It's time! 100k proactive maintenance

Ixnay ixnay. The rubber grease is 08887-01206, the top tube in this picture. It is red (the grease, not the tube) and clearish. Smells a little like wet sweaters. As they say, it's a lithium soap glycol formula, not a silicone.

The other greases shown are for other locations in the brake system, where metal touches metal (no rubber), as between the shims.

-Chap

 

Thanks for pointing out the Permatex web page with the metal-to-metal contact only warning. I had to look at the container of grease I have in the shop. It's the same 8 oz container as pictured that I've had literally for close to 20 years (practically a lifetime supply for a non-pro). No where on the container does it say indicate metal-to-metal only. It does indicate to use on slide pins though. Hmm, this may require a letter to Permatex.

 

A company having multiple, "overlapping" and poorly described products can be frustrating for the potential customer. They want to make a purchase, the best for their application, and they don't want costly surprises.

I think I'm ok with my tube of Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant; it mentions both "caliper slides" and "ease rebuilding of rubber parts, o-rings, grommets, boots". But hey, how about: "suitable for caliper pin lubrication" and "will not swell rubber".

The 3M Silicon paste (3M 08946) also sounds good.

 

Agree. Syl-Glide (my choice in recent years) or the 3M, aka any straight-up dielectric grease for slide pins. I used CRC dielectric for years before buying a tube of Syl-Glide.

 

Yeah I first put Sil-Glyde on the rear pins (the ones with the rubber rings IIRC) about 4 years back now, and they seemed fine about a year back when I redid them. I'm revisiting the brakes tri-yearly.

 

Tri-yearly, that ought to just about do it!
I hear you though, turd gen rears will seize the pad ears in the brackets, wear them on a bevel and cook the rotors in no time in the rust belt. Even WITH the pistons oriented properly. They almost border a bit on design fail. I do slide pin and contact point service every spring and they get pretty crusty in a year...

 

Well, the repair manual has different style arrows notated to show which grease goes where, their rubber grease is called "RUBBER GREASE" and if you buy a Toyota rubber kit to redo a caliper, it comes with a little packet of the right grease right there in the kit, same way if you buy the shims they come with the shim grease. It's not like they're making it sooo difficult....

-Chap

 

Toyota isn't the company that's not being clear... it's Permatex. Their directions specifically say the product is safe for use on slide pins (among other things). While the seal at the tip of the slide pin is unique to Toyota, I've never seen a brake caliper slide pin that didn't have an acordian/baffle rubber seal. So how can they state that the grease is safe for use on slide pins?

 

I'm doing the brakes on a couple of Hondas too, and don't feel like chasing down esoteric lubes for both companies, would just like something that works. Also, if at all possible, would like to use up what I've got on hand, avoid disposal issues.

 

Do you mind sharing where you got the red oil pump shown in the picture?

 

Looks like the harbor freight one I got for free.

They run coupons and sometimes they give them away.

Used it about a dozen times and it works well.

 

Thanks!

 

This has been a very informative thread. I was just getting ready to ask what I need to have done at 90k and it looks like I can just get the oil/filter changed again and then have all this done during the next oil/filter change at 100k. I can no longer do this work myself, so I imagine I'm looking at a fairly hefty bill to have Toyota do it. Other than AAA, I don't know anyone else here in the Phoenix area. Unfortunately, looking at the before/after photos, I doubt anyone is going get things as clean as you DIY'rs do.

Spark Plugs replace
EGR Pipe & Cooler service
Intake manifold & throttle body service
PCV valve replace
Transaxle service (was done at 30k)
Inverter & Radiator Coolant drain/refill
Brake fluid drain/refill

 

Forgot to mention it looks like you have access to a nice lift.

Looking for one out here for my garage setup.

If I had that, I know where all the local members would want to do their maintenance at.

But it makes life a lot easier .

 

I’d price it around and see what you come up with.

While it may be expensive, if you were going to get this done by someone other than yourself, I would do the following as piece of mind:

• Buy a separate egr cooler and valve and clean them myself
• Buy an intake manifold and clean it myself
• But all the gaskets required for the install
• Ask for the previous in service parts back so you can do that same routine again

If you do this, it ensures you get it thoroughly cleaned and are not at the mercy of what the service technician thinks is “clean enough”.

Good luck with your maintenance .

 

Cost of plugs is what (in the States), $50~60, plus likely an hour's labour, another $80~90, say $150

Oh geez, not sure about this one. A dealership, they will not want to clean the valve and cooler, would prefer to just slam in fresh/new parts, and for that you're looking at at least $400. And at least an hour's labour, say $500~600.

They will likely insist on new gaskets, and take maybe two hours labour, say $150~250. Like the EGR, I'm not sure they'll be willing to clean this thoroughly, would maybe insist on just slamming in new parts, and then the bill goes up...

The part's about $10, and if they do it in conjuction with intake manifold, should be no more labour.

The fluid's about $40, and the complexity about on part with an oil change, I would not spend over $100, $80 would be nice.

The engine coolant requires 2 gallon bottles, around $40~50, and an hour's labour, say $125~150. Note: the inverter coolant you could postpone to 150K miles or 15 years, that's the Toyota spec in the schedule, if you read the fine print.

Two pints of Toyota DOT3 brake fluid is around $20, and should not be over one hour labour, say $125.

FWIW, I DIY'd the EGR and intake manifold for zero, no gasket replacement, no parts replacement, and it all was fine. Ditto for the brake fluid: about $20 worth of fluid.

 

Just because nobody told me, and my 2006 Prius with 101,000 miles lost the hybrid battery. I would add a complete reconditioning of the battery with Hybrid Automotive system either at home or their shop. I think there's one in Burnaby, BC. They do multiple charge and discharge cycles to eliminate memory and balance modules. Also clean cooling fan and recondition wiring harness. Should greatly increase life of Hybrid Battery.