It's time! 100k proactive maintenance

If removing the egr cooler, you’ll be pulling off the windshield wiper cowling, so I’d add spark plugs to the list.

You done a transaxle drain and fill yet?

Might be another good one to add to the list.

 

If doing a catch can and depending on where you want to mount it, it’s worth getting a couple of sections of fuel line versus the braided hose they give you as they kink or collapse easily under the conditions present:

As for plugs, I just changed our 2010’s out for the Denso iridium plugs:



So far, so good.

 

You don’t need a lift, all you need are 4 jack stands and a jack

 

Add check driver floormat.

 

Brake flush/lube pins. Coolants.

 

If you're just getting it for expected spillage: you can do all your proposed chores without spilling a drop. For throttle body removal, it is not necessary to disconnect coolant lines. For EGR cooler removal, IF you drain a couple of liters from the radiator (via the tap and spigot at bottom, driver's side) into a clean container, the coolant level in the system will drop below the EGR system. Just take care lifting out the cooler, there will be a little coolant at the lower back corner: lift it out without tilting, then pour it into your coolant catch container.

When you're done, and everything is reassembled, leave one top hose above the EGR cooler off, pour the coolant back into the reservoir, give large diameter coolant hoses an occasional squeeze to "burp" them, and as you're pouring coolant, slowly near the end, a little may start coming out of the "left off" hose. Quickly push that hose back on, and finish pouring back the drained coolant. The level in the reservoir will likely be a bit high, above top mark, but with a day or two driving, will work back down to regular level.

Consider brass bristle, and maybe an assortment of nylon bristle pipe cleaners, long handles, various diameters. Most anything will come in handy: I used things like the slim wicker stalk, a grab-it tool with a rag, whatever. For the small diameter EGR passages feeding into each intake, traditional pipe cleaners would likely be good.

Everybody gravitates to this? Don't care to blow another $100 for the Moroso, lol? In any event, get some decent hose, black rubber fuel line (3/8" ID) spec SAE-30R7 (or R6) is good. Also, you'll likely need some 3/8" brass hose barb splices. I put stainless steel screw clamps on all connections, but in hindsight I'm not sure they're need: those hose barbs in particular are very tenacious once you push the hoses on. I resorted to "blunting" the barbs a bit with file (and cleaning good, get rid of the brass filings). The barb splices and screw clamps are readily available at most hardware stores, and automotive specialty shops should stock fuel line, phone around or check online to verify.

Consider also your mounting strategy, bracket, location. It might be worthwhile to start with something temporary, just to see how it goes.

Anyone care to comment: chlorinated or no? CRC? Get two cans?

Good question. I did everything on your list without changing any gaskets, at only 72K kms though.

Get a set of Torx sockets: you'll need E8 for the studs on EGR, and if you want to remove the studs on the intake manifold for throttle body, E6. I'd say taking the latter off is good practice, if you're going to be handling the intake manifold a lot, avoids risk of bending them. You need 1/4" drive for both those.

A ratchetting 12 mm box wrench is not mandatory, but very handy for the back bolts on the EGR cooler. I got one with a swivel head as well, maybe not strictly necessary, but handy.

 

When I went through the above I had a 1/2" (not needed) and 3/8" (used) drive drive torque wrenches, and kind of wished I had a 1/4" drive torque wrench as well. The throttle body studs for example, are something like 44 inch/pounds (3.7 foot/lbs, dividing by 12). The studs on the EGR are 84 inch/pounds (7 foot/pounds).

I think a good rule of thumb: if your sockets are 1/4" (like the Torx), the torque values are likely in 1/4" torque wrench range.

Of course @NutzAboutBolts sails through without ever contemplating a torque wrench, just using common sense and experience.

A novice with with a torque wrench can be dangerous: there was one guy here who opted to use torque wrench on the spark plug coil hold down bolts (a little over the top from the get go), and mis-read inch/pounds as foot/pounds: got out the big ol' 1/2" torque wrench, and summarily snapped the head off one bolt, left the threaded portion in the valve cover. He got it out.

One more thought: sometimes it's just impossible to use a torque wrench: no room. Or you can use it for some of the bolts, but not all. I try to use it for for all of the more important bolts, and if it's that case where you can torque some but not all, at least you get a feel on the more accessible ones, then try to apply similar pressure on the harder to reach bolt, with whatever you can reach it with.

Anyway, there's some torque values in the attached:

 

I’m not sure any chlorinated brake cleaner exists (the CRC brake clean I buy is non-chlorinated).

When doing our 2010’s egr cooler this round (for the second time) I got harbor freight’s 1/4 drive set and it is handy along with a short E8 short socket as the long E8 won’t work in all locations.

Good luck with your project .

 

Ouch, hopefully you caught it in time. Do check it often.

 

Doh!! This is the car you just bought? Did you do the oil change?

This may point out my own mental instabilities, but even in my non-oil burning vehicles I pull the sticks at least once a week. I would start monitoring at least that often until the burn rate is verified with certainty. The distance between the hi-lo marks on the stick represents ~1.6 quarts. Perhaps you'll find it was simply under filled and isn't burning 1.5+ quarts in 3k. Regardless, if the burn rate is high, I'd personally expedite the EGR clean service. Good chance the cooler fouls quicker in oil burners.

 

Timely post! I'm about to start most of this stuff on our 2012 Prius v (wagon)...and after that our 2012 liftback. IF it ever warms up...back into the 30s here...and potential for snow....sigh.

Stuff already done on the 2012 v (wagon) can be seen via link in my signature below.

 

One thing I noticed, doing an oil change day before yesterday: the O-ring on the oil filter housing had jumped the proscribed groove, shifted back to the flange where it bottoms out. I still had no oil leak, but perhaps it would have been more possible if the O-ring had half-shifted, made a more uneven seal. Anyway, Public Service Announcement: put a GOOD dollop of new oil all right round the O-ring, as it's in position, directly before install of the housing. Oh, and double check you've got a filter in there...