Tie Rod End Length Difference

I replaced the front strut assemblies. Now I've got problems with the wheel turning angle, steering wheel position and tie rod end length difference.

Adjusting Camber:
The driver's side needed 2 of the most extreme camber adjustment bolts to set it to -0.7*
The pass side used the factory bolts and set it to -0.9*
The manual specifies -0.43* plus or minus 0.75* as ideal with <0.75* L-R error. So, -0.81* ideally.

Adjusting Toe:
The driver's side front is toe-in 1.0mm.
The pass side front is toe-in 0.5mm.
The manual specifies 1mm plus or minus 2mm as ideal toe-in.

Tie-Rod End Length Difference:
The driver's side has 2-3mm of thread visible.
The pass side has 14mm of thread visible.
The manual specifies < 1.5mm difference between the two sides.

Obviously, the wheel turning angle is way off now.

Knowing Camber and Toe are within spec:
Would it be appropriate to equalize the tie-rod end length difference, center the wheels, then adjust the steering wheel linkage to straighten the wheel and perfrom a zero point calibration?

Nothing I can find in the repair manual, nor TSBs specify adjusting the steering linkage to resolve this.
The steering wheel linkage and power steering motor have matching factory matchmarks, so I know it hasn't been adjusted before.

 

Those are the measurements from the tie-rod ends as I found them. A previous alignment tech did this. Why? No clue.


I had a problem with accurate camber measurements:
I tried using a bubble level and a fancy digital angle guage. But my garage floor undulates such that I get wildly different measurements within a very small area.
The most accurate method I've found is a fishing weight (plumb bob), on fishing line taped to the fender hanging in line with the middle of the wheel, and measuring the distance to the rim lip.

Using this method I verified the rear wheel camber was well within spec.

The Driver's Front maximum negative camber is -0.66* using the 2 most extreme eccentric bolts (90915-15006).
Apparently this Unity strut assembly has the camber bolt holes misplaced.

The Pass Front maximum negative camber is -0.55* using the original 2 factory bolts.
I plan on adjusting this to match with more eccentric bolts (in the mail).



Determining "center" for the steering rack:
So, where is "center?" Or, how do you know when the steering rack is centered?
Finding nothing in the service manual or suggestions online, I took measurements from a good spare steering rack, centered at factory matchmarks.
Inner Boot Clip to Thread: Driver's 9-15/16" -and- Passenger's 9-11/16"

My on-car measurmments are an exact match, when the steering motor input shaft is rotated 2 splines to the left of the factory matchmarks. ( Torque Sensor 1: 2.51V --- Torque Sensor 2: 2.45V )
Why? Wear and tear? Accident Trauma? I've no idea, but no suspension components are bent, damaged or worn.

So, knowing the rack to be centered, I adjusted the steering linkage to match; Which, fortunately, can only be adjusted 2 splines at a time.



Tie rod end length difference:
I equalized the tie rod ends and, using Toe Plates, adjusted to 2mm Toe-IN.
The Tie-Rod End Lengths were D.F.=12mm and P.F.=12mm
The steering wheel was ~5 degrees off center in it's new position..

I adjusted the full 1.5mm Tie Rod End Difference. (1/2 turn each side)
The Final Tie-Rod End Lengths are D.F.=11.5mm and P.F.=13mm
The steering wheel is centered perfectly.

TEST DRIVE:
Everything is perfect!
Pulled it back in the shop and double checked the numbers. Still good.