Well, I've officially owned the car a week now, and I like it more and more! It's a 2008 with 129k miles that cost me $4200 after taxes and tag. It's in great shape inside and out, so I look forward to keeping it a long time. My first run through the tank, it wasn't completely empty, but I did the math and got 47mpg avg! The computer only showed 43 avg. I guess that also means the battery is fine. As part of the "new car purchase fees" ( hehe) I am also upgrading the sound system. This will be interesting as it seems I have a Frankenstein. The car has a rebuilt title, and apparently the Toyota dealer that did the work put in a standard entertainment package but it came with higher I think? The car has steering wheel controls for Bluetooth and navigation, but the car has neither. It doesn't have the JBL package, no amp under the passenger seat or even a harness that I can find, but the rear doors have the tweeter grills at the top(but I don't hear any sound from them). lol So, hoping I don't hit a brick road, this is what I have put together and is on the way. Sony MEX-XB120BT - $152 open box + with all the harnesses and steering wheel control add on for another $50. 2x JBL GX600C components - New from Amazon for $59 a set. (might as well use those tweeter holes!) Rockville SS8P under seat subwoofer - new for 90$ with wiring kit from Amazon (very interested to hear this) So everything including some extra wiring and a distribution block to split the wires to run to the radio and sub comes to around $450. I have a couple questions. That sony is a high powered HU and puts out 45 watts rms a channel at 4ohm. Those speakers are 2.3ohm. A previous generation sony like it (only 40 watts at 4ohm) was tested by sonix electronics to do 72 watts rms at 2 ohm with 14.4v on a dyno. Now I know I'll get fewer volts, but I wasn't sure if the factory wiring would be enough or if I needed to run new wires? My guess was this could possibly pull 60-65 watts at 2.3 ohm? Factory wiring might add to that impedance and knock it back to 4ohm. I went back and forth over the subwoofer. I didn't want to waste any storage space, and it seems you ahve to spend more to push enough power to a sub to sound good if you tried to hide it in the cargo bay under the rear hatch floor. There are a ton of options for compact subs. Rockville makes several options that all get really good ratings and are cheap (Saving audio house brand apparently). I looked at the sound ordnance 8" powered sub, and the kicker hideaway. I eventually went with the Rockville for the price, and because it seems to hit way above it's class(and looks nice!). I think the kicker is the best performing based on my reading, but even used was a lot more money. I plan to put it under the driver seat. I guess we'll see! If you all are interested I can report back with how that sub sounds, as well as the rest. I've not had the opportunity to do a build like this in a decade. I tried with my last car, but it was an Avalon and was a pain to deal with that radio (ac went through it, so you had to keep it wired up in the turnk!) so I just kept it all stock(non jbl).
You won't need any new wiring for the head unit, you can use the stock wiring for power and speakers. For the sub you should do ok running some lines forward from a new fuse at the 12v battery. Better to go forward from the source rather than rearwards from the dash distribution.
Maybe I should hook it up the HV battery? if 14.4 volts gives 45 watts....205 volts would be like 600 watts a channel!!
Looking forward to seeing how you do the mounting kit part, as well as how you integrate/exclude MFD, steering wheel controls, etc.
Since this car has a rebuilt title, you may want to drive it a few months before you throw money at it. Just in case it's a lemon
Here is what I just did on my ‘06 that we purchased recently. I kept the steering wheel controls fully operational. Note - I have the non-navigation, low res MFD, non JBL amp Prius (base) version. Parts list: Pioneer AVH-1440NEX (Apple CarPlay, HD radio, DVD). $260 from Fry's Electronics Amazon Metra 95-8240B stereo dash kit $21 Metra 79-1761 wiring harness $2.88 Metra Axxess ASWC-1 universal steering wheel interface $44.99 $308 total The stereo dash kit above included the resistor that I wired between pin 10 (white) and pin 9 (pink) to allow the climate controls to work. I reused the metal brackets off of the factory stereo rather than the plastic ones that came with the kit. The steering wheel controls connects to pin 8 (white) and pin 7 (black). Pin 6 (red) connects to a chassis ground. Yep, it freaked me out to connect a red wire to a chassis ground, but it is correct for my setup. Powered up the Axxess device, connected to my Pioneer deck cycled it through an auto-detect mode. I installed the hands free microphone just to the left of the windshield's rear view mirror, routing the wire inside the A pillar cover and behind the dash panel. USB and an AV cable I routed to the glove box. The setup works very well. I may put in an amp later and new speakers, but it’s sufficient for now. 2006 Prius Base
Its been rebuit since 55k miles according to the toyota service reccord. A dealer rebuilt under a geico insurance claim. I figured it was good if its still going strong. I also had an inspection done by toyota. The only thing it needed was a belt.
Yeah when it was my turn for this project I hoped they had thought of all that stuff too. Let's just say they eventually made good on it and I'm still a satisfied customer.
I really wanted a CarPlay/android receiver. However, it was going to cost way more money than I wanted, and i wanted the whole package. if i wait ill likely never justify rhe money. It's still in the "cost of purchase" phase. lol. I decided that audio quality is the priority since most of where I'm going I already know where to go. Lol I also already had a back up camera which was a priority. I'll just get a windshield mount or something similar for the cell phone to be in. I even considered picking up a really cheap tablet, 7 or 8 inches, and just using my phone hotspot since it's a unlimited.
They wound up having to ship me extra stuff twice. Their support squad was absolutely awesome. They knew what I needed and they knew what was wrong- their fitment database listed several wrong extras and it had been wrong long enough that their buyer had stopped buying and stocking the right stuff. They wound up buying the right thing from one of their competitors and having it dropshipped to me. Phenomenal customer support, honestly... just not clean out of the gate.
Jc has an excellent point. Most posters soon have there hands full with a rebuilt title G2. Do not calculate mileage by the tank full. That infers you will run the tank very low chasing milesge when frankly I would not worry about mileage at this point. Many many posters have run out of fuel doing this and got stranded on the side of the road. This is the worst car ever to run out of fuel. You can kill the an old hybrid battery doing this. THE mileage calculator on the mfd works perfectly as a long average. Go on Toyota.com/owners forum and join. Post your vin found on your insurance card and it will show every time it’s sppeared at a dealer for service and what’s been done to it. It will show the cars service history.
I felt the same, but considering the condition and the fact that it has been going fine since it was rebuilt at 55k miles in 2011 (now at 129k) I felt pretty confident in it. Also, I only paid $3800. I am not interested in pushing the car like that. A friend who owns a prius told me the dots for gas don't really measure up because this has a "bladder" style tank. It isn't consistant. My plan was to just fill it up when it has one or two dots left regardless, just like a normal car. Doing the math is the only accurate way. The computer said I avg'd ~43, but the miles divided by the gallons I put back in (after a fill up of course) was at 47. That's a big difference, but both are good. I actually did that for every Prius I was considering. That's how I found out the details of this rebuild. It was done by Toyota. To that point, that's also how I found out a claimed "new hv battery by Toyota was recently installed" was not true. There was no record, and the Toyota dealer they claimed it was done at had no record.
This could be done by someone other than the dealer. You can check for the "New" battery marking on the battery case. A "new" battery would have a bunch of warning stickers on top of the case. The original batteries don't have these warnings. This could be seen with minimal disassembly to get to the top of the case.
The "receipt in hand" said it was the same dealership the owners had it serviced at. It was an elderly couple, so I doubt he did the repair himself. Either way, it just seemed to risky. the car was in near perfect shape, but it had 203k miles and they wanted $4700. It was being sold by a towing company on their behalf. I just let it pass.
No both aren't good. As an average your mileage meter on the mfd is much more accurate and tells me the hybrid battery is getting tired. No big mystery its 10 years old. You will see this evidenced by it tanking to one purple bar quickly when you go through a drive through. First thing that starts to suffer is mileage than power. The bulk of the torque the car has comes from the hybrid battery.