Need help detecting coolant leak

Only place we see it leak is because the water pump is shot and its leaking out the water pump weep hole. But you say new seller put on new pump. probably bullsh*t get a flashlight and look at it see if its new. While in there look for leaking coolant down front of block.

See a few posts lately about really clogged coolant system because it was never maintained and fluid so old it was sludge.

if you don't see any leaks anywhere its going out the exhaust pipe because you have a blown head gasket. many many reports of blown head gasket from overheat. Aluminum head does not like an overheat. So stop driving the car till you figure it out because you will lunch the motor.

I suspect you never even checked the coolant level after you bought the car.

Go on youtube and search Prius Inspection

It will instruct you on how to put the car in inspection mode where the motor will endlessly run at idle. Take the rad cap off and put it in inspection mode. with car running keep filling it up as it goes down carefully filling it up so you dont drop any on the ground and as it runs watch for leaks.
If the coolant overflows and it all spits back out you have a severely clogged system.

First thing I would have bought is a OBD code reader that you can monitor engine temp like ScanGauge as you can use it on any car to pull codes and monitor engine temp. That tool is a necessity unless you like guessing and that will be every $$$$$.

 

It may have a new pump and the seller never bled all the air our. It may be air locked. Do my inspection thing that will help get the air out.

 

1. When you filled the radiator, how much fluid did you put in? A gallon or more? Did you use the proper pink fluid?
2. When you refilled it again, how much fluid did you put in at that time?
3. How far do you normally drive in your car? Under 10 miles at a time?

If the system was empty, it would require more than 1 gallon of fluid. If you put in less than a gallon, then it probably wasn't empty.

 

May just be super air locked. Or the engine oil is now a milkshake.

Put it in inspection mode. If you can jack up the front end so the cylinder head is lower then the rad so the air bubbles can get out and turn on the car's heat at max heat temp. leave rad cap open and Let the engine run and top it off. Watch engine temp on torque.

Sometimes squeezing the rad hoses help with the bubbles during this procedure. All I know is the engine coolant loop is a stone bitch not to invoke air lock by a full blown coolant change. Which is why I always recommend to posters don't do it.Just dump the rad only a few times over a few months. That works great.

By the way with the heat on see if you can hear gurgling and whooshing noises in the dash. That's the trapped air bubbles.

 

Try changing the radiator cap, should be around $10 at any auto shop

 

After every drive, the next morning, check the radiator level. I remember I had to fill mine 3 or 4 times before the level stayed full. This is due to the air in the system.

Also check your heater functions, if there's heat, then things might be normal.

The radiator cap is probably fine if you've tested it. Keep checking the levels of the radiator, I think you'll find it needing less and less to top off

 

Which part of California are you in?

I would put in another engine if it's head gasket, but losing that much coolant, will make your oil like a milk shake

 

the 117 is the coolant sensor issue the 1116 is coolant flow issues and the CHRS bottle is not happy.

You have a severely clogged coolant loop. The car was not taken care of very well. The previous owner
Replaced the pump because the sludge in the engine ruined it is my guess or lol the fan belt is missing and the water pump is not turning. Previous owner saw how bad the engine was and dumped it.

How bad did the coolant look when you dumped the rad? How bad do the fins look in the rad cap hole? I would take the fan belt off and see how hard it is to turn the water pump by hand.

Recently there was a few posts about a guy who had a severely clogged coolant loop and was able to flush it out using a product. Use the search forums button up top and find it.

 

From the last symptom, I'd be changing the thermostat. It seems to be sticking. I've had new thermostats to this. If it's sticking shut, that would account for the boil-over and over temp condition after you started it back up.