The engine had had a few low oil warnings - but was checked after that every 2 days (approx 400-500 miles). There had been several misfire issues over the previous weeks that probably did not help. Yep it's the wife's car! She has had the car towed home 3 times this year due to red triangle of death. The motor had been pushed hard all it's 278,000 mile life on the highways. It had an excellent life So the plan is to make it good again as a project. Cost is not an issue - fun and scun knuckles here we come lol!!
Only takes one good triangle of death to damage the motor. Triangle means zero oil pressure detected. Your pumping air instead of oil. Toughest little motor ever but can’t tolerate low oil. As the resident fleet manager at my house I pay special attention to the wife’s car. Only because I dread that phone call. And maintaining oil level is really easy. Just do it every saturday morning on all cars before you start them. If I see oil loss I increase that check period. It has paid off my 130000 mile g2 bought new on 07 does not use oil. It had a small oil use but I moved up to 40 weight oil and that stopped that in its tracks.
We had to check it every 2 days it was getting so bad LOL. Oil change every 3,000 miles. The motor lasted a good 20,000 miles after the low oil warning... so it did well/ I do suspect a rod bearing now that there is nothing broken in the rocker gear.
Pretty minty top end. Its seen alot of oil changes with good oil. Well worth fixin' the bottom end. See how bad the cylinders are the cams look pretty good. Good job. Fear the red triangle man lol.....
Progress today. Got the pulley off using rope into Cyl No 1. Saved purchasing any special tools to remove.
You fill the cylinder with rope, so piston can't come up, engine can't turn. I think I've heard of that.
Hi SnT08Prius, Thank you very much for documenting your engine disassembly for us! Did you happen to notice if there was much looseness of the timing chain? Did you happen to notice if there was still some travel left in the chain tensioner? Are the timing chain guides worn more than 1 mm? Is there any obvious excessive wear of the camshaft bearings, cam lobes, or valve tappets? Your engine condition is particularly interesting to me, because my Prius, with 265,000 miles, will soon have as many miles as yours.
I will take some photos of all the parts when i get it completely torn down. So fat everything still looks great inside the motor. The chaine seems to be in good condition with no noticeable wear on the sprockets. I have 2 head bolts (allen Key) that have stripped and just turn. So I will need to come up with some method of jamming that up to get the undone. They both cracked at first but then the tool I was using was not correct and rounded off inside. Almost there.... Expecting a rod bearing to be gone.
The clatter was way too bad to do that. It was either broken valve or bearing. SO it was pull it apart and see if it could be rebuilt with new pistons and rings. Now it will probably need new crankshaft and bearings too
Hit a real snag today. 2 head bolts have rounded off and only got the first crack undone. I used the wrong tool to start with in that it was a no 8 allen key type socket - but one that can do slight angles. I did have the proper unit that got all the others out. So it looks like it's take the bottom end apart and see if I can get the pistons out that way. But unless I can get the head bolts out I cant see the engine going back together.
Bit more progress today - but failed to show what was making all the noise. (I have 2 stripped head bolts not coming out) So the bottom half of the motor came off. You cant pull pistons out the bottom of the motor LOL but I could not see any broken rings or holds. Crankshaft was in very shiny condition - only journal No 3 had a score in the bearing and that was just 1 line around half the bearing. All the rod bearings looked like clean white metal still. So now it looks like the last thing to do is get the head off some how even if it means destroying the engine block. I figure the head is worth more the the block?? So should I grind into the block just below the head to cut the bolt?? I don't see any other way to remove the stripped head bolts. Once all the parts are cleaned I will do a series of photos of the wear patterns. But so far all looks great for 270+k motor.
Talk to a machine shop? There's gotta be a way. Eric the Car Guy has one video on broken bolt removal, drilling it out, slowly escelating drill diameters.
I should try that first Thanks for the idea!! I'll put the bottom part of the motor back on minus the crank and give it a go.
Nice work. I have had good luck with scary bolts using an impact gun. You can rent a half inch for $10 a day. Just bump it in reverse don’t go full power. Just sit there gently bumping it in reverse. The constant reverse bumping impact Will eventually loosen it with no drama. Takes patience but works. If there really stuck on I freeze the bolt Using freeze spray And that will shrink it. You roll up a piece of paper in a tube put it around the Bolt head and freeze it. Wait a while and freeze it again and back to bumping. Freeze spray is used by electronic bench techs to troubleshoot thermal issues. Friend at work last week stripped out 55 mm torx head bolt on a ford 4.0 six cylinder. What a pos that motor is. He ground a line in the stripped bolt head not sure why your not going to get that out with a flat blade screwdriver. Only way out is easy out or weld something to it. Head bolts are a bitch there on there with 100 lbs torque. You get one shot at them. Good luck.
I would try the drill method myself. You already enlarged the opening, all you really need to do is take off enough of the bolt head to break it off. Use one of the other head bolts as a guide. Once you have the bolt head off you can slide the head up and off, just as if the car had studs instead of bolts.
I'd try @edthefox5 impact method first, unless it's hopelessly rounded. What about bolt extractors too, the left-hand screw bits? Leave the drill-out method for last