No ready mode after replacing two battery modules

Sometimes the words crossthreaded and stripped get used interchangably.

 

Maybe too easy but did you press the start button twice? It must be pressed twice (with foot on brake) to get into ready mode the first start after disconnecting the 12V battery.

 

Hi Jessica, we had a similar problem, we replaced one cell/ module, car only starts when the12v is disconnected and connected. Also the fan is not running, we have to take a12 hour trip tomorrow morning. Would O'Rileys/ NAPA/ Pep Boys carry an OBD Scanner to use till we order the Cadillac from Amazon? We are in the SF bay area. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge

 

Hi bikeking19, Have similar problems after replacing one module. Had to disconnect and reconnect the batteries. Now or after the replacement the battery cooling fan is not working, do not know what to do?

 

Welcome to Prius Chat .

Some questions:

• How many miles on your Prius?
• Since the fan is not working, so you have the electronics for the fan reconnected?
• Did you just swap modules or charge and balance them?
• What code reader do you have?
• Have you had to perform this repair in the past?

Keep us posted .

 

What codes did you have previously before the battery cell replacement? Do you mean the car won’t start at all (no headlight no dash lights) or does it starts and you can’t get it into drive or reverse?

 

Just another experience:
Having the HV battery exchanged (with or without exchange of modules) the first time you start the Prius into "ready" you get the warning signals for engine etc.
If you switch off and try again all is fine (usually ;-)).

 

Thanks for your reply and the welcome Ray:
1.It is a 2004 Prius, possible that the previous owner had adjusted the mileage downwards when he replaced the display card. It had only 40,000 initially. We bought it in Miami on ebay, and I found out later that they are notorious in Miami for shoddy and shady deals. So far we have replaced the display card, water pump, hybrid battery, brakes, front bearings, also it is possible the brakes were not bled properly so the ABS light is on with the Red Battery light.
2. It appears that we have reconnected the connections, however this is our first repair by ourselves. Wondering if it is possible that the fan did not come on because we did not drive the car for a long time. It used to run continuously non-stop before the module was changed
3. We just swapped one module, do not know anything about balancing we have to learn this process
4. We have to get a code reader to read and clear the codes, we just have a cheap multi-meter for now
5, This is our first repair by ourselves (me and my son Mike)
We live in the SF Bay Area, would like to know if you have any reputable and reliable hybrid battery supplier in the area?

 

The car runs. However every time it stops, we cannot start, we have to disconnect the 12 v battery and reconnect. Presently we do not have a code reader, we just have a cheap multi-meter.

 

Can you text my tech support number 979-848-6868 so I can walk you through a couple things?

 

There are a couple of good shops in the area:

Arts Automotive in Berkeley
Luscious Garage in San Francisco

First step is to get the codes read.

You say you have a cheap multimeter, so what does the 12v show after sitting overnight?

If you are in a spot and want to make a run up to Fairfield on 680, I’m sure we could figure something out.

Keep us posted .

 

You more than likely have a P0AA6 with sub-codes that will point you to the HV battery, the transaxle/inverter or the A/C compressor.

Seeing as you have been into the battery, I'm guessing it is one or more leaking modules in the HV battery causing the HV isolation fault.

The fix for that is to locate the leaking module(s) and discard. Remove all other modules, clean and dry thoroughly. Clean the case and dry thoroughly. Replace the failed module(s) with suitably compatible module(s).

All these guesses and assumptions, of course, could be alleviated by having a suitable scan tool that can read all 11-14 ECUs your car has.

 

with a 12v impact drill .. like a milwaukee or bosch .. on the lowest motor setting setting when it hits the bottom 1 or 2 clicks and i stop .. its puuuurdy tight .. not 100inch pounds but way more than finger tight ...