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Car unable to go into ready mode.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Hach, Apr 3, 2018.

  1. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if the disconnect is disconnected, would the last sentence of the o/p make sense?
     
  2. Hach

    Hach Junior Member

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    Yea I disconnected and reconnected the orange plug a couple times just to make sure it was set right. It's just weird because I drove around all day after the work was done and stopped multiple times without any issue.
     
  3. Hach

    Hach Junior Member

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    here's the video. Not sure if you can hear it but when I push the brake i don't think it sounds right. Just get a short buzz instead of the longer buzz
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    maybe it is a bad actuator like beach mentioned.
     
  5. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    that's new to me, I have never had one run the radiator fan... are you sure the EVERYTHING is turned off?
    Id start pulling fuses to disable the radio, ac, door locks ect and try turning the car on after pulling the fuse, make sure its hooker up to a GOOD battery charger not a trickle or jump box... did I see an extra wire hooked to the positive terminal? are you running an Amp or something else?
    if you are remove it was the car wrecked or flooded?

    do any of the member think he could have a bad combo meter, I know when mine failed on the 08 it made the car do all kind of odd things but it always started, didnt turn off a few times but that's the fun of prius ownership
     
  6. Hach

    Hach Junior Member

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    Yea everything is off. There's some heavy dirt that got kicked up into the fuse box panel. Any chance it shorted something out? The extra cable is run to my light bar/CB radio (I'm a pilot car for oversize semis). I bought the car with a clean title so I'm assuming neither. The most damage I've done is backing up too far in a lot and denting the end of the muffler haha. I've decided to get another prius. Going down to TN hopefully Monday. Got approved for a 2011 with 65k miles on it
     
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Your video shows the combination meter display flickering which implies low voltage from the 12V battery. Rather than guess about its condition, use a digital multimeter to measure the voltage across the battery.
    2. You must keep all relay/fuse boxes totally clean and dry. Any dirt or moisture within will promote corrosion and cause problems.
    3. It would be helpful to have a current list of what diagnostic trouble codes are current.
    4. In the video, it appears that you were trying to assess the tightness of the battery cable connections. It would be better for you to use a 10 mm wrench and actually tighten all connections including the negative cable where it bolts to the body.
    5. You were concerned about how to tow the car if the front is parked against a curb? If you cannot get the gear selector into N, this also implies a failed 12V battery. However, I think that the tow truck can attach a cable to your car and use a winch to drag the car up onto the flatbed. Of course this process isn't great for the car...
    6. It is not wise to have your income stream solely dependent upon any car with 250K miles on the odometer. It is good you are looking at buying a newer vehicle. Good luck with that choice.
     
    #27 Patrick Wong, Apr 7, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2018
  8. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    some 2010's and 2011's have a problem with burning oil bad rings if I remember right.. and a low mile hybrid is not good as the battery hasn't been charged regularly ..
    you might want to consider a car that get mid 30's mpg... if you use it work you can write off the gas and miles anyway so there no advantage in a hybrid .. still not sure why you refuse to get the 12 volt battery tested as many of us have suggested to do..
     
  9. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    I think the flickering is just the video rate....
    many of us have told him to get the 12 tested at a parts store, he dosent want to do it for some reason so I give up.
     
  10. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    I kind of think, with 250,000 on the vehicle, maybe just getting something new is a good idea.

    I would consider expanding your vehicle choices/search potentially to perhaps newer but non-hybrid options.

    Best of Luck. Whatever you decide.
     
    #30 The Electric Me, Apr 7, 2018
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2018
  11. Hach

    Hach Junior Member

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    I took it to be tested today and its fine. Not sure why you're being so rude? It's hard to find a ride atm so I got it tested as soon as I could. I sleep in the car on the road so that's the reason hybrids are preferred. I can run it all night with heat or ac for next to nothing and no major issues doing it unlike a regular vehicle. In regards to using a vehicle over 250k miles, many of the pilot cars on the road are rolling with that or more. I was going to replace it last year but seeing how I never had a single issue I didn't. The flickering is the video not the display. I posted the last set of codes I had done. Only check engine light is on which is most likely because I had a universal cat instead of a oem installed.
     
  12. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    Speaking only for myself, I never meant any "rudeness".

    Reading the thread, it seemed you were playing "Whack-A-Mole" with numerous codes and problems. And you, yourself suggested you were going to simply look at getting another vehicle.

    I was only suggesting that perhaps expanding beyond Hybrid/Prius choices might be a good idea, if your budget is limited and long term reliability is a priority.
    But hey, this IS Prius Chat, if you now believe the problems are resolved, and want to continue on? More power to you.

    My opinion is, Prius have an excellent reputation for reliability. I also believe with enough money, time, skill, any machine can be repaired. But I also believe that 250,000 miles is a lot of miles for any vehicle.

    It's all your decision as to how you proceed.

    As ended my previous post, sincerely...best of luck, whatever you decide.
     
  13. Hach

    Hach Junior Member

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    Sorry man didn't mean you. I appreciate everyone's input. I'm just going to scrap it
     
  14. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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    Talk to Steve at:

    Prius hybrids sales and service Scottsburg Indiana

    before you scrap your 2007 Prius. He is great at diagnosing and repairing Gen2 Prii at a reasonable cost.

    JeffD
     
  15. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    You are a champ. I've been reading through every thread that had something to do with not going into read mode and you gave answer to the bit I missed.
    I replaced the timing chain in my 2008 Australian Prius and couldn't get it to go again. I missed the bit about pushing the orange HV plug down after inserting it. I still have the read triangle of doom and an square in the top left corner of the centre monitor display with an orange vehicle and a line through the middle - top to bottom. But at least it starts and selects a gear now. I'm hoping given time the error code thing will get over itself and all will go back to normal.
    This poor beast has over 700,000km on the clock but besides a crook CV joint it has gone brilliantly since we bought it a few yrs back. The timing chain just got extremely noisy so I stripped the engine down and replaced it.

    T1 Terry
     
  16. Beachbummm

    Beachbummm Senior Member

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    sometimes you have to clear the error code history before the warning lights go out.. sometimes they go off by themselves after a few starting cycles... if not you will have to disconnect the negative battery cable at the body for a few min's and see if that clears them..
     
  17. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    The triangle of doom and orange car with a line through it cleared by the end of the day so all good there. But it now appears the noise was not the timing chain as I'd thought. I'll have to find a chassis dyno so I can put it under load and trace the noise. Can't get it to make the noise standing still and no noise at light to medium throttle, heavy acceleration sounds just like a chain dragging against an alloy case ... but it could be something completely different. Definitely engine speed related.

    T1 Terry
     
  18. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

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    Been a while, I couldn't find where I posted this :lol:
    Noise turned out to be a partially blocked catalytic, the exhaust pressure was pushing the exhaust flange away from the manifold until the pressure released and then the pressure would build up again. So the noise was the metal to metal knock of the pipe hitting the manifold combined with the escaping exhaust gas under pressure.
    So I went through the major task of replacing the timing chain for nothing, but at least I know that bit will be good for another 700,000kms.
    I have since bought another Prius to add to the fleet. It was previously owned by another member here, Jason in Oz and it is a real credit to him, it just looks and goes so well.

    T1 Terry
     
  19. mfbaker

    mfbaker New Member

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    *** SOLVED won't go into READY problem! ***
    BACKGROUND

    My daughter's 2008 Prius with 178,000 miles has been experiencing excessive oil consumption (about a quart of oil every 400-500 miles) for more than a year, but seemed to run fine, no noticeable blue smoke or oil dripping underneath the car. After looking into it, I found that a bad PCV valve may cause this. There are a number of youtube how-to videos, and thought it was a reasonable DIY task. Since to get at the PCV the spark plugs were readily exposed, I also checked each cylinder's compression (ranged from about 139 - 151 psi). The spark plugs looked good, nice and tan.

    THE PROBLEM
    Also recommended was to try SeaFoam, adding the liquid to the oil crankcase, but also using the aerosol can, and squirting it into the air intake while the engine is idling. After getting every everything back together, except for replacing the the air cleaner housing, started the car and started the squirting. However, keeping a Prius idling is a problem if you are not moving. So I had my wife keep restarting it when the engine would stop after about 10 seconds, and did that about 10 times. But then, for some reason, the engine would no longer start! It would not shift into R or D, only N. I soon realized the the top display was no longer showing READY -- ARGH!

    THE SOLUTION!!! :)
    After trying literally 50+ ways to resolve this issue, I was sheepishly and reluctantly about to have it towed to a dealer.

    As a last-ditch effort, I tried disconnecting the battery, and let it stay disconnected for maybe a minute or two.
    The battery can be disconnected by removing the nut securing the battery under the hood inside the relay panel cover (flip back the red plastic tab to see it), and putting something insulated between the cable and the bolt. After doing so, wah-lah!! The READY light came back, and I was able to start the car!!! (y)

    Now, only time-will-tell if the PCV replacement did any good for the original problem, the high oil consumption... :unsure:
     
    #39 mfbaker, May 5, 2020
    Last edited: May 5, 2020
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  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    any sparks when you disconnected or reconnected?