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Engine shuts down after start-up

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Paul OByrne, Mar 22, 2018.

  1. Paul OByrne

    Paul OByrne Junior Member

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    I am having some trouble with my 2005 Prius. After leaving it sit idle for 5-6 weeks and then trying to start it, it was found totally drained of power. I suspect my caretaker left a light on when it was last used. Since then, the auxiliary battery has been charged and is holding at 12.6 volts. Now it will start up, and it acts normal with the engine firing up but after 10 seconds it shuts itself down and will not allow shifting into gear under just battery power. Also the check engine light and the master warning light come on right way on start-up, then the brake system warning light comes on also after engine shuts down.
    I have read through some threads and did not find this problem listed. I tried a cheap scan tool I have- it's called Fixd App and it came up with the following results and I would love some input to try to narrow down the true problem.
    The error codes pulled were: P3190 and P3191
    The info. from customer support on these codes is below:
    The most common cause of these codes is the 12 volt auxiliary starting battery has worn down, been disconnected, replaced and/or the hybrid control module has lost power. In this case the throttle body is commonly to blame – the vehicle’s main engine control module loses it’s learned position for the throttle and defaults back to the minimum opening. If you’ve got throttle body buildup or varnish (it only takes a little) the engine can die due to a lack of airflow. Instead of powering through with more throttle and a rough idle like other non-hybrid Toyotas, it simply goes to ready-off and sets the MIL. To correct this, try cleaning the throttle plate and bore of all buildup. Here’s a throttle with suspect varnish on the plate itself – don’t forget to clean the throttle when open too.

    Another common cause of P3191 and P3190 is a failed fuel pump, especially on 2001-2003 models. The pump simple doesn’t put out enough fuel to run the engine. The pump isn’t available separate from the fuel tank, so the entire tank must be replaced. The easiest place to tap into the fuel system is back by the passenger rear wheel as the fuel lines come off the tank – finding a suitable fitting to tap into in the engine bay is more difficult.
    So, has anyone come across this problem before and what was the fix in that case?
    Or from the suggestions above- what sounds most likely- and whats the best next step?
    Thanks for your input,
    Paul
     
    #1 Paul OByrne, Mar 22, 2018
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Every new Prius owner sooner or later gets tripped up mistaking a failure-to-start for a "started, ran for several seconds, then quit", just because the Prius motor/generator cranks the engine at an unusually high rpm (compared to other cars) while trying to start, so to most ears it sounds like it "started".

    Then when the computer gives up on cranking after several seconds, it sounds as if the engine had started for a little while, and then quit. It didn't, though. P3191 is the "engine does not start" code.

    Prius engines fail to start for the same reasons as any others: fuel, spark, or compression. The usual tests for those three things should turn up the cause.

    But try to make sure that every time you try cranking, you are actively checking one of those things so that you'll get useful information from each attempt. Cranking uses some charge from the HV battery on each attempt, so you only get so many shots.

    Do you have a way to read your battery's state of charge at the moment? How is it?

    -Chap
     
    #2 ChapmanF, Mar 22, 2018
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  3. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Yes you only get so many shots. If you kill the hybrid battery it $$$ to get it charged and or repaired.

    It is important to your wallet you make the right moves to get it started. That requires harvesting all the codes the car is throwing especially any hybrid codes which I doubt your code reader is seeing before you try starting the car again.

    I don’t know how computer savvy you are. And if you have a laptop. Best bet is buy a DXDIAG at Amazon.
    Have it overnighted and hook it to your laptop and it will harvest all the codes. It’s a very good tool.
    It can do full diagnostics on your hybrid battery which you are going to need sooner or later.

    Buy the Toyota TIS TECHSTREAM model. That has the factory Service software. Post all codes with there subset back here,
     
    #3 edthefox5, Mar 23, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2018
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  4. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    What part of Tampa are you in?

    @ChapmanF and @edthefox5 are correct. You don't want to keep running down the HV battery. There is no "12 volt auxiliary starting battery". There is a 12 volt auxiliary battery. The HV battery does the starting and if it gets too low, you'll need special equipment to bring it back up.

    If your HV battery level indicator is still in the blue on your MFD, you can try to get it started without a grid charge, but it gets pretty risky if it's already down in the purple, so make sure you find out why it's not starting with a minimum of failures.

    If it's already too low, you'll need a grid charge before proceeding. Perhaps Todd at Home - Tampa Hybrids Inc. can help if you can get the car towed. He's really good.
     
    #4 jerrymildred, Mar 23, 2018
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  5. Paul OByrne

    Paul OByrne Junior Member

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    Thanks guys, good info. I shall order the scanner. I'm surprised to hear that it didn't actually start and that was just the car trying to start for 10 seconds? Wow. I'm sure that does put a drain on the system/ battery. Wish I knew sooner.
    Yesterday, I actually drove it during that start-up phase, thinking if I got it running down the road it would charge itself. I didn't get very far. So, it was simply running off the HW? I'm sure that didn't help.
    I'm located actually in Thonotosassa- NE of Tampa,
    So, best to sit tight until I get better diagnostics from better scanner?
    Thanks again.
     
    #5 Paul OByrne, Mar 23, 2018
  6. paprius4030

    paprius4030 My first Prius

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    Hey guys if he actually drove it doesn't that mean the ICE started? You can't drive it until the READY light comes on, right? And the READY light only comes on if the ICE is running, right?
     
    #6 paprius4030, Mar 23, 2018
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I routinely pull out of my driveway and partway down the block between the time my READY light comes on and the time my engine even begins trying to start. Gen 3 works that way, anyway.

    -Chap

    p.s. I think the J2534 dongle mentioned upthread may be the VxDiag, not dxdiag.
     
    #7 ChapmanF, Mar 23, 2018
  8. paprius4030

    paprius4030 My first Prius

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    WOW I didn't think you could shift it out of park until the ready light comes on. Learn something new everyday LOL.
     
    #8 paprius4030, Mar 23, 2018
  9. paprius4030

    paprius4030 My first Prius

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    I'm sorry I'm getting old. Of course the Ready light comes on first and the ICE second after awhile. Forget all my previous posts. Sorry.:confused:o_O:oops::eek::confused:
     
    #9 paprius4030, Mar 23, 2018
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  10. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Thanks for the humor. Good way to end the day. :LOL:(y)
     
    #10 jerrymildred, Mar 23, 2018
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