Battery rebuild in orlando

When doing the load test, the difference between starting voltage and ending (while still under load) voltage is where you need to be looking. If these deltas are close, and given your OCV given above, I'd be inclined to be looking elsewhere. Likely candidates are plugs and connectors (check particularly the plug that goes into the HV Battery ECU.) Check also all the sense wires. Corrosion can get into those and either cause high resistance or break altogether, just inside the wire after it leaves the connector*. As far as the modules themselves go, they each may benefit from just a 3-cycle rejuvenation charge using one or more (as many as you can afford) hobby chargers, used by remote control cars, planes, helicopter enthusiasts. The thread Prodigy linked to in post #17, you see one example of using hobby charges. TMR-JWAP uses 7 4-channel charges to charge each module individually, but in parallel to cut down the amount of time to cycle a pack through the (typically) 3 cycles.

@ericbecky, @strawbrad, @2k1Toaster and @TMR-JWAP are just some of the people who have hands on experience that contribute here on PC. They will, I'm sure, have other information to contribute, if they have the time and can stop by.

I'm not sure if the linked thread in post #17 actually covers the charge/discharge process (I need to go back and read it, lol), but the link in my signature (Gen II Prius individual battery module replacement) was at one time considered the premier thread of howto fix a sick battery. It has grown to quite a size and the advice has changed since commercial grid charges became available (didn't exist when the thread started), but the first, say, 5 pages would be good info for hobby charging. The only process in that thread that has gone out of favor is the equalising (not to be confused with balancing) process where, at the end of the charging cycles, all modules are connected together +ve to +ve and all the -ve to -ve. The thought was that this will equalise voltages after about 24 hours of being connected together. This has been found to be of little value and so is considered now a waste of time and resource. All good modules should be between 0.2 V of each other if they are good (in relation to each other) if they are not, they should be changed out – don't quote me on that threshold, though. The performance of modules, when compared to each other, in terms of how quickly (or slowly) they charge and discharge plus the capacity from full to 6 V are both much more important criteria. How well the modules play together is what is important, and you need 28 modules that are playing together well. This aspect is what makes selecting a replacement module that comes from another pack difficult. Capacity is not so much looking for "high" capacity modules, but modules that match in capacity to your current modules.

Anyway that is rather a lot to digest all at once, but I hope you find it useful.

Please continue to ask any questions, until you feel you are comfortable with your knowledge.


*People who do this professionally routinely just replace all the sense wires with new ones.

 

REWARD if you can help solve my problem please.

Well I guess I’ll just jump right in.
My 2006 Prius Hv battery pack was throwing codes. I tore it down and tested all modules and found one bad 6v module. I order 1 gen2 module from a reputable source, and installed it. I didn’t have any issues with removal of hv battery or repair thanks to this wonderful forum of amazing people. I installed the hv pack and only made it a few miles before it gave me the red triangle and other engine codes. So I took it apart and sanded all the copper plates on the bus bar and torqued them down to spec. It lasted 22 miles before just the red triangle came on with no other engine lights/codes. I couldn’t get any scanner to find any codes. All my modules still tested good, the car drove fine, and the system appeared to still work and charge. After more researching I decided to see if balancing the pack would help. I had all modules right at 7.8s and tried to run them parallel to “balance”. Instead of taking the time to completely dessemble the pack and flip the modules the same direction, I stupidly built my own wire harness to connect all negatives to negatives, and positives to positives. With both bus bars completely disconnected from all modules. I hooked all negatives together, and began carefully hooking up positives. As I was finishing the first side I noticed that my harness was heating up. I began rapidly disconnecting the homemade harness and bumped into multiple surfaces creating very small sparks but it didn’t seem too alarming. I tested all my modules to see if the harness problem may have harmed them. They all tested great and almost exactly identical. I decided to just hook the bus bar back on and give it a go. I tried to start the car but my dash instantly lit up with all symbols including triangle and wouldn’t even try to start. I disconnected the 12v battery (which is brand new) to try and reset the codes. No help. I checked the service disconnect making sure it was installed correctly and tested the 125amp fuse inside the handle and its all good. The weird thing is, I can’t seem to get 220v on either side of the main line. When I try to start the car I pick up 40v then drops to 25v on the battery side of the main line. All modules test 7.8 and I’ve visual inspected every aspect of the battery pack wire harness and don’t see any problems. The display still showed 3/4 charge on the pack, so I know there is signal from the battery. I’m completely lost at this point. I’m not sure what to test next or what questions to ask. I’d like to order a nice scanner to help if anyone has a suggestion for a Prius friendly one. Thanks to anyone that can help explain, and thanks for all the help I’ve received from PriusChat as an outsider up to this point!

 

You may need better diagnostic software like Techstream.

Feel free to call me during business hours. I can talk through some ideas with you.

Quick question, did you use an inch-pound torque bwtench when tightening your mondule and High Voltage connections?

 

I know Texas is a BIG state.

Get hold of Matt at Texas Hybrid Batteries. He is in the greater DFW area.

 

what's the reward?

 

ozzy 96 =+++THERE ARE 2 HYBRID REPAIR SHOPS IN ORLANDO
HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF ''GOOGLE''?

Dynasty Automotive
4.7 (90) · Auto Repair Shop
Orlando, FL · (407) 896-8700

"The mechanic was very knowledgeable about evaluating the hybrid ..."

Advanced Automotive Works
4.6 (32) · Auto Repair Shop
Orlando, FL · (407) 647-6351
Open ⋅ Closes 6PM

 

I was actually thinking about contacting them for a new replacement pack since replacing modules is usually just a temporary fix on the older models. But now I’m scared I may have damaged something other than just the modules so I’d be afraid to just buy the pack and not the whole hv battery. If I can get the car to start again, I will definitely be considering Texas Hybrid Batteries.

I’ll mail a $50 visa gift card to anyone who can tell me how to fix it.

I did use a torque wrench, but was unsure on what the actually spec is on tightness. I had removed and installed the bus bar multiple times without an issue until now. The thing that really has me stumped is that I’m not getting any 220v from the battery. I can only get 40v or so when I have the ignition on.

I’ll be ordering a new scanner tonight, if you have any suggestions on the best place to order one?

 

Sorry for jumping on your thread. I was having a hard time using this website on my phone, so I just took the opportunity when I noticed people talking in my area as of recently. I hope you get everything figured out. Good luck!