How to Program a New Key Fob for Full SKS Functionality

Found my old key FOB; pulled out the RFID chip and transplanted it to the new shell.

Nailed Procedure A & B the first time. Note: I had to perform Step 9b on Procedure B twice on a 2008.

Currently using the new FOB for daily driving, the old FOB with a new aftermarket shell has been mothballed with the battery removed and a set of spare batteries in the event the the primary FOB is lost/damaged/destroyed.

Also I believe it would be an extremely good idea to suggest that if someone needs to replace their FOB because it's in poor condition, to simply buy an aftermarket shell and swap out the shell, with a note to transplant the RFID chip as well, and retain the original FOB shell just in case someone glosses over that part. After reading through the thread a few times it appears that some people are buying whole brand new FOBs just to replace one that isn't in good cosmetic condition. Cost me $7.34 for an aftermarket shell from China that did a reasonably good job working, versus $120-$180 for a whole new FOB.

Also, I found it a lot easier to press the switch on the door frame that tells the car that the door is open/closed instead of actually opening the door, and then actually closing the door once you reach a step that requires it to be closed for the rest of the procedure.

 

Just programmed my spare key fob. I purchased it via Amazon from Daytona Toyota ~$160.

Took two presses of the new fob to cycle the locks on my 2008 Prius.

Chickens can indeed dance. Although, I must admit it was difficult not to laugh during the sequencing.

 

Procedures A and B worked on a new SKS key on a non-touring 2009 model two.

Many thanks to the original poster.

1F7

 

These instructions worked great. Also helped to watch the you tube videos online:

(guy gets it on the first pass but does a few things differently at the end - follow the instructions on this thread and not the last few steps in this video for smart key programming - e.g. steps 9.a. - 9.c.)

(this guy does not get it on the first pass but eventually does)

Also highly recommend purchasing a silicone key fob cover to protect your key fob. Even though I saved some money compared to going with the dealer, I still spent $160 on amazon for an OEM key.

As a comparison:

• It takes me 25 min to drive to my dealership (50 min round trip)
• Dealership said they were selling new keys for $220 and programming was $40 - $270 total with taxes (they also said there was no way I could program the key myself)

I spent 30 min total watching the above videos and reading the instructions on this thread and then buying the key on Amazon. Spent $160 for the key fob and spent 10min programming it myself. Saved at least 10min in total time (likely much more waiting for the dealer to reprogram the keys) and $110!

Thanks for posting this helpful thread.

 

Is it possible to program a new key fob without having one that already works? My wife lost our only one and I fear what the dealership will charge for a new one.

 

Some locksmiths can do this (call around and get pricing). If you have AAA, they have a lost key benefit that will help, call them.

 

It is possible by using the (pirated) version of Toyota Techstream if you have that running on an XP laptop with the minivci cable. (Would cost ~$100?)
One advtage would be that you could use a non-viginized key since you will be wiping all keys and programming fresh. You have to go through the whole 96 character code generation and seed code hassle.
Kind of a daunting process that most people are not willing to go through.
But is it technically possible? The answer is yes.

 

This has worked great for new keys--thanks!--but I have a question: what does one achieve following Procedure C that isn't already achieved following Procedure A?

 

Presumably you are asking because you have a black logo non-SKS key. It programs the remote locking, procedure A, only programs the ability to start the car. If you don't have a black non-SKS key, then you do not do procedure C, but rather procedure B.

 

I've read a lot and searched a lot, so if this is already answered, please forgive me - I didn't find this situation.

I bought a used 2006 Prius with SKS. I only received one fob in very bad shape . It does start the car when put in the slot, however, it does not unlock the doors - either by pushing the button or proximity. I checked to verify that it is an SKS fob (case says it is Model B31EG). I also switched the battery for a known good one.

So, I am looking at buying a new SKS fob. However, will I be able to program it myself? I am fairly confident I can do the first part of the chicken dance (getting it to work in the slot), however, since the buttons don't work on the first remote, how can I get the second part (getting the new remote to work - either with or without SKS-specific functionality)?

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

The SKS "chicken dance" (procedure "B" above) can only be done if you have at least one working valid SKS key.

 

A common problem is a stuck/broken key, you might want to try a new case (don't forget to move the RFID chip!) first, to see if the bad case is the problem.

 

@ITBland Thanks for your response. I have already taken the fob apart to see if it was a stuck key. It isn't. I wouldn't be surprised if it is a bad board since it looks like someone drove over this thing and then glued it back together.

So, my only option will be to go to the dealer to have them program a new key? What about with Techstream? The key I have will start the car, just not work for the doors. Is that enough to use Techstream to set up a new key?

Thanks again!

 

See this post above: How to Program a New Key Fob for Full SKS Functionality
Some locksmiths have Techstream and can get seed numbers, if you have AAA, call them, they have a lost key benefit (that'll get you a reduced price and a locksmith), dealer and licensed locksmiths can get seed numbers.

 

Actually I got two silver logo fobs with a vehicle I recently purchased. For reasons unknown, only one fob worked though both physical keys worked. I have succeeded in programming the second key so that it starts the car when the fob is inserted but haven't been able to successfully complete procedure B. My guess is that the fob needs to have its memory cleared.

So as I understand it the functionality achieved is as follows:

- Procedure A: ability to start car by inserting fob in slot.

- Procedure B: a. ability to unlock / unlock car using fob buttons and b. ability to open doors by simply pulling handles and to lock car by pressing black buttons on doors.

- Procedure C: ability to unlock / unlock car using fob buttons.

Thanks for the reply.

 

Procedure A can be done on either type of car with ANY key (either Black or Silver logo) up to a total of 5 in memory*.
Procedure B can only be done on an SKS car with a NEW silver logo key, up to a total of 5 in memory.*.
Procedure C can only be done on a non-SKS car with any black logo key (either used or new), up to a total of 5 in memory.*
*The immobilizer can only store a total of 5 keys, you can clear all slots and add keys back in with Techstream (without a seed) IF you have a working key. When you get to step 4 in procedure A, if the light keeps flashing 2 flashes, pause, 3 flashes over and over, then you have no more slots left.
Also note: the radios are different on the two types of keys, black logo keys remote functions will never work on an SKS car, and the silver logo keys remote functions (non-SKS remote functions) will never work on a non-SKS car.

So, If you have an SKS car, buy a new silver logo key and do A then B.
If you have a non-SKS car, you can buy a new or used black logo key and do A then C.

 

@ITBland Ok, some more info. I decided to try the chicken dance, knowing it wouldn't work but it would at least let me diagnose if the remote was working. So, after doing step 8 (removing fob from slot), the car cycled the locks 4 times. I tried pushing both the lock and unlock buttons and the locks cycled 4 times again (so it did at least receive a signal from the remote). Pushing any of the buttons caused the locks to cycle 4 times. Is this an error code of some form?

Also, the black button on the door handles to lock it do not do anything. Is this normal if the SKS fob is not present? Or should they still lock the vehicle?

Anyway, my thinking currently is that the fob I received is not a master fob for this car. So, it was probably programmed for the immobilizer but not the SKS functionality. I'll be checking with different locksmiths to see if any of them can program a new fob. I already called the local dealer and they wanted $225 for the fob and another $110 to program it.

 

When you say "cycled the locks 4 times" do you mean lock-unlock-lock-unlock? That is 2 cycles and means you have a key that was paired with another car (which is what you suspect--your "original" key is not paired with your car.)

 

Yep, you are correct, 2 cycles. It sure sounded like more. Ok, I'll get a new one and go from there. Thanks for your help!

 

OK, I wrote this, then deleted it, but I was correct--it is possible to reset your current used keys to work with your car, but the article I am linking implies that it takes more work (actually more delay) to redo a used key than to add new keys when all are lost (in respect to SKS, you have lost all keys.) Link to Art's Automotive.

What I originally wrote here is that you don't necessarily need a new key (transmitter) that the "lost key procedure" could add the used keys, just as well as a new key (and save the cost of the new key.) The link to Art's implies that it is a little more involved. Might be worth a call to a local locksmith.