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Engine Swap Gen III - Help & Advice

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Algo Trader, Dec 27, 2017.

  1. Algo Trader

    Algo Trader New Member

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    So I throw a rod in my 2011 Prius with 210k miles. I am going to buy another engine with 50k miles and swap them out...

    Mechanic at my work will do the job... but he is afraid to mess with wiring from battery and getting electrocuted. Is there an easy way to take that out of the equation?

    Any advice on removing the engine? tricks? I see lots of people are disconnecting the trans and taking the engine out through the top.

    Does anyone have a step by step on removal ?

    Wish us luck!
     
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  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Welcome to Prius Chat (y).

    One way to avoid high voltage electricity is to remove the Orange safety plug on the HV battery;).

    You can see the plug if you remove the back tray above the spare tire along the passenger side wheel well.

    As for throwing a rod:
    • Was your Prius consuming oil?
    • Anything weird as in noises or performance prior to throwing the rod?
    • Any other issues with your Prius prior to this issue?
    As for those that have pulled out a gen 3 engine, here are some that can chime in: @danlatu , @Aaron Vitolins , @Wrekless .

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
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  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    How much is your new engine going to cost? We have a member here that owns the hybridpit in Orange county. Last I inquired he had 2 engines available for gen3 cars....and they have very reasonable install rates
     
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  4. danlatu

    danlatu Senior Member

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    Have your mechanic pull this orange plug, it isolates all of the HV orange wires that are found in the engine compartment. Very easy, just pay close attention to reinstalling this plug. If it is not done properly, you will get a CEL.

     
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  5. Algo Trader

    Algo Trader New Member

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    Hi - This is all such good info for me. Thank you.

    My symptoms... 2011 Prius with 210k miles with ZERO problems. Then out of nowhere while driving my engine just started knocking horribly. I pulled over and checked my oil... NO OIL. So I went and put 2 quarts of oil in and things improved a little. Knocking was there from 0-25mph then smoothed out on freeway. I then went to the shop. Cylinder 3 misfire code showed up. I replaced all spark plugs and the coil on cylinder 3... no improvement. Still knocking from 0-25. I then went and put a bottle of sea-foam in my full tank and things improved greatly! I noticed my coolant was low so I got a bottle... later that day it was low again! I didnt see any water in my oil. I kept my fingers crossed and it seemed like things were getting better. Then 5-7 days later I was driving fast through curves and down a hill... I was picking up speed down the hill and went into B mode and BOOOOOOMMMM. Engine parts and oil all over the road.

    I found an engine with my 5th digit vin N near me. 70k miles for $1200
     
  6. m.wynn

    m.wynn Senior Member

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    I'd clean the EGR circuit on the donor engine before you install it to simplify the process greatly. Excellent how-to's here from @NutzAboutBolts and @Mendel Leisk to name a few. This will help insure head gasket integrity for the donor engine. Also, salvage the intake manifold, EGR pipe, valve and cooler from the dead engine, clean and keep for future rotation into your donor engine. Big time saver over being committed to cleaning the circuit while the parts are off the car.

    Good luck with the engine swap!
     
  7. Dxta

    Dxta Senior Member

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    There nothing big in replacing that engine. If he's got experiences doing same for gen2s, he'd be fine. But from your posts, he's got none either.
     
  8. Algo Trader

    Algo Trader New Member

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    Hey guys! So I got the engine out... should I be replacing the damper or clutch plate now while everything is out? 210k miles on this one.
     
  9. Algo Trader

    Algo Trader New Member

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    Transaxle damper... is it worth replacing even though I have had no problems.
     
  10. m.wynn

    m.wynn Senior Member

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    Not in my opinion. They don't go bad, break or give any kind of issue pretty much ever.
     
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  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Have you checked the repair manual to see if there are inspection criteria for it? You'd certainly want to see that all the little coil springs are intact, and there might be a standard figure for the thickness of the friction lining (if there's a way you can get to it to measure).

    A history of knocking or misfiring can be stressful on that part; at least one member has found pieces of those springs loose in the bell housing. And having those springs go just makes any misfire/knock/roughness symptoms that much worse, with the transmission gear backlash bouncing against the engine.

    -Chap
     
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  12. Algo Trader

    Algo Trader New Member

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    Hey guys! New engine is in and we are finishing hook ups today’s.

    Any tips on restarting this thing? Right before I too the engine out the hybrid system check came on so I depleted the battery a little. I disconnected obviously the main battery and the 12v.

    Any tricks I should know? Wish me luck.
     
  13. William Redoubt

    William Redoubt Senior Member

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    That damper has probably rotated less than 12 inches in its lifetime. Most likely still like new.
     
  14. William Redoubt

    William Redoubt Senior Member

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    Post your results, please!

    BTW, your car must have been burning oil which was unnoticed. A good plan is to check the oil every fill up and change every 5000. That way you will catch any oil consumption. What was the time span between the last oil change and the rod knock?
     
  15. ToyXW

    ToyXW Active Member

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    I wonder if a blown head gasket mixed oil & coolant creating an acidic concoction that didn't adequately lubricate bearings and ate away at seals & gaskets...
     
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  16. Deadeye914

    Deadeye914 Junior Member

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    Can you update us on how your engine swap went? I to have a gen 3 Prius that ran low on oil I’m guessing from stuck pcv . And started hearing a loud knocking so I did the YouTube thing and cleaned out th pcv the air intake the egr valve the egr cooler and line and changed spark plugs to no avail. After using sea foam it was sounding good for half a mile while I was blowing out the sea foam then it started sounding like I messed up the bearing in a push rod so I pulled it over and had a mechanic friend confirm.(by sound. it was bad) worse even then before so then I went to a junk yard and got a gen 3 engine with 64k and dropped it in today with the help of my brother. No a very hard job might I add. But now there is a shudder when starting then it sounds good then it shuts it self down with a knock and give check hybrid system light. Mechanic friend is going to bring his computer over and reset sensors but I’m worried that will not work. Any advice would be appreciated.
     
  17. m.wynn

    m.wynn Senior Member

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    Check PCV hose is connected at both ends, especially if the hybrid code is P0A0F. Ask me how I know...:rolleyes::cool::D
     
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  18. Deadeye914

    Deadeye914 Junior Member

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    Machanic friend says he thinks there is a problem with clutch pack that came with new engine. Gonna swap it out for old clutch pack and see. Wish me luck
     
  19. Deadeye914

    Deadeye914 Junior Member

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    Also pcv hose was connected at both ends. Thanks
     
  20. Deadeye914

    Deadeye914 Junior Member

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    Ok we had to pull the engine and remove the clutch pack ( not sure of actual name) and we put back on the old clutch pack from original engine. Runs like a dream now. took 4 hrs to remove and reinstall the second time around (8 the first) worth it in the end. Here are some pics
     

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