This morning I started our 2010 Prius (150K miles) and the Check Hybrid System indicator came on along with many other warning indicators (ABS, Power Steering, Tire Pressure, Master). The car can be driven but power steering, power brakes, all turn signals are not working properly. I've checked a few fuses - all good. Headlights, brake lights, and other accessories are working. Could this be a battery issue? How would I check that? Thanks in advance for assistance!
When that happen to mine, I took it to a dealer and they told me it was my hybrid battery with error code P0A80. They didn’t charge me anything since they also had to do some inverter recall on the car. They reset the code and I drove away without replacing the battery. I ordered OBD2 scanner from amazon next day, cleared the error lights whenever it came on and have been driving on bad hv battery. Almost 8 months and 13k miles later, it’s still driving well. The check hybrid lights came on several times since then but I just clear them with OBD2 and so far ok. I don’t recommend you do what I do but it’s worked for me. **I didn’t have any problem with power steering, brakes, etc when the check hybrid system light came on. But my cruise control didn’t work and ICE stayed running.
check your battery cooling intake grille, and if you carry pets, the fan. also, the 12v battery. after that, you'll need tech stream.
It could be, or a hundred or so other things. The next step is to read the trouble codes, which will begin to narrow that down. As Keepdriving has already suggested, it's possible to obtain a scan tool and use it to keep clearing the trouble codes your car is trying to give you. We won't tell Keepdriving, but it's also possible, once you have the right scan tool, to use it to read your codes, and then make progress on fixing your car. -Chap
Yeah, I could do that but at what point is it worth it to spend $4000 for a new battery or $2000 for refurbished with limited warranty or just drive it till the car is totally dead. But we’ll see how many more miles I get out of this car before I junk it.
Spend the $50~100, or possibly free, to get a dealership to hook it up to Techstream, give you the codes and a diagnosis.
So I just got the car back after taking it to the dealer after reading about ECU recall. Dealer called and said probable rodent issue. Suggested I call insurance company. Did that and they totaled the car and had it towed away without consulting me and before I decided whether to accept their offer and give up the car or accept a reduced amount (salvage) and keep it (or fix it myself if possible). Long story, but I just got it back and I'm trying to decide what to do They said they replaced the ECU and re-flash the motor generator ECU and Power Management ECU. Quote from their report: "Scanned on-board ECU's, 15 different trouble codes stored including CAN communication codes, no data received between systems. Found at least blown panel fuse inside passenger compartment fuse block." The fuse blown (inside fuse block) and is the ECU 10amp fuse. I replaced it and it blew the new one. The car is still driveable as before (Check Hybrid System light on, power steering not working, ABS light on, no turn signals). I've pulled quite a few panels off looking for obvious wire chewing but not finding any. Yes, there is rodent sign. Based on what's not working would anyone have a clue where in the wiring harness the problem might be? Any other thoughts greatly appreciated. Also, battery reading 11.95 - is that high enough or suspect?
It's definitely mice, not rats as if that matters Well, the car has 154K miles but is worth more to me. I have 2 or 3 options: $6700 they've offered if they just take it away; and $4150 if they take the title and mark it as "salvage" and I get to keep it (and potentially get it repaired or sell it for parts). In CT you have to re-inspect/register salvage cars to get them back on the road. The third option would be to withdraw my claim and fix it myself but I'd have to find the source first and decide/fix it before going that route. After checking a lot of wiring (except under the dashboard which seems like a hard job to remove) I still haven't found any visible wiring damage. I still wonder if a week 12V battery might be the cause (reads 11.95 on multimeter). Can I connect with jumper cables to another vehicle to see if that's the problem or would I have to replace it with a specific battery? I'm still trying to find the damaged wiring so if anyone has suggestions based on my Saturday post about what's being displayed and what's not working I'm all ears.
My 2012 Prius has the EXACT SYMPTOMS, like you mentioned above. (Check Hybrid System light On, No power steering, No power brakes, No regenerative braking working, ABS light On, Brake light On, Tire pressure On, Master Triangle warning O And No Turn Signals) And the 2 DTC Codes from the scantool are: 1. U0129 - Lost Comunication with Bake System Control Module 2.U0131 - Lost Comunication with Power Steering Control Module, Both codes are for CAN BUS communication issues. I'm glad to find out that The ECU Replacement, and the Firmware Updates didn't help.(Saved my hard earned cash) So Thanks a Ton for your invaluable contribution. THE FIX!!! THE FIX IS A SIMPLE BLOWN 10AMP FUSE!!! THAT IS LOCATED IN THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT UNDERNEATH THE STEERING WHEEL FUSE PANNEL. I ATTACHED A PICTURE OF THE BLOWN FUSE LOCATION ON THE INTERIOR FUSE PANNEL. SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO CHECK ALL THE FUSES LIKE I DID, LOL It's the 2nd 10Amp Fuse starting from the corner of the fuse pannel, That is the closest to the driver seat and passenger seat, simplified if you're facing N then it's the 2nd from Fuse SE Corner of the fuse pannel.
Finding a blown fuse means you have found a question, not an answer. The original poster's issue did also involve a blown 10 amp fuse, as recounted in post #7. And that fuse blew again as soon as replaced, which is never very surprising. That problem isn't solved until he reason the fuse blew is found. Interesting that in your case the fuse did not blow again right away. However, all that means is your question is harder. The problem still isn't solved until you know why the fuse was blown, and that's harder to track down when it isn't consistent.
I just said that the fuse is the reason for all the symptoms mentioned here, and this fixed the issues for me, Plus I put over 500 miles on the Prius since I replaced the fuse with no issues whatsoever. I just think that you didn't read my post(s) in full,(with all the description of what exactly the fuse N28 on the diagram is responsible for) And before completely discrediting my solution, that actually instantly put my Prius back on the road, Without spending any money at all, I'd advise you to keep your theories as simple theories, rather than presenting them as a fact, until you can actually base your theory on more than just a Quote of a Quote. No disrespect meant. If the fuse will blow again in a short time after being replaced, then I'll make sure to let people know, that it's only a partial solution, then and only then. Only then your concerns regarding THE VALIDITY of my solution, THAT I repeat ACTUALLY WORKED FOR ME, will be warranted. And If my solution will prevent anyone from leaving some of their hard earned cash in their family pocket, rather then leaving it at the Stealer, just because they couldn't find any solution at all, then I did what I came here to do. Plus no one else on the forum connected the N28 blown fuse to the U0129 and U0131 DTC codes, which will make peoples diagnostics considerably easier and cheaper too. The bottom line here is, if your fuse blew again shortly, then look further for a long term solution, but mine didn't blow again. And this easily may be the case for other Toyota Hybrid owners with the exact car symptoms, that feel like they have no other option but to be robbed by the dealer. Anyway I don't mean any disrespect in your address, just simply wanted to clarify that for anybody that decided not to use this solution that may actually help them, because of your solution discrediting reply. Namaste!!! And Good Luck to all.
Edit: I'm sorry if I seemed to be 'discrediting' what you found. That wasn't the point. But it is important, especially for the benefit of future readers of the thread, to point out that the job isn't done when a blown fuse is found. There will be a reason it blew. The easy cases are the ones where it blows again instantly; those cases don't fool people into thinking they are already done. If you spend enough time on PriusChat you'll notice that a lot of people will show up in a forum describing a problem and wanting to find out what fuse to replace, as if that is the one element of electrical troubleshooting they have heard of and they think it ends there. Because that misconception is so widely held, the reminder that a blown fuse is a symptom is one that can't be given too often. Nothing personal.
No offence taken, I'm here just like you to be helpful! Update!!! Drove another 500 miles without it repeating or blowing again. So I assume in some cases, it is possible to be just a spike, but definitely it can be more complicated than that.
