Gen 4 Transmission Fluid Change Tools/Supplies

Have you used that pump before? Dead simple is a funnel with a hose extension. If you can get a helper to pour while you monitor, and a have a drain pan under, just pour in 3 quarts fast, then the last quart do a 100 cc at a time.

IF it's per gen 3, and I'd suspect it is, the drain and fill bolts are socket head cap screw requiring 10 mm male hex thing (never know what to call that). The dealership would have the washers, know the parts numbers. FWIW, 3rd gen part no. is: 90430-18008. And (3rd gen) torque value is 29 ft/lb. Note, an extra long handled wrench is good for breaking the bolts loose, they're a little more cantankerous than the engine oil pan drain bolt.

Close to level should be close enough. Just consider: the level is right when it starts coming back out, with the car level. I try to get reasonably close.

 

The hex size is most likely 10 mm.

When I did the wife’s RX450h the bolts were 10mm so I would suspect the same for the gen4.

The harbor freight pump works great. I’ve used it a dozen times or so for the exact purpose you will be.

Washer replacements would be nice, but not necessary .

 

A “10 mm hexagon socket wrench,” according to the Repair Manual, available by subscription to techinfo.toyota.com.

The filler plug and the drain plug have gaskets, which are non-reusable parts, according to the manual. Toyota’s catalog says the part number is 90430-A0003, formerly 90430-18008.

The expected fluid level is “between 0 to 8 mm (0 to 0.315 in.) from the bottom lip of the filler plug opening.” The torque specification for both plugs is 50 N·m {510 kgf·cm, 37 ft·lbf}.

The manual says, “Set the vehicle on a lift so that the vehicle is kept level when it is lifted up (make sure that the tilt angle from the front to rear of the vehicle is within +/- 1°).”

 

Considering the wheelbase is roughly 106", and the wheel well "radius" might be roughly 15", the rocker panel is probably about 76". multipy that by the tan of 1 degree: you'd want to to keep the height difference between front and rear ends of the underpanel bottom edge less than roughly 1.25". It shouldn't be hard to do better than that though.

You guys and your pumps, reminds me of the cone of silence:

 

Are you saying we are taking the Sargent Schultz approach to this?

Better the cone of silence than the cone of shame .

 

Only issue with hose and funnel: method you may end up under there, screaming "stop pouring, stop pouring, sto.....".

 

I recently did the drain and refill on mine and made it simple. I saved an empty oil jug to fill with the old trans fluid so I knew exactly(ish) how much to add so I didn't lose but an ounce or two after it was full. I also used a funnel with 4 feet of tubing to route down from the left side of the engine, easy and simple.

 

It's good to measure drained fluids, especially engine oil, to check on consumption. But, I wouldn't rely on drain measurement to determine how much to add: just pour in the new with the car level, and the level is correct when it won't take any more.

What was your drained measurement btw. If you've put in around 3.5 quarts you're fine.

 

I drained out 3 quarts and 10-12 ounces. Here's what I had left of the 4th quart. On the next drain/flush, we only need to buy 3 quarts.