Brakes-When have you done yours?

I’ve done our 2010’s with 180 k miles all along and have about 7mm left of pads left on the original sets.

I try to maximize regen braking when possible and ensure that the slide pins are lubed and allow the pads to move freely.

I do them all at once as I have everything out and ready .

Good luck with your brake work.

 

Assuming you're in the States, Toyota maintenance schedule calls for a complete inspection every 30K miles or 3 years, whichever comes first.

For DIY without Techstream, it's good to disconnect the 12 volt negative cable before pulling off calipers, and leave it off till caliper is reinstalled and the brake pedal has been pumped a few times.

Also pay close attention to the rear caliper piston orientation (shown in attachment). It's imperative it be as shown, and well seated thus. A good check is to road test after assembly, apply and release the parking brake a few times, then raise the rear again and check that the wheels are dragging. A slight resistance is ok, but they should freely spin a revolution or two.

 

If you turn w/o the brake pads engaged on rotors then, and hear whistle or squeak, most likely the caliper pin(s) are on the verge of seizing. I'd get it check soon because if you ever have to brake instantly going down hill or on hwy at fast speeds, your car may pull to the direction of the left and veer to the left onto another lane.

 

I did all four pads only at about 140k. Figure I do all of them anyway since i already had the battery disconnected, as Ray mentioned above.

One of the front pad was down to about 3mm. Make sure you relube the pin, mine was movable but very sticky. Hopefully now the pads will wear more evenly.

 

Neither of these are kosher, but seem to work well. The Sil-Glyde in particular, seems to be ok with rubber O-rings:

1. Faying surfaces between pad backs, shims and caliper points of contact: Permatex Anti-Seize.

2. Rubber pieces, and the caliper slide pins: Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant.

 

I agreed with Sil-glyde for the slide pins. I used CRC silaramic brake grease for the backing, Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance.

 

My Gen 2 were replaced before 100,000 miles, I was surprised.

 

I have also had a noise when I make low speed right turns and it often continues lately for quite a while after. I only have 48,000 miles on my 2010 which I bought new. I pulled the wheel and it appeared the splash guard, which is rusting apart, might be rubbing on the rotor so I bent it back and the noise stopped for a day or so. Then it came back and I took a closer look. I could not really tell much but there were some areas that seemed very close so I bent more of the splash guard away from the rotor. The noise is still there so I guess I will take another look. I have not seen new splash guards for sale, and have not yet checked how, or if it is even possible to replace them. Anyone else with experience on this?

 

If you bend it too far, it will hit the rim.
Rotate the wheel (after jacking it up) and try to locate where it's coming from.
You may have two problems. A rock, pebble, or stick stuck in the caliper or between that and the shield.