2007 Brake Actuator Failure

Here is a general question to everyone. Isn't it possible to repair or stop a leaky abs actuator, since they have internal kinda valves that regulates the hydraulic lines, instead of replacing the whole assembly?

 

No I did not, however my pump was malfunctioning and was constantly running due to not holding it's pressure. Soooo, I think reducing pressure would be a good idea in most cases.

My memory is a little foggy, but after I did the install I;
-Turned on the car and checked the brakes. The Pedal was very hard and I had several lights come on including the brake light warning/VSC/ABS. (I don't remember what the codes were exactly, but I pretty sure they had something to do with the ABS/VSC) The brakes barely worked at this point.
-Disconnected Battery (both Positive and Negative)
-Did a brake bleed on all four brakes. This is where the pressure was very high when I opened the first bleeder valve so do this SLOWLY.
-Connected OBD Gen II pins #4 & #13 and reconnected the battery. (Note: PLEASE be certain you are jumping the right pins so you don't blow any fuses.)
-Cleared the codes by pressing brakes 8 times in 5 seconds. I can't remember exactly, but I think the brakes were still not functioning properly at this point. The pedal was still very hard to press.
-Disconnected the battery again and performed a brake bleed again.
-Clear the codes again by jumping the pins and hitting the brakes again.

I think I did this procedure about 3 times with my son. I kept having to pull the wheels off to get to the Calipers to bleed the brakes. I also had a OBD Reader Tool (Blue Light) with the capability to also reset the VSC & ABS lights. I believe I did use this as well at some point, but I don't think it had made a difference which way I cleared the codes.
After the 3rd time, the brakes were normal and all the lights were off. I am not sure, but I suspected air in the Brake Pump was causing some of the ABS/VSC codes. I do recall seeing a little air in the system as I bled it.

I believe I read somewhere that a Zero Point Calibration and a Linear Solenoid Valve Offset might have been necessary, but for me, this was not so. If the ABS/VSC lights persist that might be your next hurdle. READ YOUR CEL's! Make sure you are addressing the right problem before the next step. The Calibration and Valve Offset can be done at home WITHOUT Techstream by jumping OBD Gen II Pins #4 & #12. It was VERY EASY. I may do a video on the procedure that is Prius specific.
Mr. Proclaimliberty2000 has a general video on this which is informative and sheds some light on a way to get around Techstream to a Zero Point Calibration (

). This video might be irrelevant to most, BUT it does demonstrate how to place your Toyota in TEST MODE.
TEST MODE is how to set the Linear Solenoid Valve Offset. I found a write up on it ( https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Toyota-Highlander-6-2001-06/Anti-Lock-Brake-System/Linear-Valve-Offset-Learning/_/P-0996b43f8025f09b ).
I have performed these procedures in the past after fixing up a 2005 Prius that got blasted in the rear where the Power Brake Control Box & Battery are located. Prior to performing these procedures I have error codes that called for a Zero Point calibration. It was very easy. I have fixed numerous problems with my Prii and saved thousands. Do your research and do it yourself. In my case, both my cars were wrecks and I had nothing to lose.

I have included a diagram of the OBD II. Please note the shape of the connector so that you are using the right pins. GOOD LUCK.

 

I believe it would not be feasible. You would have to diagnose the thing, spend a day taking it out, a day trying to figure out which valve went bad, fix it, then put it back in only to find out it wasn't done right (leading to a lot of cursing and hair pulling and throwing of your cherished Snap On tools). As I stated in this post, I did my own replacement. I was curious about it as you are. So, I disassembled the unit to look and see if there was anything worth salvaging.
The Brake Pump actuator has an electronic connector with MANY Pins. The pins run through a chunk of aluminum which is milled and drilled in many many ways. I think there were 6-7 brake lines that went into that thing. The DOT Fluid runs through a series of channels with electric valves, I think I counted 11 in all. I could see tiny sensors located all round the thing. I believe the Valves produced that clicking noise you hear when you power up the car. Attached to the block aluminum is a small cylindrical pump. It makes a noise as well, especially when one of the bearings in it or something in it goes bad. It has some gaskets and rings in the area where the pump is attached to the block. I thought one of the magnetic valves went bad because I kept burning through brake pads in only one wheel and the pump was constantly running. It really sounded bad and got worse over 4 months of driving.
That thing was a bitch to take apart. And forget removing the Valves or the Pump, they were extremely difficult to work on. The pump felt like it was welded in there, and the Valves had some very fragile wiring that was tough to take apart without damaging it. Not to mention DOT brake oil all over the thing.
When I was looking to purchase a new Actuator Pump, I believe I saw two model numbers that fit the same car. I think the older one was the one that went bad all the time. Which was replaced by the other model number, which was the improved version. But I'm not certain about that, If someone else can confirm this please chime in.... This would have been a VERY expensive recall item I believe.
I ultimately took the cheaper route and bought an Actuator pump from a newer wreck that had low miles and performed the repair at home. It's still a bit noisy but works great.

 

I have the same issue. Luckily no accident. I already replaced all the 12 volt battery and the hybrid and some coolant pump. I also had to get a new key fab. Very frustrating. I hope everyone reports this issue to the NHSTA. This is a safety issue and the more that are reported the better changes of having it handled as a recall. I am tired of Toyota doing these extended warranties. It is ignoring true safety issues. Oh sorry you didn't have it fail before the deadline, oh sorry you did not get notice, oh sorry this lights not on......anything to only pay for small percentage of the consumers repairs.

 

I just found out the noise I've been hearing the past 2 years is my faulty break actuator. I just thought it was a noise that an older car with some milage on it made so nothing made me wonder, I did see lights go off in the morning but within seconds they turned off so again wasn't aware of the issue until last month when ai started my car put in reverse and my car just rolled out of the driveway into the road. I've called Toyota and gone to the dealership whom told me about the extended warranty and claim its my respnsobility to have known about. They told me repairs are $3400 plus anything else they find once getting into it. I just replaced my hybrid battery two weeks prior for $2812 and now I'm bummed. I don't have another 3k to dump into this car. Toyota told me it's a safety issue they're aware about and that I should not drive my car, however they're not offering any solution other than $3400 + for repairs. It does look like I can get an after market part for about $300 but I don't feel comfortable fixing it myself and don't want to trust a "Craigslist mechanic" Toyota knows of the damager/safety issue and they just want to sweep the issue under the rug. I filed a complaint with safercar .gov hope others do too so this turns into a recall. I'll create a YouTube video this week about this issue hopefully we can capture more complaints. Just like the odometer chip that went out I wasn't aware of it and missed out on the warranty replacement by a few months costing my $600. I will not buy another Toyota they should stand by their product. I don't have a choice but to drive a dangerous car i cannot afford to fix. Shame on Toyota!

 

Michael, any updates? I am in the same boat with ABS actuator failing car rolls off in reverse due to ABS Issue. Luckily I have flat surface where I park but now hearing long beeping more frequently after start indicating ABS issue.

I am also not willing to throw down $3400 in repairs without knowing how long I will keep driving.

 

This just happened to us. $2500 to replace brake actuator on 2007 Prius. 260,000 miles. I think I have to junk it.

 

$100 part used and few hundred labor = pretty cheap repair.

 

Our's was making the barking noise back in March but it went away before we got home from a 1600 mile trip. Anyone else have a self-healing brake actuator? Can't help but think it will fail soon anyway. Would like a Subaru Outback or Forester but would find it hard to visit the gas station more often, though forgoing such a costly brake repair would buy a LOT of gasoline! I also would very much like to double the ground clearance underneath...

 

If you go looking for a used part, here are the replacement part numbers:
2004-05 - 04003-44347
2006-09 - 04003-44647

 

You said that you wished you had spent the extra $700 for a new part. Could you explain why since you also stated that the old part works well?
Thank You.

 

Been coming to this site for answers to many problems I've experienced w/my '07 Prius Touring. I finally created an account to share that:
I am grateful and appreciate all the input, time, and energy y'all invest on here (and elsewhere). Collaboration is key.

I had a 97 Civic HX that was "killed" when somebody rear-ended me and then I bought my used Prius (off CList) in Dec 2016.
The lady wanted $3800, but the car had front right damage, many dings and things, so we agreed on $3,000. Ever since I bought the darn thing it would make this weird eeehhh, eeerrrgg, "barking" sound EVERY TIME I start it and even after I turned it off. EMBARRASSING! But I let it be...(since I didn't know about the warranty extension) BIG MISTAKE!

Fast fwd to yesterday Sept 26 '19 at 11am on my way to school (CSULB).. the darn thing started with a high pitched sound and brakes gave out while DRIVING ON THE FWY! I panicked but managed to slow down and hit the e-brake which didn't help much (time to fix that too).
I noticed the small BRAKE red light remained on... so I went to YTube and typed "why does prius make constant noise when off?"
Right away I learned about the abs brake pump going bad. Once on campus, I spent 2 hours researching this issue going from
$3000 at the dealer
to $600 at a shop in Costa Mesa
to $65 for used part Pick Your Part (Anaheim) plus labor (using an inexpensive mechanic). He agreed to assist today Friday. He bailed.

I'm now at Sam's Auto Hybrid (map it) in Costa Mesa, forking over $600 for part/installation/labor... Im guessing involves bleeding brakes.
*Summer 2018 I had the hybrid battery swapped for $600 with 2 year warranty (still working). He's the cheapest and quite reliable in O.C.

Had I gone the $65+mechanic labor route, my guess is I would've paid about $200-250 total, but I prob wouldn't feel as confident.

Note: for my 2007 Prius everything point to Part# 44510-47050
*The "upgraded" part was $1,000 avail as new only.

As soon as you hear that weird, constant noise, take action... so it's safer and cheaper. Now onto fixing that P0171 issue...

 

I feel like I need to stress that when this brake actuator goes out in a bad way you practically have no brakes. And I'm not kidding. you could be traveling only 30 miles an hour and it might take you a quarter mile to stop. it's not like somebody turned off the power brakes on a normal car and you have to push extra hard this is like you are pushing as hard as you physically can and you're a strong person. And it feels like it's doing nothing. Eventually you will slow down and stop a long time after you rear-end someone. Hopefully your parking brake works but not too good to cause you to do a rear wheel skid and lose control.

It happened to me on a downward mostly blind Hill when a car stopped in front of me. I laid on my horn in a slow-motion disaster while everybody was only going 20 miles an hour. The car in front of me was stopped for no reason just to check out the flowers or something. The oncoming car politely pulled over and made room so I could use the oncoming lane and avoided running into anyone.

 

Did you get any warning of it's failure? Dash lights? These things tend to gradually fail, it's usually not an immediate thing

 

What is that initial sound that we hear in the beginning of the video? My car does that but it works fine for the last two years.

 

Mine does the same, when i ask the dealer they just said that the noise is normal and i must just have never heard it before. This was right before the recall ended so hopefully he is "right" but so far so good.