Extra Charging cord

The Prime permits 8A draw, pg 123 owners manual. The charger is in the Prime. EVSE is on the wall. Have another glass of Cabernet Bisco.

 

understood, you are in a mood tonight. which one controls the draw?

 

The Prime permits 8A draw, pg 123 owners manual. Prime has charger which controls draw. Just trying to help the newbies with 9 different manuals in Japanese indecipherable English.

 

so if the charger controls the draw, it doesn't matter if you use a 16 amp evse on a 15 amp circuit.

 

Correct. I think we're getting to the bottom line here. The original thread asked for low cost options of 2 charging cords at 2 locations without a time constraint on charging time, without having to spend more money on hardware upgrades at his carport 15A circuit. The Prime solves the issue with just an 8A setting draw on the car software.

 

and even the 12a is fine if his circuit supports it.

 

I have not measured a cheapie EVSE 16A, only Toyota OEM. The Prime charger will draw 8A if that is what you set the car software. What I do know is if you have other draws on the same circuit, you may trip the 15A breaker, which is why I recommend the 8A setting in the Prime software. Each individual situation is unique. You cannot be assured of any unique electrical situation without proper evaluation by a qualified electrician.

 

I have a normal pair of 120V outlets in my driveway under the porch light that's there. I never gave the power rating any thought, and just plugged in the charger and charged the vehicle. Reading this thread, I decided to go out and look at the breaker and see what it's rated for. Turns out it's labeled "washer + light". I switched the breaker off and sure enough, the light went out. Ok, now for the power outlet.

I grabbed shop light and plugged it in, then shut off the breaker. Yup, that outlet is on the circuit, too!

So the plug I'm using to charge the car has a 15A breaker on it. I'm sure if I tried to do a load of wash while charging the car, it would trip the breaker, but by itself (with the LED porch light that draws something like 5W) it has not been a problem.

It takes a bit over 5 hours to charge from "empty", so it's running at full throttle for what it can draw, as far as I can tell.

 

My DuoSida is still going strong after more than a year. I got it from Ali-Baba for $165 delivered. I'm still pleased with the purchase and would buy it again. And it will run at either 120V or 240V. I ran a 240V box from a sub-panel in the garage to the carport where I park my Prime. 12/3 romex. easy-peasey.

 

What type of outlet did you use?


iPhone ?

 

i think you'll be fine with the cheap evse and 12amp setting. no harm if it trips the breaker, just switch it to 8 amps.
no reason it should though, unless you have other stuff on the circuit that's being used at the same time.

 

Modern construction has 20 amp receptacle circuits and 15 amp lighting circuits.

We need to confirm that the charger inside the car controls the amperage (I think it does).

We also need to be clear that these are not charging "cords." They are the EVSE, electric vehicle supply equipment or (portable) EV charging station, which are the special SAE J1772 plug, smart power supply, and special cable.

 

electroengineur can probably confirm it for us.

 

Quick warning. Do not use a reel while charching. It does not dissipate the heat and many cases of fires happened. Also i use a 14 gauge wire as extention. 16 gauge wire heats up a lot when charging at 12 amp.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Yes. The EVSE acts only as a concierge for the charging circuitry which is inside the vehicle. All the EVSE does is tell the vehicle's internal charging circuitry what the maximum amount of current the EVSE can provide and verify that the vehicle's charging circuitry wants to be connected to your premises wiring.

Here is a generic block diagram:



When plugged into the car, the EVSE receives a signal from the vehicle that the vehicle is ready to accept power. The EVSE then closes the contactors and allows power to flow (shown in red in the diagram above) from your house's premises wiring to the car's internal charger.

If you are using a 240-volt EVSE unit plugged into 240-volt wiring, 240-volts flow into your vehicle; if you are using a 120-volt EVSE unit plugged into 120-volt wiring, 120-volts flow into your vehicle. It's up to your vehicle to figure out which voltage is being supplied and to adjust its demands accordingly.

The EVSE also informs the vehicle of the maximum current which the EVSE can provide. The vehicle is then welcome to decided how much of that maximum which it wants. (Kind of like plugging in a lamp with a 15-watt bulb or one with a 150-watt bulb: the outlet doesn't care as long as it's not more than the premises wiring can supply without tripping the circuit breaker.)

The EVSE also contains a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) for purposes of safety.

When you plug the J1772 connector into your vehicle, here's what happens:

• the EVSE signals presence of AC input power
• vehicle detects plug via proximity circuit (this prevents the vehicle driving away while connected)
• control pilot functions begin
  • the EVSE detects the vehicle
  • the EVSE indicates to the vehicle that it's ready to supply energy
  • the EVSE informs the vehicle of the EVSE's maximum current capacity
• vehicle requests energy flow
• vehicle and EVSE continuously monitor continuity of safety ground
• charge continues as determined by the vehicle
  
• charge may be interrupted by disconnecting the plug from the vehicle

You can read more here.