Brake Accumulator failure C1391

Is this the correct one to get?

Do I also need an acuator?

 

Unless you have too much money, I would recommend you locate a actuator with the same part number as yours from a wrecked car and swap it out per the information provided in this thread. I can see where Toyota says replace everything, since they get a better deal on parts than us. If you need an accumulator or want to replace both work out a deal with the seller to get both parts at the same time. Negotiate, they are junk parts to them, I sold a wrecked Honda civic with a rebuilt engine to the junk yard a few months ago and got a 250 dollar check for it. The kid had to pay the wrecker company more than that, I paid more to have the head rebuilt than that. Its all profit to the salvage yard. call around local, I got a transmission (prius 2010, call it an ecvt if you want to get technical) for 120 bucks with a 12 month warranty. The actuator swap is really easy, and if you have to do it twice you will be even faster. Do the work yourself and you can take credit personally for the win. Anyone willing to get dirty can do this fix.

 

I have some good news. I sent a letter to Toyota corporate, and with all the complaints they’ve been receiving, they decided to update the Toyota Safety Bulliten to include the additional Prius’ that weren’t previously covered in the C1391 or brake issue. So my $4500 repair bill ended up being $0! I suggest everyone to take their Prius to Toyota if they hadn’t been covered before, you will now. Cheers!

 

sweet congrats! warranty is great when they honor it.

 

How many miles on your 2010?

 

130,000. Buy they extended the recall with a no mileage requirement.

 

So what did Toyota update? Additional years 2011+?

 

Have there even been any 2011's with this issue? I'm dropping mine off at the dealer tomorrow for the free fix.

 

Do you know if this is only for faulty accumulators, or does it include actuators as well?

 

Please see the picture attached.

 

My car has been approved for the free fix, parts ordered will arrive tomorrow should have it back Wednesday. Driving a new Camry loaner currently.

 

Awesome!

 

A new user (vrtillman) just sent me this document announcing that 2010 Prius are covered under warranty for this repair:

https://toyotatalk.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/ZJB-BrakeBoosterWarrantyEnhancement-.pdf

Unfortunately, no mention of 2011s.

 

2011 Prius here with 113k miles... I have the hissing/puffing noise when at a stop and foot is on the brake. Started out barely noticeable few months ago, but it's getting a lot worse. Sound like the car is vaping constantly... No Dash lights yet. I'm hoping Toyota adds other model years to this recall. For now, researching DIY fixes for this as it looks like Toyota is gonna want about a 1/3 or more of the value of the car to fix this.

 

Have you checked with dealership? There is warranty extensions on this I'm pretty sure.

 

Well, the noise got worse and worse, to the point where it started squealing, almost like an air horn sometimes when the brake was pressed. The loud squealing was intermittent but the 'hissing/puffing' was very consistent (when foot was on the brake) and noticeable. Took it to the Toyota Dealer, at first they said everything was fine "Computer does not show any codes, brakes are fine." - Are you friggin' kidding me? It sounds like you are being gassed in the car! They had the master tech look at it and even though there are no codes, they determined it is indeed the Brake Accumulator Assembly. About $2.5k to fix - Car has 114k miles.

I opted to get it fixed. I am hoping the 2011 model year gets added later on to the recall list and I can file a claim. Not Happy. I will try to contact Toyota and also report this to NHSTA - not expecting anything but worth a shot.

Here is a link to the recall for the 2010 Model - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2013/RCMN-13V235-9056.pdf

Identical issue on my 2011 (except I don't have the lights on the dash yet - I don't want to wait until the brakes fail, because that's what I'm reading will eventually happen if this is not fixed.)

 

Contact Toyota corporate, they may help you out.

 

Thank you for posting that PDF! I had the abnormal leak in accumulator error code come up in my car last Saturday and when I called the Toyota service department the lady told me she didn’t see any recalls that I was covered for. She said that there was only an extended warranty up to 150,000 miles and my car has 173,000. Then I did some googling and found that PDF about the extended recall which seemed to say that I should be covered, so I went down there personally and showed her the letter, and she finally conceded that my car is covered. Huge relief because I really didn’t want to have to tackle this repair or dish out a thousand bucks. The crazy thing though is that since I cleared the codes so that I could drive my car to the dealer she said they could order the part but can’t do the repair until they see the warning lights. So I have to wait until it throws the code again which is absolutely ridiculous because it’s really dangerous. She essentially told me that I have to drive my car until the brakes go out, then bring it back. Well at least it’s covered, but if I get in an accident I’m going to own the Toyota dealership. Just saying.

 

Wait - the recall is for 2010 model year, but you have a 2011. Didn't they tell you right away that the recall is for 2010 only? Or are you saying there is a new recall that includes 2011 also?

 

Mine is a 2010 if you’re talking to me, and apparently it’s not a recall, “it’s an extended warranty.”

Question though as I have an entirely new issue related to this.

I had my master cylinder/brake booster replaced yesterday bybtoyota free of charge. They made me drive the car with no ABs system to the shop because they would not do the repair unless it was showing the warning lights which I had cleared the day before, so I waited for t to happen again, drive it home, and then the next day tool it in. So now if driven it home twice and once to the shop with no ABS system. Today however after the repair thinking everything must be fine now, I was driving and the engine would not shut off at stop lights. I shut the car off when I got where I was going, then when I drive it again it was shutting off, and seemed to be working fine, but after a while suddenly the yellow triangle came on and it said check PCS system, and check hybrid system. I was able to drive it home where I checked for codes And the ones I found with my tech stream are c1657 c1659 p0a80 c1259 c1310 c1a40 b2090. So a shovel bunch of stuff. I’m wondering if driving without the ABS system may have caused my 12v battery to go bad. I had it replaced last year, so otherwise it should be fine, but I did notice I was getting 40mpg lately (before the service) which I chalked up to cold weather, but maybe driving it in that condition finished off whatever started my battery going bad. Any suggestions?