Burning Oil Check List

clean the egr circuit and intake manifold. install an oil catch can. in the meantime, keep a closer eye on your oil level and don't let it get below minimum.
plenty of threads on both here, all the best!

 

In addition to the above, You can also club up on the viscosity .

I’m at 5w-30 now and have been for 61 k miles (currently at 181 k miles).

How did you find your Prius low in oil? Were you checking on the dipstick regularly ?

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Like the above poster stated, bump up on the oil weight. I don't have an oil issue, but decided to be proactive and I am using Mobil 1 0W-40 weight. No change in MPG, and a much better oil. Also change your oil at 5k miles.

 

If I was to make a move I think it'd be to 5W30 (per @Raytheeagle): it's a more distinct shift, and it's the 2nd gen spec.

 

5w-30.

Works well. Another item to consider is reducing your speed to 0-5 mph above the posted speed limit.

That will also reduce the oil consumption .

 

Senior moment, fixed it in time.

 

I wish from time to time I could claim the same.

 

Just say early-onset senior moment. I'm pretty sure that's been my situation for decades.

 

I claim CRS: Can’t Remember Stuff (the S changes depending on mixed company).

At least it prompts people for what’s the acronym mean.

 

Loaded statement: Quit driving soo fast, just tone it down to 5mph above the speed limit instead.

 

How much oil is considered as a "oil burning issue"?
I'm putting 0w-20 and the quantity from max to min marks will be burned for about 10k miles with 20-30% highway driving at 70-90 mph (our speed limit). I'm saying "will be" because I change it at ~6.5k miles and it's little under the middle between the max-min marks.

 

I hate to say this but 'welcome to the club'.

There are quite a few of us that have oil consumption issues. We have tried many things to mitigate or slow the loss. Unfortunately, most of us have learned to live with it and the ultimate solution often turns out to be checking the oil more often.

There are quite a few threads out there as to what people have done, etc...As for myself, here is some of what I did on our 2010 to get you started. I know @Raytheeagle has a post or three around too.

Excessive Oil Consumption on 2010 Prius | Page 2 | PriusChat

There are lots of theories as to why this might happen. EGR 'plugging' seems to be a common theory these days. You can search around for that or check the link in my signature as a starting point for how to get started. Here is a link directly to the EGR stuff.

Hi all, new Prius v owner | Page 3 | PriusChat

Oh..and also check out @NutzAboutBolts 's videos on youtube. LOTS of great info and was the inspiration for a lot of the projects many of us have attempted.

 

I’ve done my fair share of “experimenting” and posting as @farmecologist points out.

I just check the dip stick every weekend and travel 0-5 mph above the posted speed limit. Oil consumption increases with increased rate of travel, so keep that in mind.

I still do an EPR flush and extended life MOA treatment each oil change and I am at a consumption rate of a quart every 5k miles or less.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

I’m going to spend a day this weekend cleaning as much of this stuff as I can. I’m not super familiar with the systems but can I leverage any other major cleaning when doing disassembly to get to the EGR components?

2014 PIP 175k miles with oil burn issue getting rapidly worse. I do get the cold start knocks during morning starts in the moist Central Valley during winter. Not an issue now though but the heat seems to be bringing other issues this year. Occasional misfires in cruise control, some strange noises at low speed / idle. I suspect some of this actually may be an electric motor issue but am not sure yet as it is difficult to reproduce. Also I think I get occasional knocks as well when accelerating.

Changed the spark plugs around 150k and they looked pretty good.

All 3 (or is it 2?) coolants have been right around the MIN level for some time now but color looks good.

Driving is about 80% flat highway at 78-83 mph, 10% mountains, and 10% surface streets. Mpg is pretty consistent at 39mpg. 700 miles or so per week.

Planning to move closer to work by October and then start phasing in bicycle commuting. Just starting to wonder if the engine can make it til then. Hoping some of this cleaning can buy me a little more time.

Any other suggestions?

 

So I got the intake manifold out and am in the process of getting ready to deep clean it tomorrow. As for the EGR system, I just did the EGR pipe, as the rest looks like more work than I can manage right now.

A few questions.

1) I didn't realize I needed to order a gasket, so the Prius will be sitting in the garage a few days with the manifold off. Should I cover or plug the intake valves so debris or bugs don't get in? Or no big deal?
2) I noticed the 2 interior intake valves leading to the block are not perfect ovals. They look to each have little not-so-perfect flat notches on the interior part of the oval, and the exterior side looks round. The other 2 valves on the outside are nice ovals shapes. Is this a sign of damage? Or is it like a clamp point for the manufacturing process?
3) The little L-shaped rubber valve between the PCV valve and manifold had some pretty serious deposits that I knocked out of it. Is there a good way to clean this thing without distorting or eroding it? Or should I just buy a new one when I order a new PCV valve? Or just blow some air through it and call it a day?

By the way, the PCV valve (visually) looks like it has some serious torque on it. My only deep 22mm socket is only a fit on my breaker bar and I didn't want to risk messing up the threads using the breaker. Will look to buy a deep 22mm for my torque wrench at Harbor Freight tomorrow. Is it accurate that once I get it off, if I just give it a little shake and I hear something that it should be working OK? It looks like it is a tough item to get quickly online. Do the parts departments at the Toyota dealerships typically have same-day availability on these?

 

You might be ok just reusing the original gasket. I know it's good practice to replace, but it's a judgement call. I've had the intake off twice, just past 70K kms on odometer, and didn't bother replacing the gasket. Yeah but with 175K miles, good practice to replace it.

Just clean the hose, it's very tough. I purchased a new hose, but just so I can return the stock should I trade in or whatever. I've cut that hose and spliced in an Oil Catch Can. Speaking of which, that's something you should seriously consider, catch that crud you're seeing. Try a soak with strong Oxi-Clean solution.

If the hose is really knackered, maybe replace. Dealership parts department should be able to find it from coloquial description, but fwiw, here's the part number:

12261-37060 HOSE, VENT

Phone and check regarding availability; I suspect it'll be in stock or a day or two at most. Torque value is 15 foot pounds, but I guess they get pretty stuck on. I took ours off just to have a look, used a 22 mm deep socket with a long handled 1/2" drive ratchet wrench (roughly 18" long, lots of leverage), and it was pretty uneventful. Yours has a lot of miles though.

I'll attach a Repair Manual excerpt on the PCV valve inspection. It keeps talking about some wrench extension, which is sorta presumptive. With the intake manifold off it's readily accessible.

I'll also attach RM excerpts for intake manifold and EGR system. The latter is very likely extremely knackered with your miles. Read the threads here regarding Oil Catch Can and EGR cleaning, and watch @NutzAboutBolts videos (pinned at top of 3rd gen maintenance section).

A couple of suggestions if/when you get into EGR cleaning:

1. Drain a couple of liters of coolant from the radiator drain spigot, into a clean container. This will for sure drop the coolant level below the whole EGR system, and there'll be no spillage when you remove the EGR valve/cooler.

Just hold the EGR valve/cooler orientation as you lift it out though: there will be a little trapped coolant at the lower back corner. You can tip it out over your drain container, save it.

When you're done and everything reinstalled, pour the drained coolant back into the reservoir (it will be low) and squeeze the coolant main hoses a few times as you go, it might help. Also, you might leave one of the small coolant hoses atop the EGR disconnected as you pour, to help the system vent. If/when coolant start coming out stop pouring and reconnect that hose.

Doing this I ended up with coolant level in the reservoir slightly high, and back to normal after a day or two driving.

2. The best cleaner I found for the cooler was repeated soaks with strong/hot Oxi-Clean solution. As concentrated as you can get it, hot tap water, cork one end and fill it with the solution, let sit for an hour. It'll bubble and float off all the gunk. Then repeat, maybe 5 or 6 times. A thin copper wire run through might help, but use caution.

The cooler is stainless steel, impervious to the Oxi. On the other hand, the valve is mostly aluminum, and with that I would just use something like brake cleaner, and brushes; the Oxi might react with the aluminum.

 

@Ceeb , where in the Central Valley are you located?

I have to go to Paso Robles next Saturday, so I’ll be traversing down the i-5 corridor to Kettleman City. My reason down is to attend a wedding, but it doesn’t start til 3, so my morning is free.

Since you say it could sit down for a period of time, I’d wait and get all of this egr circuit work done and then you don’t have to worry about it for another 100 k miles.

To answer your questions:

1. Plug the holes with paper towels
2. No damage or corrosion, that’s what they look like
3. Cleaning the intake manifold and PCV valve can be accomplished with bottle brushes (there is a useful cheap pack at harbor freight).
4. As for cleaning the egr cooler, do you have a spare? If not, the fastest way I have found to clean it is with a pressure washer which makes the internals shine like brand new .
5. If you have the intake manifold off, I’d just get a 22 mm wrench around the end of the PCV valve and go counter clockwise and it’ll come off. No deep well needed.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Nice new avatar.

From the coffee table book?

 

Yeah, New York. What would that bridge be, the Brooklyn bridge?