my unsolicited advice is to go for parts where you spend most of their time in the sweet spot in the middle of their spec range, not at the fringe and I predict you will most likely have a trouble free installation for years. Just sayin'.
     
  15. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    I agreed with you, this is a conversion of the existing 90 degrees LB for 120v outlet, the size is 1/2 inch which doesnt give me much option. The most I can install is HCS-30 with 10 AWG wire...and if I need to do it all over again I would use stranded rather then solid wire, just a little update I finally done with the install today...never work with EMT before and I wasted about 40 foot of pipe before finally understand how to bend it lol. Its a lot of work since my run is about 70-80 feet away.
     

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  16. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    looks great, congrats!(y)
     
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  17. a_gray_prius

    a_gray_prius Rare Non-Old-Blowhard Priuschat Member

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    Our neighbors have an AeroVironment EVSE mounted on a pole outside unsheltered (Amazon seems to sell it as a Webasto EVSE). So far it's held up to 5 years of problem-free charging of their PHEV. Our Tesla was able to pull 30A out of it when we plugged it in as something of a capacity test. I don't know that it's any cheaper than the Clipper Creek though.

    We use a 40A Leviton EVSE (on a 100A-capable circuit in case we decided to go the HPWC route), but it's mounted indoors.
     
  18. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    I did a lot of research on the EVSE brand and clippercreek stands out as they are one of the first in the market and have a good reability track record. I cant imagine to have a dedicated 100 amp for EVSE, its large enough to power a normal house. The most I will go probably 60 amp, just because I will probably wont buy a car like Tesla and most likely I will run it from my 100 amp sub panel instead.
     
  19. a_gray_prius

    a_gray_prius Rare Non-Old-Blowhard Priuschat Member

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    We had 100 amp service before we installed the EVSE. I'd argue that if you have the financial ability (and especially if there are tax credits like in our case), upgrading the panel to 200A and installing a high amperage EVSE (or at least the wiring to handle such since wiring is a small cost compared to install labor) is a reasonable investment to future-proof your house. We actually wanted 400A because we were, at the time, thinking what-if we purchased another Tesla and needed two 100A HPWCs (this is not the case anymore).
     
  20. cleverchimp

    cleverchimp Junior Member

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    Agreed about future proofing the house, 400A service is almost unheard for residential area here in LA. I did upgrade my main panel from 100A to 200A few year ago. I can technically run 100A from my main 200A panel but I would rather install a sub panel instead and run the EVSE from that sub. I can see labor cost becoming an issue if you hire an electrician. I spend roughly $350 in material and $130 in permit. If I hire an electrician it will cost me extra $1000-$1500 for the labor alone. Yeah, aplied for the rebate and it should offset about half of my cost. I will definitely install bigger second EVSE in the future, maybe 60A one once I get an EV and use this exiting HCS30 exclusively for the prime. If both of them being used, my 100A sub still can handle it.
     
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