I had been absent here for six yearsmy 2012 made it 140k miles without a problem. Still on the original brakes, no transmission fluid change yet. Just regularly tire rotation and oil changes. My 12 still working as new. I decided to clean up the IM anyway. It’s not that bad at all to cause problems. 74B3E7D1-650E-413F-91DC-39A78CB500CE by ray6088 posted Mar 5, 2018 at 9:51 PM 4BB3A636-20E2-403C-98CF-C9FF85FF4E7A by ray6088 posted Mar 5, 2018 at 9:50 PM . Pictures were taken before cleaning
It was mid-30 mpg last winter it is definitely somethings wrong. The mileage is getting better once the weather warms up but it is still at low 40 mpg. Last week, I decided to clean the EGR cooler and adding Oil Catch Can. It is much improvement and now getting 50ish mpg and 45 mpg with 78 mph speed. The EGR cooler is full of soot. I'm going to do more PM this weekend once the weather warms up, transmission fluid changes, spark plugs change, coolants change. One thing I don't like the hose comes with the Oil Catch Can I don't think it can handle the negative pressure. BTW I changed PCV also while installing OCC. It is mystery about the blow head gasket, but my throttle body seems to be dry and clean. Especially thanks for Nutz and Bolts videos makes my PM much easier and thanks for all PC'ers.
High combustion temps caused by the blocked EGR path is widely believed to be what takes out the head gasket, at least among PC-ers with an awareness of the issue. At 140k, you've likely just given yourself some insurance of not becoming another blown HG statistic, and it's probably good you didn't let it go any longer. 150k-175k or so miles is a popular HG failure mileage with the turd gen.
HG failure is scared me and my son has another 2012 Prius with low mileage. Just bought another 2018 HyCam for wife. Hopefully Toyota won't let me down.
Automotive specialty stores should stock black rubber fuel hose, spec SAE-30R6 or SAE-30R7, for maybe $1.50 per foot. The latter is what was supplied with my Moroso 85474, I think they know their stuff. I did the intake manifold, EGR circuit and OCC install at 72K kilometers, and didn't notice any improvement in mpg. I would chalk that up to early intervention though. Our lifetime mpg is 48, and it's pretty steady. Rolling on 17" Michelin Pilots 7~8 months and snow tires the rest, knocks it down a bit. No time like the present. My 2 cents, the optimum time to do this would be at the one year mark, any time you've got over 10K miles on the car. Then subsequent changes few and far between will do.
The cold weather really hurts the mpgand my permit wife hurts more on the prius Next time I clean the intake manifold, I will install 12V 2 way valve to dump the OCC blow by, so I can install OCC right underneath PCV. It will be hidden OCC no one notify is there with remote 12V switch. Just put plastic oil pan under the car then hold the switch, the OCC fluid with dump underneath
The Moroso Oil-Air Separator 85474 is good in that regard: has a tap on the bottom. That's the way I went, mounted that model atop the lower cross beam. Note that beam will flex if you are raising the front end with a floor jack, the front jacking point is the underside of that beam. You wan't to make the mounting flexible, with rubber washers or whatever. Once the intake mainifold, air intake and filter housing are installed, you see nothing.
Thanks Mendel Showing OCC recommendations. I don't catch any oil beside mostly water and little light brown blow-by. I don't think OCC will solve the fault engine but it reduces oil back to cylinders. I think we need someone comparing the 2010/2011 oil ring vs 2012-2015. My 2012 is working good and strong with 140K miles. We use same oil 5w20, I don't think the viscosity of oil is the factor. Wish all of us make it to the 300K club.
Geez, I've been buying bulk 5W20, it's the spec for another family member's vehicle (dirt cheap at $2.80 a liter last time), and keep toying with the idea of switching the prius to it. Any thoughts?
The viscosity of oil is based on manufacturing design and testing. It is hard to predict how the oil flows at extreme weather. I will use based on manufacture recommended. Don't want the oil oxidize cause sludge buildup, always use top quality. Cheap insurance
Yeah up to now for mine it's been Toyota 0W20, every six months or 8000 kms, and it's always months first, lucky if it even goes 5000. OTOH, around the globe the Owner's Manuals do vary: Australia in particular, while I think it recommends 0W20, it also includes pretty much the full gamut of weights, in a traditional looking oil for temperature chart.